Front Window Switches

[Leebroox]

This problem just reared it's ugly head on my windows and I believe it is the switches I took them apart and found the contacts coated with some black carbon deposit (like the got and some arcing and sparking between the contacts). It was only on the "auto" switch side. I cleaned them up and still no joy on my windows. I am about to replace the switch console. If anyone has any suggestions let me know.

[CREWZIN]

Found some things to read on the internet....

I have a 2005 TE Convertible with 11.5k miles. I disconnected the battery cable to clean the post (+ side), and after it was reconnected, the windows won't work. Checked fuses (#9 in PDC under hood and #14 interior fuse box) and all are ok. Called the dealer in Texas, and he said to disconnect the battery for 15 to 20 minutes, and that should bleed out any reserve charge in the circuit, and then the windows should operate. Has anyone tried this before? Also, I can't reset the clock. Any help would be appreciated. – Brian, from Guatemala.

Always disconnect and isolate the negative battery cable first, then disconnect the positive cable. When reinstalling the battery cables, start with the positive cable first, than connect the negative cable. The method that the dealer suggested is normally used to disarm (bleed capacitors) the restraint system. You can try it, but if it doesn't work try resetting the IOD fuse by removing and reinstalling. Read through this section for more information on the IOD fuse. If that doesn't work and all the other fuses appear to be ok have it checked.

The IOD fuse (#18, 20amp, in PDC) is the only one that will cause the cluster to display "no fuse". When removing or installing the IOD fuse, it is important that the ignition switch be in the Off position. To remove the fuse, pull it straight up until you it locks into the first detent (listen for the locking sound), then pinch the two "arms" just below the very top of the fuse/latch, which will release the fuse.

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I am having a problem with the front driver side power window switch. About 25% of the time it takes 2-5 presses to get the window to roll down from any position but never fails to roll up. Thanks - Jeff, from the USA.

The window switch has two contacts for "down." The normal push & hold and the express down. If neither position on the switch are working properly the window always goes up, and the passenger window is flawless, then you should have a bad switch. Power and ground is supplied to all switches through the same circuit. The possibility of a defective window motor that works only in one direction is miniscule.