![]() |
|
|
|||||||
| Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| Site Home | Forum Home | Photo Gallery | PT Events | PT Videos | Car Videos |
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
IRPT,
I read that post, and that's what prompted me to post my problem. Luckily, I haven't had that many problems with my PT, I put nearly 30k miles in the first year, and this is my only real complaint about the car. Thanks for the help everyone. I will contact my dealer again and tell them what I found out. |
|
|||
|
Quote:
Puck |
|
|||
|
I also have the dimming situation but it is very minor and I don't pay attention to it.
__________________
Marty from MD Black GT 03, BTG cat/back duals, rocket taillights, BTG shock strut bar, & Blane hood struts
|
|
|||
|
I, too, have the dimming problem. I used to have the trip odometer reset problem, but that is fixed.
I think they all are caused by crummy grounds, both in the cheap, thin wires used and the cheap, corrosive contacts. I intend to replace all of them with better performing, more attractive wires and contacts. When I replaced my battery terminals and my battery-to-chassis ground cable, my trip odometer reset problem vanished. At first, I thought it was the battery (it went bad and was replaced two days before I redid the terminals), but it did not hit me until recently that my thicker guage ground wire, my better contact, and the better terminal is probably the reason my tripometer works properly now, in spite of numerous static electricity jolts to the PT. (I always have my odometer display the trip odometer rather than the absolute odometer as a fuel guage/MPG check, so I have paid attention to that problem many of us have.) ![]() The Stinger terminals are beautiful. ![]() I had a leftover ground terminal from those ubiquitous kits (Wal-Mart, AutoZone, etc.) that cost about $3. It is a much thicker and shinier wire and eyelet. I just cut the ground cable for the length that I needed and chucked the terminal. I also added a washer on the chassis post for better, cleaner contact. I cleaned the battery posts to a shine, not that you see them, but it is for better lead-to-lead (an unintentional pun there: "led" and "leed") contact. Now my PT's power source is properly, neatly jacked-in. I think the factory rig is junk, unsightly and unreliable. Less than $20 and a little tinkering time is well worth it; I highly recommend it. |
|
|||
|
had the same problem in my 70 dart same thing paint in between the housing and the body took paint off all ok!!
|
|
|||
|
Quote:
|
|
|||
|
I had problems with my neons until the guy redid the grounding to the battery
__________________
Boring Gold PT, oops that was 4 years ago
|
|
|||
|
let us know what happens,keep us posted!!
|
|
|||
|
I removed the air box and then removed the small set of ground wires at the inner fender( 5 wires w/2 terminals) cleaned the contact area to bare metal and reinstalled. Removed the battery ground nut and stud and cleaned the contact area to bare metal and reinstalled.
Waste of time, still flashes when the brakes are depressed, CRAP! I also had my PCM replaced under 18-029-03 bulletin so it is not a PCM problem. |
|
|||
|
Quote:
__________________
CHUCK |
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|