Every time I pull my moisture barrier out - I lose a little bit more of that gooey, icky, stringy black gunk. I've not put any sound dampening in place, but from what I've read it may be best to just lose the moisture barrier and replace it with more dynamat. Some folks glass the whole thing in which is probably the best thing to do.
Whatever you do - make sure that the back end of your speakers are covered (at least on the top), with a baffle. I could never get the moisture barrier to go back on right, so I just cut it. Big mistake, lost a right speaker that way to water. You will likely never be rid of water intrusion, esp if you live in the subtropics like I do.
The inside of the door is quite wet, so keep that in mind too if you need to build trim rings. Plywood swells unevenly, I learned that the hardway. MDF swells and disintegrates.
As for resealing it, I used either "Mechanics friend", or simple RTV, but the black 3m weatherstrip is very nice and built for the job.
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Well, I was under the impression that when you peel the moisture barrier back that the adhesive would stick to the metal rather than the barrier.
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It sticks to both.
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but as I saw somewhere on the forum, the PT seems to be eating mid-bass.
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Dynamat will help, if you actually get the doors sealed up (like with fiberglass or lexan/epoxy, etc), that is supposed to make a dramatic improvement.
Better/louder/deeper/more power door speakers will only help up to a point, when the door rattles start to win. Then you really need to work on things like driver selection, crossover points, amp power and headroom.