How to remove clearcoat scratches?

[Sci-Fi]

Why not just take it back to the paint shop and have them buff it out. Should be a no cost service to you. Here's a buffing video you can view if you really want to do it yourself (just right click on the link and save): http://autopia-carcare.com/lib/autopia/Buffing768.wmv
or
Meguilar's videos: http://www.meguiars.com/clinics/clinics_template.cfm

The buffer used in the 1st video is a Porter Cable 7424 random orbit polisher(model 7336 is an alternative with a 6oz counterweight and what I generally use the most), which is relatively safe to use even for novices or beginners. This is different from Rotary Polishers, like a Makita 9277c, Dewalt DW848, or Milwaukee 5540, which can generate heat fairly quickly on the surface to be polished and can burn easily through your clearcoat and paint, not to mention the ability to knock off or mar your side mirrors and any emblems. But for removing heavy scratching, deep sanding marks, or leveling paint, it is the only way to go in "experienced hands". Rotary polisher use, in general and as stated in the above post, should be left to professional body shops and detailers.

[TripleJackInGA]

Cuz I had it done out of town about a month ago.

[turbomangt]

I see. Sci-Fi, do you have a cyclo dual head polisher? I have it on my wish list for Xmas. ( I have an in with Santa, I think I will be getting one) Their has been many discussions with the pros I talk to if the DAPC can remove swirl marks. Due to the lack of heat like you said, it is limited in cutting/leveling ablility. High speed as you know can damage as fast as repair in the wrong hands. I have found limited success with the DA because of this. On the other hand, the cyclo dual head can produce more friction along with the rotation of the heads, plus the way the machine is designed to allow the user to put firm pressure on the surface. Unlike the DAPC, which bogs down with any kind of pressure. That's why the PC machine is user friendly no heat, no pressure, no harm. also with that goes No correction. People I talk to that have the cyclo almost never use the DAPC, I can't wait for the holidays/ Gary[?]

[GTSteve]

I did a search for the cyclo polisher and got a good exucation. I had no idea there were so many types of polishers. The cyclo looks like a really cool one. Also, it sounds like a very good choice for the novice like me. Gary - you'll have to give us a review after you get your for Christmas.

For now, I'll just use my own 2 hands. Fortunately, my car is new and only has minor swirls from being washed incorrectly while it sat on the lot waited to sell. The dealer is next to a large soccer field that is mowed by tractor. All the cars are covered with dust all the time. What a mess.

Eventually, I would like to deal with those swirls but that can wait until next spring or summer. Then I'll need some advice.

[Sci-Fi]

quote:Originally posted by turbomangt

I see. Sci-Fi, do you have a cyclo dual head polisher? Their has been many discussions with the pros I talk to if the DAPC can remove swirl marks. Due to the lack of heat like you said, it is limited in cutting/leveling ablility. High speed as you know can damage as fast as repair in the wrong hands. I have found limited success with the DA because of this. On the other hand, the cyclo dual head can produce more friction along with the rotation of the heads, plus the way the machine is designed to allow the user to put firm pressure on the surface. People I talk to that have the cyclo almost never use the DAPC, I can't wait for the holidays/ Gary[?]

I do own a cyclo dual head polisher. It is only a single speed, but the polisher is pretty much bulletproof and pretty much does whatever job I want it to. It will give you years of service and take a beating. It's great for shampooing the carpet and interior too.

As far as the DAPC removing swirls, it can do it but will take longer, as you already probably know, than if one used a rotary. 3M abrasive products tend to be less oily and have less or no fillers than Meguiar's products. So it's easier to see if the swirls are actually being removed rather than taking extra time to remove any fillers that may be masking the defects. I tend to use the 7336 more than the cyclo, varible speed is a big plus for me, the pads are easier to buy and there are a greater variety of pads available (flat, concave, waffle, etc.), and its a bit more flexible, can use an oversized 7½" pad to get to curved areas or cover more area.

The choice of which machine to use comes down to personal preference, I don't have a problem using either one.

The following pics I took aren't the best, but it shows swirl marks(automatic car wash swirls)can be removed with a PC:
After initial polishing stage:

After waxing:



The reflection off the paint almost matches the reflection off the window and has good depth and a nice wet look. Customer was extremely happy with the look and so was I. That's all that matters.

But to get back to TripleJackInGA question, If the sanding marks are fine and in small areas and if you don't have access to a polisher, I would use either 3M Perfect-It III Machine Glaze or a fine grit rubbing compound by hand, then use a swirl mark remover or Meguiar's Swirl Free Polish to polish the paint back up. Can read the end of this article to see pics and the process better: http://www.autopia.ws/articles.php?articleId=27
A bit of warning, the areas or section you polish out may look better than the rest of the car and you may end up polishing the entire car and then have to wax it. The products I mentioned above should be locally available at your local auto body and paint supplier. There are other excellent products that are on the market, but may be harder to obtain quickly.

Should call the paint shop and see how long they recommend waiting before waxing. Usually a month is long enough, but some paints may require a longer cure time.

[turbomangt]

Sci Fi, what business are you in? I see your shop in the pics. looks good. Have you used Lake County pads? who do you get your pads from, I have been using auto magic but heard these others are better. I also like 3m's waffle design, a little pricy but I like their performance. I would be interested in your thoughts. Gary

[Sci-Fi]

Lake Country Pads is what I generally prefer to use, specifically the concave or variable contact pads. They last longer, minimal or no splatter of product, and the velcro backing doesn't come off after cleaning/washing/drying like the SoftBuff models from Meguiars do after awhile. In my area, the local suppliers stock a limited variety of 3M pads, but one can order what you need direct from 3M with free shipping. There are a few other brands available, but I haven't used those yet. Top of the Line Detailing Supplies has nice prices on Lake Country Pads and one of the best customer services. Classic Motoring Accessories aka ProperAutoCare is another good online store that carries Lake Country Pads. Locally, I go to Annex, Mesa, Colortone, etc. whoever is nearest at the time to buy pads and supplies. Prices seem to be about the same, only difference is either paying the sales tax or shipping, whichever is cheaper or faster. Just ordered a few of the LC tufted and orange pads to try out.