I really think having both Vac and Boost is important to be able to note total engine performance, as well as helping to get decent gas mileage when you want it.
It's nice, but not a need...
As for my current settings:
MBC@8PSI mash from a stop: instant 8psi builds up to 14psi and drops to 12,11,finally holding at 11psi til around redline.
MBC@8PSI mash from 60-65mph: spikes to 15psi and quickly drops to 8 building up to and holding around 11psi
At higher rpms boost tends to be consumed up by the motor and the bov.
So far at this setting I seem to be ok with no codes.
Interesting thing though is that when reset by battery disconnect the car drives totally different for about 20 miles.
Without changing the boost controller it will spike past 15psi.
Wide open will shoot straight to 14psi and act kinda sporatic.
This PT computer is screwing us on the power and the shifts, you can feel there is a whole lot more power to be had as sometimes it doesn't seem to catch it fast enough and lets it rip really good then pulls power. Watching the combo guage really shows this.
Auto-stick(red-line) mode with trac control off seems best for me so far. No need to push the stick up as it shifts right on the money and drops you back in the right rpm spot with at least 10psi.
More later...
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2003 PTCruiser GT
Mods:!Airbox silencers
K&N Filter(2153)
Autometer Pod - Boost/Vac and Volts
Hallman ES Boost Controller running 12PSI steady 14PSI peak
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