Jan/ tips/ vol 1
Greetings:
I hope 2004 brings a happy and healthy new year to all. This is my first "official" post on car care tips, so I hope you get some value out of it. New this year in addition to my regular detailing clinics is a three part advanced class, which will be a hands on workshop. This is the first class of its kind and will be held at the Wheeling Township High School. For those too far to come to one of my clinics, I will be available to answer any question you may have, so feel free to e-mail me anytime.
I will focus on winter care, although most of what I will talk about applies to any weather. The most important thing to do before winter hits us hard is to get enough protection on your finish. Before thinking that far ahead, we must go over surface preparation. If you have access to a warm garage, that is ideal; if not, go to a hand car wash. The worst thing you can do is go through a Motion Touch wash where some form of brushes (or flaps) sweep across your finish. You might not notice it right away, but in time you will see the damage. Even a good hand wash will not remove all the surface contaminants, for that you need to clay. I will talk more about clay in future posts because it is the single most effective way to prepare your finish for the final steps. (For clay bar application procedure, see my web site under detailing tips.) Once you have clayed the car, you should apply one more step prior to going to the final wax/seal stage. Since the clay is designed to remove surface contaminants, the next thing you need to do is remove the defects in the finish. For this I recommend a paint cleaner. Some cleaners are more abrasive than others, for example mine is mildly abrasive, others such as Meguiars is heavy abrasive. Most cleaners also have polishing oils in them to restore the shine. Work cleaners one small section at a time. Working with a terry pad go across or back and forth. DO NOT work in circular motion. Remove product right away with a micro fiber towel. After claying and paint cleaning, look at the finish, run your hand over it, look at it in different angles. If you are satisfied with the results, you are ready for the final step. Apply a synthetic paint sealant, which will give you months of protection. Paint sealants require some curing time, so after you apply it to your finish, allow it to haze or cure for 10-15 min. A few years ago when they were developed, people would allow them to sit on the finish for 24 hours or more. Todays sealants have curing agents in them to promote the bonding strength much quicker. Again, remove with a fresh micro fiber towel. For regular maintenance, just use a coin operated pressure washer car wash. Avoid washing when temps are far below freezing, if possible. Water can get inside parts and trim and do possible damage. It can even freeze your door locks. Never attempt to dry your car when it is below 32 degrees. Dont forget to put a coat of wax or sealer on your wheels as well. Quick detail spray is a handy way to keep the finish looking good in between washings. Simply spray on and remove with a micro fiber towel. If you have leather seats, make sure you apply some leather conditioner; winter will dry out the material quickly. By conditioning regularly you will prevent the seat from drying out and cracking. If you dont have heavy duty floor mats, you should get a set to save your carpeting from the salt and snow. Some people use towels, which will also work. They might not be a fashion statement, though. Check your fluids like coolant, oil, washer and brakes as well. Make sure the coolant is tested for below zero. One last thing: dress warm, and pray for spring. Happy motoring, Gary [^]
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03 Jan 2004, 11:59 pm
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