Quote:
quote:Originally posted by PTGT Redman
Heya.
have the boost gauge and pyrometer (the kits that come with wiring, probes and stuff). Have the general concept of how they hook up. Issue is with execution and wiring. I have heard some refer to a fuse tap rather than splicing wires, can someone please elucidate this issue. Also, if i look at the fuse box diagram, i need a constant 12v source for the boost gauge, can someone recommend a tap in. i have a 5spd, and there is no fuse 16 for a/s ignition. thx.
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The fuse tap is a small/flat copper piece that slides under one leg of the fuse, and extends to the top of the fuse where it terminates in a small male spade lug. I got mine at Advanced Auto parts. Most parts stores should carry them. They are for the Mini Fuse, and the package is labeled Mini Fuse Power Tap; Conduct-Tite! part number 85601 - 4 to a package.
The fuse box has 20 fuses; 5 rows of 4. The top of the fuse is the "feed" point, the bottom is the "load" point. To take advantage of the fuse in the fuse box, you should tap onto the bottom of the fuse.
Top row - Fuses 1 through 4: Fuses 1,2 and 3 are Fused B+; constant hot. They are "ganged" together; fed by the same source. Fuse 4 is a separate B+ source (Constant HOT)
2nd Row - Fuses 5 through 8: Fuses 5, 6 and 7 are Fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN). They are "ganged" together; fed by the same source. Fuse 8 is a Fused Headlight Relay Output.
3rd Row - Fuses 9 through 12: All 4 are Fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN-START). They are "ganged" together; fed by the same source.
4th Row - Fuses 13 through 16: Fuse 13 is a separate B+ Source Constant HOT). Fuses 14 and 15 are ganged together and are Fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN-ACC). Fuse 16 is a separate B+ Source (Constant HOT).
5th Row - Fuses 17 through 20: Fuse 17 is a separate B+ Source Constant HOT). Fuse 18 is Fused Rear Window Defogger Switch Output. Fuses 19 and 20 are Fused Low Beam Outputs.
At the top of the fuse panel are slots for 2 circuit breakers (CB). CB1 is not active. CB2 is a fused Ignition Switch Output (RUN)
At the bottom of the fuse box are 3 relay sockets A - C. A (on the lower left) is the Headlamp Relay. B (on the lower right) is the Heated Seat Relay (If Equipped). C (at very bottom - Center) is a Spare, and is not active.
Confirm these with a test light to be sure. If you want to have the maximum room to work with the fuse panel, swing down the panel below the steering wheel, remove the 2 screws on the left side of the opening and remove the left panel (that covers the fuse panel) by pulling it out and slightly up at the same time. Then remove the 2 screws holding the fuse panel to be able to get to both front and back. If you decide to take this route, do so after confirming which fuse/circuit you will use, remove the negative battery connector. This will prevent shorting and arcing to the metal framework if the back of the fuse panel comes in contact while working with it. It also prevents getting the front panel (Knee Bolster) scratched when trying to pull the fuse panel out enough to see the back side.
Hope this helps.