Popping sound while driving

[arkansascarnut]

I've searched the forum and I've read about the popping sound when turning the wheel to the left, but I can't find anything about my problem. I hear a popping sound when driving - primarily when driving over rough roads or hitting a bump.

Am I hearing something normal or is do I have something wrong? I don't want to look like an idiot when I take the car in to have it checked if there's nothing wrong. I'm used to driving MB's and they do have a different steering setup than a PT. I thought about going for a test drive at the dealership in another covertible to see if I hear the same noise.

I don't have any type of fluid leaks either.

[ucantcme]

Check your Lower Control Arm Bushings!

[arkansascarnut]

Okay - thanks!

[rmorrison]

I had a popping noise on bumpy roads with my 2001 PT .I and found excessive play in the outer tie rod ends.I replaced them and no more noise.It could also be the lower control arm bushings.

[hivetyrant36]

I have a similar problem. Except my car was "totaled" but I fixed it, and it happens when I accelerate. After acceleration it pops again as if its relieved. It happens when I turn the wheel. The left front wheel is the problem.
I got out and looked while turning, and it looks like someone is dislocating their shoulder and putting it back in, but for a wheel.

[CREWZIN]

Get it up on a rack and see what the problem is. Sounds like a loose or broken tie rod, stabilizer bar, ball joint, whatever. But until you get it up on the rack you won't know.

...and since you posted this in another thread I'll go ahead and delete that one.

[creflo]

My 2008 PT Cruiser manual transmission with 60,000 miles makes a clunking noise coming from the front end, mainly only when turning left (just a slight left turn, or even going straight on a banked road), and when coasting.

I replaced the upper engine mount, with no improvement. I carried it to a mechanic who put it on a lift and said the other engine mounts were fine. This mechanic said noise is common with PT's, and he recommended just leaving it be and said it should be fine.

I took it to another mechanic for a second opinion, he rode with me, and he put the front right on a jack, showed me where the control arm had migrated down, exposing the rubber inner part where it mounts to the chassis. He also had me turn the wheel back and forth (like left to right turn), and it moved about 2mm in either direction. He attributed this to the outer tie rod. He quoted a total of $436.00 to fix ($170 for control arm, $59 for outer tie rod, $98 labor, plus 4 wheel alignment $70).

He said the car is driveable but it might prematurely cause tire wear. Any advice? Should I have the fix done? I think he said one of the parts is more important than the other, but I can't recall which.

[myckee]

The tie rod is the important one. If the tie rod breaks there will be nothing steering that wheel allowing it to flop about and ultimately get twisted around in the wheel well not only causing damage but could send you out of control and causing a major accident, especially if you are at highway speeds when it breaks.

As far as costs go, that's up to you. If you can repair your car yourself the control arm and tie rod will total about $60 combined if you get them from rockauto.com. If you have a competent buddy that can do the work then you will still save over the mechanic rate you quoted. Of course you will still need to pay the 70 for a wheel alignment. If you are going this route then I would recommend doing both sides for control arms and tie rods. If one control arm has dead bushings, the other isn't far off. As for the tie rod, since you will do a wheel alignment anyway, and the ridiculous price of $3 for a tie rod, you might as well do it too.