Quote:
quote:Originally posted by Quadrajet
So the equation does not factor in the amount of usable torque generated by the engine? It seemed to me that the turbo (which generates about 100# more torque than the normal motor) would be able to pull more weight - yet Chrysler says 1000# max regardless of engine output.
So confusing [:I]
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Yes- the fact that DC has a BLANKET statement (1000 pounds regardless) indicates to me that its a BALL PARK measurement ONLY! Think about this- if I have 4, 200 pound people in the PT, could I still tow 1000 pounds? NO WAY!, regardless of torque. Does the owner's manual reference that? Again, no. So that 1000 blanket statement is subject to scrutiny.
The turbo's issue is not the torque, its the increase in HEAT that the engine will have to dissipate by having the turbo on all the time. Most turbo's (passenger vehicles, non-commercial) usually have a "DO NOT TOW WITH THIS VEHICLE" in their manual.
Another thing with th turbo- do indeed let the engine run a few moments after coming to a stop- if you shut down immediately, the oil pressure drops and the turbo may actually still be spooling down, WITHOUT OIL! Many trucks (dual turbos) and their young drivers make this mistake by shutting down at the coffee shop with the turbo still spooling at 90,000 RPM! clunk.
Another thing to consider, sorry to confuse, is the GAWR (gross axle weight rating), rear, when towing. The PT weighs 3100 for example. Assume that there is a 55/45% weight distribution. This would mean that the rear axle has 1395 pounds. If the trailer tongue weight is 100 pounds, you now have 1500+ pounds on the rear axle (the calc is MORE than just 1395 + 100 due to the fulcrum effect, the trailer ball isn't exactly on top of the rear axle, rather 2 feet back, and you have leverage).
Now- what is the GAWR for the PT? Watch that too. Don't forget to add gas, and luggage too!
Confusing? Yes, it is. Wait till you get into FRONTAL AREA, BRAKING, and ....
Trailer lights- using the powered converter. My thoughts are it is overkill, and expensive. But prudent I guess. Most trailer have maybe 6 running lights, 2-3 stop lights, certainly the standard wiring and fuses can handle the extra draw. As well, that cct is fused so if there is a prob, that is the fuse the goes. I have never used one of those, they are close to $50 here, the standard connector is $20 with the converter (4 to 3 wire) built in. Your call, I have never had issues with the standard wiring on either van (2), PT, wife's car, ... and I pull a Coleman trailer with the van with extra lights. I am not saying that its not a good idea, rather, for me, an un-necessary one.
Cruise on..