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Perma Plate

 
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Old 26 Aug 2003, 12:03 pm
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Location: Rio Linda, CA, USA.
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Default Perma Plate

When I bought my 2001 LE a few months back, we had the Perma Plate system put on the Cruiser. It has Paintguard, a paint protection, on the outside.

Any one have care and feeding suggestions?
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Old 26 Aug 2003, 01:50 pm
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Don't put your faith in it. Dealerships have been selling that snakeoil under various names for as long as I can remember. They all tell you won't have to do anything to the car's paint for 5 years or something like that. If if ever needs anything just bring it back to them. Very few people ever will. Your car should still have regular care.
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Old 27 Aug 2003, 08:54 am
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OH BOY, I heard this post while I was in the shower. Since I focus on consumer education in regard to car care, and I have hosted over 100 detailing clinics in the Chicago Land area, the one point I try to bring home is DON'T LET A DEALER TOUCH YOUR FINISH. Here are a few reasons.
I always take a poll in my class, and I have heard people being charged anywhere from $400-$1200 for a paint seal system. On top of that outragious price, they seldom if ever prep the car properly. Rail dust, which is the #1 contaminant with new cars, when the dealers apply the sealant, they seal the rail dust INTO the finish. I get many cars in my shop with customers saying it looks like rust spots, but when I see it, its usually rail dust. (rail dust is the metal fibers that float into the air and land on your car, created by the steel wheels against the steel tracks when your car is shipped from the factory.
Everyone is claiming to have a system that will last forever. I have a bottle of Teflon paint sealant that someone gave me from a dealer, and teflon is useless in car products, but great on your frying pan. The basic ingrediant in a paint sealant is amino fucntional silicones, plus other chemicals or polymers. The marketing tool dealers use is that a paint seal must be professionaly applied. WRONG. I have sold my sealant to many people on this forum, and I gave them simple instructions on how to apply. It goes on like any wax, you just let it sit for 10 min, remove and your done. its not rocket science. I get meny calls from people that ask me to paint seal their new car and I do that service for $125, which saves them hundreds of dollars. Then I show them how to continue the process if they want. Vist my web site for more tips and ask any question you like, Gary www.perfectautofinish.com
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Old 27 Aug 2003, 09:38 am
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hey, i work in a rail yard and everyone's cars are damaged by this rail dust it looks like it's actually backed into the paint, the paint is rough like sand paper, and it doesn't come off.

I did get it smooth using mcguirs stage 1 products, but my finish looked like crap, dull, and boring looking, what is the method to remove rail dust, and not damage my new black paint?

thanks Punch

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Old 27 Aug 2003, 10:09 am
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Turbomangt, tell me one thing, how in the world did you hear this post in the shower?[:I]

Punch, Turbomangt will jump in here as soon as he's out of the shower but in the mean time. I was a skeptic about the claybar until I finally did it. While rubbing it over the paint I could hear this kinda scratching noise and it felt very rough. I continued this until the claybar went over the paint smoothly. Then I cleaned it and waxed it and boy, what a difference!! Smooth as a babies a$$. Put a rag on the hood and it just slides off. Tried the same "rag test" on my wifes car (didn't claybar hers yet) and the rag didn't move an inch. Anyway, Turbomangt will be along in a minute.
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Old 27 Aug 2003, 10:45 pm
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Working in a hazardous area might be an excuse to buy a car cover, $200- from Chrysler.


...heard it post in the shower???
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Old 27 Aug 2003, 11:48 pm
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Location: Chicago, IL.
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I hear everything on car care. BIG DADDY DETAIL IS ALWAYS WATCHING. seriously, I'm glad all my posts are not falling on deaf ears. The clay bar is an amazing tool to prep your surface. and for rail dust it is the only method to remove it. See the home page detail tip #7 it decribes the proper use of clay. if you need more info, you can always get a hold of me through my web site> www.perfectautofinish.com Gary
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Old 28 Aug 2003, 11:31 am
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Well, I wish I new you good people before that faitful day that I bought the crzn8r. There are only a couple regrets that I have and they all concern the dealer.

Turbomangt, I will give your site a look-see, wish I was close enough to attend one of your seminars. You have some good sounding advice here on the board, and we all appreciate your willingness to share.
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Old 28 Aug 2003, 01:19 pm
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Join Date: Nov 2002
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Quote:
quote:Originally posted by crzn8r

Well, I wish I new you good people before that faitful day that I bought the crzn8r.
Crzn8r.....alot of folks got stuck in 2000-2001 with the dealers "requiring" the dealer applied sealant on cars they sold. My local 5-star was screwing their willing customers with $750 surcharges for sealant/undercoating/fabric protection. (the PT already has undercoating/and fabric protection for leather?) I wasn't willing and drove 300 miles to find an honest dealer.
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