AHHHHHH, nice to be home again! Thanks to those who responded[8D]
Yes, I did the install, took me a few days because I wanted to do it right. I had the WGA off and on 3 times to get it to fit properly. At least on my car the WGA was rubbing the steel support plate that supports between the back of the block and the intake manifold. You'll need to mount the WGA, mark where it rubs the plate, then remove WGA and grind a crescent shaped relief in the support plate. You'll also need to relieve the heat-shield where the WGA arm touches...it's in the same area as the factory relief for the factory WGA-arm, just grind it back about 3/8 inch. If I had to do it all over again it would be MUCH easier to buy a new intake gasket and remove the intake to allow access to the heat shield. I did get the heat shield off the car with the manifold in place but it took alot of swearing and time and I had to remove most wires/hoses/throttle cables from the manifold to do it anyway.
As far as adjusting the WGA, I used anti-sieze on the WGA adjustment threads to keep the heat from siezing-up the adjusting rod over a period of time. Initial adjustment was one full turn past taking up the slack. After test-driving it I added one more full turn to bring the boost up to about 13.5 lbs. From there you will use an aftermarket MBC or EBC to adjust the boost to where you want it. BTW, purchase your AGP billet WGA from Tommy...he is the man[^]and the ONLY one you can get these from for now. THANKS TOMMY[?]
Greddy Profec B Spec II:
The hardest part about the install was figuring out where to place the controller and where to drill holes in the firewall. I ended up installing the controller in the pocket just below the radio although now I kind of wish I had installed in on the dash so I could see it better while programming or driving. I had placed it down below because I did not want it visible from outside the car incase someone wanted it more than I do[:0] I had also purchased the remote switch (both the main unit and remote came from Hector at Exhaust Depot)and installed that on the left side of the steering wheel so I can switch between Lo/High boost with my left hand while power-shifting with my right hand. Two hole need to be drilled in the firewall...one drilled right next to the hood release cable for the wiring to the controller solenoid and one close to the controller. You'll need to run a vacuum line from the controller to a vacuum source off the intake manifold, I Tee-d into the brake-booster line. On my 03 5-spd. there is a circular cut in the fire-wall sound-deadening insulation (cabin side of firewall)just to the right of the throttle cable. I drilled a hole dead-center there to run my vacuum line and a 1/2" hole on the drivers-side of the pocket under the radio. I mounted the selonoid off a factory L-bracket that already has a hole in it. The factory bracket appears to have no purpose on the stick-cars...it's just to the right and just above the fill-hole for the brake-fluid cap.
I do not have the initial settings nor the install instructions from Hector with me at the moment (they are in my shop). I'll report on those within the next day or two. Hector said to follow his install instructions and not to follow the instructions that come from Greddy!
More to come soon...
Deen
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GT, 5-Spd, K&N filter, Stage I, AGP 3147 Big Turbo, DTEC Fuel Kit, Tial WGA, Greddy Profec EBC, DCR 55mm TB, 05 Plastic Manifold, 180 Deg. Stat, CCA FMIC, AMX hard-pipes, Water-Injection, STS shifter, Needswings 3\" DP w/dump and Borla Cat-back, BG Drop Springs, Eibach Sway Bars, Panther alloys & Eagle F1 Max-Performance Tires. Best run to date...12.93 @113.45MPH.
77 Blown Vette-runs 10\'s @ 136 MPH.
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