I can't answer if the switches on the 04's light up or not, have an 02 and they do light up.
I can tell you if they do light up they will have non-replaceable LEDs in them and therefore will not be listed in the manual under "light bulbs"
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John & Terry 
"His" - 2002 Inferno Red Touring Edition
"Hers" - 2003 Electric Blue Limited Edition
Del Val PT Cruisers
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