Hello from the Candyman:

[Candyman]

Hello CareYK,

Thank you for your question! A lot of how you would go about repairing this type of problem, depends on how deep the affected area has been damaged. This is where photos always help to paint a better picture of what we are up against, but for now, lets work on a few basic things you might try before we move on to some more complicated steps!

A QUICK NOTE:

First off, unless it is an extreme situation, I highly recommend never ever, ever using high speed buffers to repair damage in a tight area like that around the headlight assembly's! The reason is, unless you are experienced, the paint on angled small areas tend to have a lighter coverage of paint, which means you run a way higher risk of burning, or marring the paint, resulting in way worse damage than when you started! Sorry to be a little abrupt, but I have seen a lot of this type of problem over my career, and really try to warn people before it is too late!

Now that we got that out of the way, lets do it to it, and try to fix this thing! For this, and most of my recommendations, I usually use Meguiar's Products, as they are inexpensive, easy to use, and are readily available, however their are many great products out their that work just as well!

Their are three types of chemicals your going to need to do this type of job right. These products should cost between $10.00 to $12.00 each, but are a very good idea to have on hand, and you will be amazed at the difference these chemicals will make your paint look when used correctly!

1. A very mild Compound Example: Meguiar's, or 3M Light Duty Compound

2. A good Glaze: Example, Meguiar's Show Car Glaze, or 3M Hand Glaze

3. A good Wax: Example: any type of wax you prefer Zymol works fine!


First, Keeping in mind that you always want to try to work in the shade, on a cool, clean surface, start off by grabbing your bottle of Light Duty Compound, and shake it up good. Next grab a clean Microfiber Rag,, fold it into four, and dab a little of the compound onto the center of the rag. Next, gently rub out the damaged area using small circles. Work the compound into the paint, and wipe off the execs material, and inspect the area. You should start to see a difference but In some cases, you may need to repeat this step a second time if needed.

The next step is called Glazing, and the process is much the same as Compounding. Gram the bottle of Glaze, shake it well, and apply a small amount of Chemical to another clean Microfiber Rag folded into four, and apply the product to the area you are working on! This time however, instead of wiping the product off, let it cure on the paint for 3-5 minutes before wiping it off

And finally, follow up with a good wax of your choice, using the same basic steps. Once you apply your wax of choice, you again want to apply it using small circular motions, and then let it sit for a couple of minutes to let the wax bond with the paint surface before you wipe it off to gain maximum protection!

After performing these three steps, the damaged area should at the very least look a lot better, if not next to invisible!

QUICK TIPS:

The reason I always recommend folding rags into four, is to cut down on rags used. The idea is to apply product using one side of the rag, and then flip it over and use the opposite side to wipe the product off!

If car wax gets hard too quickly, and becomes difficult to remove, it is sometimes handy to keep a small spray bottle with a 50/50 mix of water, and rubbing alcohol which are the basic ingredients of a Quick Detailer Spray that helps lubricate, and desolve left over wax residue!

I hope that might help give you a good place to start, and hopefully fix your problem! If it doesn't, please let me know, and I have some other things we can try! Again, thank you for your question, and please let me know how it comes out!

Take it easy!

Candyman

[Candyman]

Hey Crewzin,

Thank you for your concern on my back! Its kind of taken the wind out of my sails a bit, bit we will keep on pushing on through for sure!

Anyways, I was wondering if you would be interested in me putting my Detailing Library on here for other Members to reference? As you know, its a ton of material, so I figured I had better ask you first, but if you would like it, I would be more than happy to post it for everyone to enjoy! If its too much info to put in the Forum, no problem! Your call! I am happy either way! I also don't want to step on any other detailer's toes who might offer advise here as well! I never want to take over, just provide good help! where needed!

Take care, and again, thank you to all for your warm welcome!

Candyman

[fear1pt]

Originally Posted by Candyman

Hello Everyone,

My name is Don "Candyman" Bedford. I am a former Professional Automotive Detail Tech Specialist who loves to talk shop, and I just wanted to say hi, and offer Detailing advise to anyone who might be in need! You may have seen my "How To" posts on other Forums, and as some of you already know, I am always more than willing to help out any fellow PT'er any way I can!

And on that note, if anyone ever has a question, please feel free to drop me a line, and I will be more than happy to help out any time!

Take it easy!

Candyman

Candyman:
Great seeing you up on the forum. I'm out in Cal for shows 8/3 DUB. 8/9 H.I.N. 8/10 Funk Masterflex. Plus just finished with Fast & Furious 4 movie (summer 09 release date) & Knight Rider TV show ( 08 Sept, release date) drop me a line when you have time.

[CREWZIN]

Don,

I'm only 1 of 3 moderators and don't have the authority to make a sticky of your library. SKYLIGHT (Neon) is the owner of the forum so look him up and drop him a line about what you'd like to do.

[careyk]

Thanx Candyman...What is the best paste wax out there???? I used Meguiar's and am pretty happy with it

[Candyman]

Hey Crewzin,

Thank you, and I will shoot a line over to your co-administrators shortly! I was more, or less just wanting to make sure it was cool to post that much info on here! Making it a sticky would be way cool, but if not, then no biggie! If it is cool, I will go ahead and post some of my segments for everyone here to enjoy sometime in the next day or two! It doesn't matter if the order gets all jumbled up! I am just wanting to give everyone some basic tools to do a good job on their ride, and do it the right way, to produce some great results! If it becomes too much information, or any problems, please let me know!

Candyman

[Candyman]

Hey Fear 1,

Whats up my man? Sounds like they have been running your legs off! Now I know your gonna reserve me a Directors Cut of Fast & the furious, right? Kidding! Ill just have to wait till it comes out, and pick up a bootleg copy from some guy in an alley like the rest of us!

Anyways, I sent you an email over to ya, and be sure to drop me a line one of these days! You be good, and go easy out their in Movieland, and I will ctch ya on down the road!

Candyman

[Candyman]

Hey CareyK,

Thank you for another good question, and I apologize if you have read this post today, before I edited this content! Not very often, but once in a while the pain medication I have to take for my back kind of throws me out into left field a bit, and some of the things I say, just don't seem to come out right! With this said, here is my top recommendations on wax for you!

One of my favorite waxes I used to use was Meuiar's Medallion which was a great product, but is no longer being produced due to environmental regulations. The next best thing in the Meguiar's family line up would be either the Gold Class Paste Wax, or the #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax from their Professional line. Both are around $10.00 - $12.00, and work great! Zymol also works pretty great, and provides great overall protection that is hard to beat for the money!

As most PT People already know, I am pretty close to Meguiar's Automotive Detailing Products, but every now, and then, I like to see what other Chemicals are out their floating around out their. Here is a short product review of one of my all time favorite waxes that I often use on my PT all the time, and would highly recommend to anyone!

A couple of years ago while having lunch at the Iowa 80 Truck Stop in Wallcot, IA, I came across a bottle of California Custom M-Ron Glass Wax. Though it was a little high in cost, I decided to pick up a bottle, and see what it could do. I have to say, this is a great Wax! Not only can you use this product in direct sunlight, but it absolutely will not stick or leave a chalky residue. Not even if you leave it baking on your black plastic trim, like mirrors! Just take a clean Microfiber towel, and wipe off the excess product, and you are good to go! Since it is a pure Carnuba Based product, it provides great protection for up to three months! Here is a link where you can find this great product, and if you have a chance to pick up a bottle, I highly recommend it!

M-Ron Glass - California Custom Products Inc.

Till next time, take it easy, take it easy, and we will catch you on down the road!
Candyman

[CruisinDad]

Candyman, great set of detailing tutorials for the novice. I have threequestions. 1) The Buffing Your Paint segment got out of order in the postings. Between Washing and Finshing Details when is the buffing process done?

2). Your series doesn't include info on keeping cloth upholstry clean and fresh. Do you have info to add another segment. What about cleaning interior/exterior glass? (my dad insist on taking his car to the car wash and is the windshield is always sprayed with the liquid wax stuff. Makes a mess when using wipers.

3)My pt has fabric upholstry. There is a stain (I think from some kind of oil) on the back seat cushion. Any thoughts on this?

[Candyman]

Hey CruisinDad,

Thank you for your questions, an lets see if we can't get you some good answers her!

1. The Buffing Segment should come after Claying, and before Polishing.

2. As for cleaning your glass, it is actually very common for Car washes to lay down some of that foamy, watered down, wax like material, which contains some mild Silicons, and tends to make a lot of mess. The best way I recommend to clean glass, both in, and out is to first off spray a good glass cleaner onto the window. Instead of wiping it off right away, give it a couple of minutes to react on the surface. Agitate the glass cleaner with 000, or 0000 grade steel wool prior to wiping off. Now, when you are ready to wipe the glass down, you want to wipe the interior windows in an up and down motion. Next wipe the outside down using a side to side motion. The reason for this is, if you see streaks, you will know where they are. Also, to make window cleaning a little easier, you can apply a thin coat of Carnuba Paste Wax directly to the glass! This process should be repeated once every 2 - 3 months, but will significantly reduce the friction keeping stuff from sticking to the glass. Not only does this make the windows easier to cleen, and keep clean longer, but also if it rains, or you get moisture on your windows, the water will simply bead off making it much easier to see!

3. As for your Upholstery, their are always a lot of variables which make it harder to advise on how to clean properly. Depending on what type of oil stain you have, how long it has set into the fabric, and so on, will dictate procedures on how to deal with the problem. A couple of simple things you can try yourself would be to,

1. For light Stains on Fabric Upholstery, you can try using Baby Wipes directly on the stain. This will ensure that only the bare minimum amount of liquid is being applied, and the Alcohol Content in the Baby Wipes tend to act as a good stain lifter.

If the Oil Stain is old, you may want to try applying a thin layer of Petrolium Jelly (Vasoline) which should help loosen the stain, and again lift it to the surface. For this process to work though, the Petroleum Jelly must remain on the stain for a minimum of 2 - 3 hours to react with the material. Once time is up, you will want to take a soft bristle brush, a bottle of All Purpose Cleaner like (Simple Green), or any other cleaner you wish to use, and a clean Terry Cloth Towel .

What you want to do is, take your Cleaner, and spray directly over where the stain has been set up. Next take your soft bristle brush, and agitate the surface using small circular motions. Then grab your Clean Terry Cloth Towel, which should be damp with warm water, and lightly wipe away the left over residue.

I will try to go more in depth in a few days.as soon as things slow down a bit more.

Again, thank you for your great questions, and if you ever need anything else, I am always around, and love to help out any way I can!

Take it easy, and we will catch ya a little further on own the road!

Candyman