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Old 13 May 2003, 08:56 pm
Exhaust Depot Exhaust Depot is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Ft.Lauderdale, FL.
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When installing a boost controller, you want to hook it up as follows:

Remove the hose from the wastegate dashpot. Plug that hose up using a bic pen cap or what ever you can find. Take another hose, run it directly to the WG and into your boost controller. Take the pressure source off your brake booster hose or you can tap into the line comin goff the turbo. There are two lines coming off the turbo (besides the wg one). Use the one that sits higher up, NOT the lower one which connects to the stock boost controller solenoid. Beleive it or not, but there is a feedback circuit in the stock solenoid! It knows if you play with boost if you T off that line so make sure not to T off the lower line.

If you also want to hold boost to redline and want to also prevent oscillation of the boost, you can plug up the line that goes to the stock Surge valve. or place a check valve inline so it always has positive pressure in it. The stock surge valve works as a pop off valve. If it sees to much boost, it opens up. So this surge valve along with the stock solenoid, cause your boost readings to fluctuate.

The turbine housing on our turbos is pretty small. Thats what causes the turbo to spool up so quick and at times cause boost spike. Especially on a stick shift if you get on the gas in a low 2k RPM on the Tach.


Also, go to my srt/ gt cruiser section on my site and look up the E.D. Spring mod. It will help you hold boost up to redline.

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E.D. 3\" Turbo Back, , HKS SSBOV, GReddy-e01 Boost controller, Greddy E-manage fuel management, Blitz Turbo Timer, JE pistons, Ported Head, E.D. Large Frontmount Intercooler, E.D. Tubular manifold with t3/t4 (prototype), IPP coilovers, Limited Slip.
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