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Was curious if anyone had any experience with these headlamp harnesses that wire your lights directly to the battery, increasing the net voltage they receive. I had a harness similar to this one on my old vehicle, and I had great results from them - but the darn connections rusted out after 3 trips off-road! [xx(] I imagine I'd have to use some kind of grease or something at the connections to prevent it from happening again? [:I]
Any experience or advice for these things regarding the Cruisers? Here's a link that shows a good picture of what I'm talking about. http://jen.liu.tripod.com/suvlights/id14.html Thanks in advance!! [?] |
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CarolinaBlueGT, You can use a little conductive grease in the connector. I have my horns connected through a relay like that. I used silicone sealer in applied from the outside into the back of the connector itself to seal out any moisture. I also sealed ANY exposed connectors (ground etc..) I used black sealer. With careful application this makes an excellent way to seal out moisture, It also doesn't require a large investment, except for your time........
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Quote:
I'm just concerned with all the hubbub I've read in these posts regarding brighter bulbs that the excess heat (although minimal with OEM wattage bulbs) might be a problem for the housing, or if I'd even be able to fit the harness in there in the first place (not knowing how cramped it is in there behind the bulbs) Thanks! Mike
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Mike 2003 Patriot Blue GT \"R\" Package Autostick K&N drop-in w/both airbox silencers removed Brand \"X\" Turbo-up pipe |
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A couple of the guys installed that exact harness. Need to put in some dielectric grease in the sockets (recommended even for OEM wattage bulbs). Chino replaced his burned sockets many times (even with HD sockets) and finally had to replace the OEM harness (from his posts, I don't believe he tried an aftermarket add-on harness). Excessive heat is a concern. Some have had the reflector discolor or have burn marks, some report discoloration or fogging on the inside of the outer plastic lens, while others say no problem. I suppose YMMV. I know some people removed the rubber o-ring from the bulb and drilled a slot at the bottom of the light bulb base to allow the heated air to escape (copying the H-1 thru H-4 bulb designs). But there isn't a rubber cover/water/vent shield like you find with a H-1 and H-4 setup.
On my Capri, I used to have add-on protective plastic covers over my lead crystal Cibie headlights (80-100w H-4, and 130w H-1), but they discolored from the heat after a year or two. I would be hesitant in using high wattage bulbs in the all plastic construction of today's aero style headlights. Personally, if they were available, I would go for better optics, like the european e-code lights, over higher wattage and/or fake HID look bulbs. OR buy direct replacement real HID headlights, not those illegal plug-in HID bulb conversion kits. Sylvania only offers 50 state approved HID replacement headlight assembilies with harness and relays for Ford and Chevy pickup trucks.
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2002 Almond Pearl Limited Edition 27K It\'s nice to be important, but it\'s more important to be nice. http://sci-fi.ptenthusiasts.net/
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I considered that same harness for my PT, but after burning the reflective coating off my fogs with an increased wattage bulb, I didn't. I think Hella designed a great headlamp and am quite satisfied with the overall beam pattern. The OEM Sylvanias burn brightly as-is. Besides, you don't want to start messing around with bulky electrical under that cramped hood, do you? I contacted TYC - maker of projector-style headlamps - and inquired about the PT. No dice. Seems there are models for everybody else but us [V] |
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