MHO, if you are there, and want to do studs, have the money for them, do them. If you can get them and they are spec. hell just put them in. If you are going to keep this car up into the end of the warranty, keep moding it, then it would never hurt.
I know I look forward to prices in 3 or 4 years from now. I look forward to knowing what works well, the stage 2-3 mod. Bigger turbo as soon as someone gets the plumbing worked out. I am just going to keep improving the looks, the suspension as it wears IE: shocks & struts, brake rotors and pads. Working to a 2.5" or 3.0" TURBO back, depending on the bigger turbo at that time. Stage 1 is enough to break this car in. I think on Christmas break I am going to lower it 1.3" F/R. I cant wait for the struts to wear out for this, but donÂ’t want to replace consumable goods when I will need to sometime any way, and that is the time to upgrade. MHO.
Oh, when you start to get into the 90, 100, and 110 RWHP Sportsters, you damn sure put the studs in.
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The recipe for perpetual ignorance is: be satisfied with your opinions and content with your knowledge.
Elbert Hubbard (1856 - 1915)
2003 Electric Blue GT-30,000 Miles on the clock
Stage 1, Greddy Profec II B. Turbo Chargers Wastegate set to 13#. Forge Motors BOV (Blue of course). Brand AMX Intake/AirCooler Pipes/K&N Cone with Snorkel to Fender well, MSD Coil, Live Wires(Blue of course), Factory rear sway bar, KYB struts and shocks, BTG strut tower brace, Suspension Techniques 1.3\" F/R lowering springs, ATP 3” down pipe with high flow cat, BTG axle back exhaust, Rear Spoiler. Russel Brake Lines/Hawk Brake Pads/Power Slot Cyro Rotors on a four corners
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