All depends on how you wire em up. series or parallel. if you connect the +/- on one of the 2 voice coils on ecah sub and then run the +/+ and -/- from each sub bridged to the amp, you'll be running a 2 ohm load.
ya might wanna rethink audiobahn, they're stuff isnt all that great. notice how nice and flashy they look...thats to make up for the crappy quality. check out Jl's ,kicker L7's, RF. read, read and read some more, check the forums at
www.carsound.com if anyone can advise you on what to get and what to avoid they can. most of the guyson that forum are pros in the competition circut and pro installers
heres a really good diagram on everything you ever wanted to know about wiring subs and the resulting ohm loads
http://www.jlaudio.com/tutorials/wiring/index.html
also, when you look into an amp, dont let yourself be dazzled by the rated power and cheap price. you can pretty much use $1 a watt as a guide. quality amps are rated at 12v, cars usually will be running 14v, therefore the quality amps are really under rated. they do it for a few reasons, #1 is competition, The competition classes run 0-300 watts for instance. say you have a JL audio amp rated at 300 watts, in reality that amp will easy push 1000 watts.
on the other hand, say you buy a low quality amp rated at a whoppin 2000 watts MAX power. when they test the amp in the factory they zap it with about 32v, give it a second to fry and say , check it out our amp will max at 2000 watts..what they didnt tell you is it fried a 1/2 second later and in reality it can really handle 100 watts@12v
just some stuff to look out for from experience and save you from wasting your $$