Crazy door locks

[nickbidd]

Mine had crazy door locks and thanks to this forum I just fixed them!
Problem: The driver & passender doors and the tailgate each has a small switch on the back of the lock barrel. The switch has two resistors (I think approx 50 & 250 ohms), when the key is rotated to lock the car it sends the appropriate resistance to enable the alarm.
When the key is rotated to unlock it sends a signal to the alarm to disable it allowing you to open the door without the alarm operating. If the key is turned to unlock the door 'twice' the signal operates the power locks to unlock the whole car. So if your remote fob doesn't work, you can still operate the power locks for the whole car. Like most users, I only use my fob so I didn't know about this feature until I had a problem.
The drivers door lock switch had cracked, it was split and the vibration caused the switch to keep sending lock and double unlock signals operating the locks all the time. Because they use 'resistors', when it was damp/wet it was worse as the moisture kept changing the resistance value.
Mine was the drivers switch but either could cause problems. If you operate each of them with the key in turn, the faulty one may only work sometimes.
The car locking itself every time you shut the door was becoming a pain, fitted new switch about three months ago now and no problems.
Hope this helps anyone else with the problem.

[CREWZIN]

Glad you got yours fixed but looking all the replies to this thread there seems to be a lot of different fixes all related to a similar problem. You seem to have picked the particular fix for yours. Nice diagnostics.

[JoeHundredAire]

That was pretty good timing too. I had a problem with mine the other night. When I tried to unlock the rear gate & it would lock back on me. I don't have a working FOB & just always use the key. When I unlocked it from the driver's door, it stopped doing it.
BTW - Is there any particular reason why Chrysler didn't bother to add a key tumbler on the passengers side door as well? This is the only car I've ever seen without one on both sides.

[nickbidd]

Originally Posted by JoeHundredAire

That was pretty good timing too. I had a problem with mine the other night. When I tried to unlock the rear gate & it would lock back on me. I don't have a working FOB & just always use the key. When I unlocked it from the driver's door, it stopped doing it.
BTW - Is there any particular reason why Chrysler didn't bother to add a key tumbler on the passengers side door as well? This is the only car I've ever seen without one on both sides.

Sounds like the switch in the rear gate, either loose or broken. My 2000 UK model has a key tumbler both sides! I suspect they just wanted to save some money.

[CREWZIN]

Originally Posted by JoeHundredAire

- Is there any particular reason why Chrysler didn't bother to add a key tumbler on the passengers side door as well? This is the only car I've ever seen without one on both sides.

Joe,

Back around 2003 Chrysler started their cost cutting measures and continued for a couple years. They did away with that passenger door lock, the engine vanity cover, some lights on inner switches. The rear cargo net and shelf because options you could buy instead of coming with all cruisers. The changed from all chrome to chrome-clad wheels and went to solid outside rear-view mirrors instead of the folding type that came on the 01-02 cruisers. There's probably a couple more things I can't think of at this time.

[JoeHundredAire]

Ahhh...that makes sense. I might have to hit the local junk yards for a set of those early mirrors. Although the "cheap" ones look fine to me for now.

[lt4supr]

I read my manual and turned off my auto doorlocks that lock when underway at i think 15 mph.before that my door locks went crazy and it had nothing to do with my keyless enter since i had broke it weeks before..cant hurt to try,hope this helps.............

[BLUEH20]

Chrysler cost cutting by removing passenger door key lock--

I just went out to the garage and checked my 2008 PT Touring, just bought it last month and you guys are spot on-no passenger door lock assembly.Out of curisoity, I chekced my 2002 Mercedes Benz SLK320; no passenger door lock. Just to verify that it was not a DiamlerChrysler issue, I checked my 2004 Volvo XC70-no passanger door key lock assembly. I did find one on my 1990 Jeep Cherokee. I wasn't sure that the Jeep had one cause I can not remember ever using it and I am the original owner of all the vehicles memetioned.

Appears that lots of manufactures are doing away with the passeger door lock assembly--does anyone else have a vehilce without the key assembly?

Could be an interesting thread in its self.

[ejstith]

I had the same thing happen when I first got my PT. I had decided something was wrong with the system and so stated on this forum when I got home. One time I was standing beside the car and the locks unlocked all by them selves. I took the fuse out at a hotel on my way home. Once I got home the keys lay on a desk by the door or the little lady has them in her purse. The doors haven't opened by themselves since I got home. I have came to the conclusion that the fob rollin' around in my pocket was the culprit. It's not really a recessed design to prevent such a thing happening. No problem so far .. and it's been almost a month ...

[dexterslabmi]

My locks would go crazy while driving or parked... moist days were the worst according to my neighbor. Got to the point where it did not seem safe... couldn't leave packages in the car etc.. well I had this problem until today....

It was bad door lock switch. paid $70 for the diagnostic and the part. Dealer wanted another 125 to put the part on... I figured how hard can this be... so I took on replacing the part myself same as nickbidd.

I got a few pics to show you what I when through putting this part on. BTW this is not really covered in the Chilton or Haynes manuals so this forum has been helpful... hope this helps others. First thing... was finding the switch. Its actually location directly behind the key lock. They (dealer/parts packet) did not offer a lot of information but I did get the parts guy to should me where the switch was located on the parts schematic.


Here is the switch that I ordered...

The door panel has to be removed... to reveal the inside of the door...

Here is a look at the mechanism and the old switch which I was able to remove... but it looks like the block is in my way to replace new switch... space to place switch is very tight!

I had to remove the lock block to maneuver enough to put the new switch in place.

I removed the old switch from the back of the lock and placed the new one on the lock... you can see the old switch leaning back has a cracked face which was causing my locks to short and act erratic. I left it in place intil I was sure of the connections to be made.

Putting new wires in place through loom and connecting new switch. New wires have to be spliced into old wires.

Loom is wrapped good and door is ready to be put back in place.


Hopes this helps someone else out....