Detailing Your Paint: Waxing

[Candyman]

Hello Everyone,

Welcome to our next segment in our Guide to Detail your PT like a Pro! We are almost done with the outside of our Project! Now that our paint has been perfected, it is time to add some good protection against the elements, as well as harmful Ultraviolet Rays that can damage your paint surface if not properly cared for!



For this segment, I am going to use Meguiar's Gold Class Paste Wax. Though this wax is a little more difficult to apply, and remove, because its a paste, it is stronger than liquid wax. This means longer protection, and better gloss. It is also inexpensive at approximately $12.00, and is available at PEP BOYS, or NAPA.

For this segment, I will apply the wax using the foam applicator that is included with this product. I start on the roof, working in small sections, and work my way down. I apply wax to the foam applicator pad, and work in a side to side pattern. The reason for this is to help fill, and blend minute scratches, and achieve maximum gloss. Let the wax dry to a white haze, and Wipe off residue with a clean microfiber towel folded into quarters, and misted with either Meguiar's Final Inspection, or Meguiar's Quick Detailer.

After you have waxed the exterior of your PT, its a good idea to go back over your paint one more time, misting each panal with either Meguiar's Final Inspection, or Meguiar's Quick Detailer, and wipe down with a clean microfiber towel.

QUICK TIP:

One added step I do just for show car prep is to apply a paint sealant over the wax. This will make darker colors like red, blue, or black, as well as metallic, pearl, and candy paints pop better, giving more vibrant color, and a more wet appearance. Paint sealant can also add several months of protection to your finish. If you choose to do this final step, I recommend Meguiar's #20 Polymer Sealant. This product is easy to apply, and remove, and is inexpensive for a polymer Sealant at ($17.00)This type of product is more often carried in Automotive Paint Stores. The application process is the same as the wax. Apply sealant directly to a clean microfiber towel, and gently massage the chemical into the paint. Allow a few minutes for the chemical to bond, and react with the surface, and wipe with a seperate clean microfiber towel to visual perfection.

Please note that I have used Meguiar's products to perform this detail for its cost effectiveness, and ease of use. Though these chemicals are less expensive than some other brands on the market, they will produce the results in the picture of my Cruiser. These Chemicals are readily available at most Automotive Chain Stores like PEP BOYS, or NAPA AUTO PARTS, as well as many large Retail Stores like WAL-MART nationwide.

INTERESTING FACTS:

When you are applying a coat of Wax, or Polish to your PT by hand, Do you use small circular motions, or straight back and forth motions to apply product, and which way is best?

If you’re using a non-abrasive product with a high quality, clean, soft foam applicator pad, and you’re working on a clean surface, then it shouldn't’t matter which direction you move the applicator pad over the finish because nothing you’re using will be instilling any scratches or swirls into the finish.

The above being true, then some panels lend themselves better to straight line motions, while other panels lend themselves better to circular motions.

EXAMPLES:

Circular Motions
Most people find it’s easier to apply products in circular motions to large panels like the hood of a car. The reason for this is because circular motions act to help you spread your product out over large areas for more even, and thorough coverage. Some people also feel that circular motions help you to better work products into the finish. One thing for sure, moving your applicator pad in a circular motion tends to feel natural, and appears to come natural to most people. (Hand a wax applicator to 10 people and ask them to apply some wax to the hood of a car and stand back and watch how they apply the wax).

Straight Line Motions
Without good technique, applying products using straight-line motions is more difficult on larger panels. Straight-line motions are just as easy to use as circular motions, (and sometimes easier), on small panels and panels or sections that are longer in one direction while narrow in the other direction. Some times the panel itself will determine which direction you will apply your product.

Common sense tells you, (as well as the actual application of a product), that it will be easier and more efficient to use straight-line motions versus circular motions to apply a polish or wax to this thin, narrow painted section, than it will be to use circular motions.

The key thing to remember is this,

If you’re applying non-abrasive products, i.e. products that do not scratch or scour the finish, and your applying them with a soft, clean applicator and using good technique, then you should not be instilling any scratches or swirls no matter what direction you’re moving your hand.


Did you know that the outside Temperature, and Humidity has a big effect on how Detailing Chemical can react to the surface of your PT? The best surface temperature range for applying cleaners, polishes, and protectants is approximately 60 degrees to 80 degrees Fahrenheit. More importantly, the surface does not feel warm or hot to the touch.

Basically, when you're working within this temperature range, it's not too cold, and it's not too warm to realize exceptional results from just about any Meguiar's product.

Meguiar's products will work easily within a much broader temperature range, such as, 50 degrees to 90 degrees Fahrenheit, but guaranteed best results will be achieved in the 60 degrees to 80 degrees range.

Ambient Temperature (Outside temperature)
Ambient temperature is the room temperature or the temperature of the surrounding environment. It's easily possible to have between 10 to 50 degrees difference in ambient temperature compared to surface temperature. This can make the difference between a product that's easy to work with, or hard to work with. Keep in mind, the hotter the ambient temperature, the quicker products will dry.

Humidity (Moisture in the air)
Simply put, humidity is moisture in the air. Technically there is Relative Humidity and Absolute Humidity, but as it relates to:

* Applying
* Working with
* Curing, drying, hazing
* Wipe-off or removal of car care products.

The simple explanation of moisture in the air, or more specifically, the amount of moisture in the air is the major factor, which will affect how easily or potentially difficult a product will be to work with, or a procedure will be to perform.

Low humidity, in warm to hot temperatures, will act to cause liquids to evaporate and dry more quickly. This can make a product difficult to work with or decrease the amount of time the product remains easily workable on the surface.

High humidity in cold temperatures can make products hard to work because it can dramatically increase the amount of time necessary for the product to cure, dry or haze (depending on which product you're using).

Low humidity in low temperatures tends not to be a factor in working with, cure times, and when applying and in the removal of cleaners, polishes, and protectants (Low temperatures are a factor, but not low humidity in low temperatures).

High humidity in high temperatures tends not to be a factor in working with, cure times, and when applying and in the removal of cleaners, polishes, and protectants (High temperatures are a factor, but not high humidity in high temperatures)

Extreme temperatures, both cold and hot will make any product more difficult to work with.

Direct sunlight
Direct sunlight will dramatically increase the surface temperature compared to ambient temperatures and make cleaners, polishes and protectants extremely more difficult to apply, work and remove.

Air current/Wind
Air current/air flow, or windy conditions will act to increase the evaporation speed and potentially making some products more difficult to apply, work, or remove. In some cases this can be a bonus, helping a wax to cure/dry more quickly.

Summary
The best conditions for using cleaners, polishes and protectants on automotive paints would be in a cool place, out of direct sunlight, in a surface temperature range between 60 degrees and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with comfortable to low humidity, with a light breeze to create the perfect conditions for detailing your car's finish.

Common sense and a good rule-of-thumb is to avoid applying any product if the surface is too warm to touch with the palm of your hand comfortably.

50 degrees Fahrenheit = 10.0 degrees Celsius
90 degrees Fahrenheit = 32.2 degrees Celsius


In our next segment we will be talking about doing our final clean up, and inspection! As always, thank you for reading my Guide to Detailing Like a Pro, and till next time, we will see you a little further down the road!

Candyman

[Candyman]

MORE INTERESTING FACTS:

Why should you Wax Your PT?

Predating the automobile, it was European coach builders that first applied coatings of animal fats and wax to protect the custom paintwork on their horse drawn carriages. This tradition has endured over 100 years and is still the best way to protect the paintwork on modern-day coaches. Today, the multi-layered finish on your car, from the primer through the top (clear) coat, is only .006 to .008 of an inch thick. Regardless of how fine the finish is now, it will deteriorate and dull. Radiant and ultraviolet energy, acid rain, salt, atmospheric pollution, insect fluids, and bird droppings wage a constant war on your car’s finish. Waxing provides an easily renewable, transparent barrier between the finish and a hostile environment.

Waxing also makes your car, new or old, look better. Quality waxes now combine enriching oils that “wet” the surface with Brazilian Carnauba Wax and/or modern polymers for a high gloss shine. This brings us to the subject of selecting a wax. Waxes can be made from a natural wax, usually Brazilian Carnauba, or synthetically made with polymers and acrylic resins. In choosing a wax, here are some points to consider:

Carnauba Waxes

Carnauba comes from the fronds of the “Tree of Life” (Copernica Cerifera) native to northern Brazil. It is nature’s hardest, purest, and most transparent wax. Carnauba car waxes tend to produce a deeper, darker, richer shine that is often described as “three-dimensional”.

Many enthusiasts and show-car owners prefer the shine of carnauba waxes, especially on black, red, and dark color cars. Carnauba waxes bead water nicely, absorb the acid content in rain and hide minor swirls in the paint.

On the minus side, carnauba waxes are not as durable as synthetic waxes. Depending on your climate, they typically last 90 days. (Paste carnauba waxes will outlast liquid carnauba waxes due to their higher wax content.) Some carnauba waxes are a little harder to apply and buff off. And, carnauba waxes can be temperamental, sometimes “streaking” under certain temperature conditions.

Synthetic Waxes

Made from modern polymers and acrylic resins, synthetic waxes offer maximum durability and ease of application. Synthetic waxes can last six to nine months or longer and typically wipe on and buff off with very little effort. These waxes, sometimes called sealants, create a very bright shine and are resistant to clouding and streaking.

On the down side, many enthusiasts feel synthetic waxes lack depth and richness. Black cars can look a sterile silvery-white in direct sunlight. And, the mirror-like polymers can collect in minor swirls and actually highlight paint flaws.

One-Step Cleaner/Waxes

Many brands of carnauba and synthetic waxes can be purchased with or without cleaning agents. If you are using a polish before you wax, select a “pure” wax without cleaners. These formulas should produce a higher gloss and last longer. If you cannot devote the extra time for separate polishing, select a one-step cleaner/wax. One-step waxes can do an excellent job of maintaining newer finishes but cannot restore older cars with dull, oxidized, or neglected paint.


How long will wax last?

Many enthusiasts prefer the shine from Carnauba waxes. It is a deeper, richer shine and tends to mask and hide minor swirls in the paint. While Caranuba has the highest melting point of all natural waxes it does start to melt at 180 degrees F. A dark color vehicle parked in the sun on a summer day can have a sustained paint temperature exceeding 200 degrees f!

A good rule of thumb is to expect 50% of your Carnauba wax layer to be gone after 30 days, 75% after 60 days and 95% gone after 90 days. If you use a carnauba wax, you should plan on waxing your car four (4) times a year. You can extend the waxes life expectancy by parking indoors, using a car cover and by using spray-and-wipe detail sprays like Meguiar's Quick Detailer.

Synthetic waxes contain man made polymers with melting points in the thousands of degrees F. These coatings can last 6 to 9 months or longer. Some of these products bead water while others “plate” the surface causing water to sheet off. This lack of a visual cue (beading water) often makes it difficult to determine when to re-apply synthetic products. a good rule is to wax your car once in the spring and again late fall. This should give your car good protection all year long.

As always, thank you for reading our Guide on How to Detail Your PT Like a Pro, and till next time, take it easy, and we will catch you a little further down the road!

Candyman

[Candyman]

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