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I'm almost certain that the 'Left front speaker' wire in the harness is somehow wired to a crossover or is eventually split and resistors are used for the tweeters and the woofers,
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Yup, no resistors though.
The "crossover" is a 10uf cap. The "front" on the harness goes first to the door speakers, then to the tweets in the dash with the cap in series. This makes the set "component" by definition LOL. It presents a 4 ohm impedance as anything above the xover point goes to the tweets, while anything below goes to the woofers in the door. If those pioneers are a coax set with a tweeter on it, you won't hear the tweeter at all as those freqs are going to the dash speakers.
Maybe we can get you into the SQ scene. I would not even consider using any head unit power to run anything but stock speakers.
Some advice if you'll listen - probably a bit advanced for a self-confessed noob, but maybe it'll help and maybe someone someday will take something from it.: Lose the rear speakers, they add nothing to your sound. They exist only for the rear seat passengers and screw up the front soundstage/imaging.
Open the dash pad and remove the tweeters. Dremel out some of the plastics and the mounts for the old tweeter and you'll be left with a hole big enough for a 3.5" mid. Run new wires up there. Find a spot to mount tweeters (such as the sail panels or the kick panels, or even in the air vents). Run wires and mount the tweeters. Now you have a 3way front soundstage. Put midbass on the door speakers (which will handle a 6.75 or 7 inch woofer), midrange on the dash speakers, and highs on your tweeters. Get the levels right and RTA the sucker. Now your system will sing. Of course this requires 6 channels of amplification, and either an intimate electronics background to understand the passive filters you'll need, or an active head unit like the Pioneer 800 or 880PRS, or an active crossover. You'll need a sub before too long...
Good sounding audio is a lot of work - but its completely worth it!
Remember the goal of audio is to reproduce the sound of the recording as the artist intended. Not to be loud, annoying, or to be played as loud as mechanically possible.