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Buy or run?

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05 Aug 2009, 07:01 pm
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Location: WV
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Default Buy or run?

I found an '01 Limited, Automatic I really liked for $4700. It has 90K miles, relatively clean and I ran it for 20 min, and took it for a 30 min test drive. Tach was good, no noises, and good breaks. Of course there are a few issues that I was wondering on the seriousness:

1. Horn doesn't work. Mechanic says connections are corroded.
2. Engine light is constant. (gas cap or vacume problem?)
3. An independent engine diagnostic code says "internal" error (quite vague)
4. Vacume leak behind the manifold. It appears to be in a tube.
5. Missing drivers arm rest
6. A few small rust spots on the hood.

The dealer will have the car for a few more days to fix the horn, and vacume leak. He thinks the fixes are realitively innexpensive and easy. He's fairly confident that the idiot engine light will also be an easy fix.

Here's the features:
Sun Roof, Traction, remote entry, cruise control, power everything, CD/Cassette, Roof Rack. At the moment the dealer and I could not figure if the car had anti theft, or ABS. In his defense, he just got the car and didn't go through his checks.

So, should I continue with the purchase or continue looking?
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Old 05 Aug 2009, 07:28 pm
mjb457's Avatar
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Bucks County,PA. USA
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Default Re: Buy or run?

Id run,,, Id keep looking... there are very good well maintained PT's out there for under 6k.. ( alot) keep looking & you will find agood one you like! MJB
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Old 05 Aug 2009, 07:28 pm
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Default Re: Buy or run?

The only thing I can comment on with the 2001 is the passenger arm rest was not included. However if the driver one is really missing that's odd.
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Old 05 Aug 2009, 07:29 pm
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Default Re: Buy or run?

Id run,,, Id keep looking... there are very good well maintained PT's out there for under $6k.. ( alot) keep looking & you will find a good one you like! MJB
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Old 05 Aug 2009, 07:35 pm
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Default Re: Buy or run?

RUN! Run like hell!
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Old 05 Aug 2009, 07:41 pm
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Default Re: Buy or run?

Is it a Chrysler dealer?
If so, I'd say make him a deal -
they clear the faults you listed.
Have them do timing belt & water pump & flush the transmission and give him $5,500.

I believe in '01, if you have traction control TRAC switch on dash - you have ABS. To confirm, just look inside a rear wheel - if you see a disk, you have ABS.
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"Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life,
nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge."
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'05 Limited Turbo Lite, (Silver, of course)4-wheel ABS, Sunroof, Spoiler. Mods: E&G Classic grill, K&N FIPK, BTG duals, rear lowered 1.5", LED washer lights, $20 catch can, Aoogah horn, Weatherflectors, Sunroof Deflector, Fuzzy Dice, rear logo flames, rear pinstripe graphic, Gen3 Taillights, rear sway bar, hood struts, Strut bar.
Traded in '02 Silver Touring Edition w/87,000 miles
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Old 05 Aug 2009, 08:30 pm
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Default Re: Buy or run?

Thanks for the advice.

The dealer isn't a Chrysler dealer and the area where I'm at has limited selections. Basically,if its not truck or diesel, everything else is a premium. Because of current finances, I am limited and the other PT's were grossly overpriced. ie, 03 manual with 55k and a dented hatch and poor interior went for $9.9K.

I'll find out tomorrow about the drive chain and other potential issues, but the initial indicators is the chain is still good.

So, should I avoid the vehicle for potential problems, or the money?

The only reason I'm looking for a car is my low milage /'00 Saturn was rearended by a 16 year old and the insurance declared it a total loss. They gave me a decent value $4.9K because it was low milage. The only other vehcile under $5k was a '01 Grand AM for $4.8K and it had 101K. I had checked about 12 dealers and the internet. To get decent used vehices, I'd have to travel around 75 miles away.



FYI, all other used cars here are over book.
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Old 05 Aug 2009, 08:42 pm
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Default Re: Buy or run?

It's a timing BELT. It should be replaced (water pump at same time) by 100,000 miles. It costs $700 - $1200 to replace.
The auto should be flushed every 50,000 miles - flushed by a flushing machine to get all the fluid - and be sure they use ATF+4 - runs approx. $200.
I'm just giving you things to expect. If they fix the other issues, you should be okay.
I'd change the oil as soon as I got it (so then you know when it was changed and what is in it, and do the wires and plugs (get aftermarket wires) - stop in if you get it...
__________________
"Anti-intellectualism has been a constant thread winding its way through our political and cultural life,
nurtured by the false notion that democracy means that 'my ignorance is just as good as your knowledge."
Isaac Asimov"

'05 Limited Turbo Lite, (Silver, of course)4-wheel ABS, Sunroof, Spoiler. Mods: E&G Classic grill, K&N FIPK, BTG duals, rear lowered 1.5", LED washer lights, $20 catch can, Aoogah horn, Weatherflectors, Sunroof Deflector, Fuzzy Dice, rear logo flames, rear pinstripe graphic, Gen3 Taillights, rear sway bar, hood struts, Strut bar.
Traded in '02 Silver Touring Edition w/87,000 miles
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Old 05 Aug 2009, 09:10 pm
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: WV
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Default Re: Buy or run?

Thanks Quicksilverdon, I stand corrected on the chain and belt. I was thinking of something else. Its always nice to know what to expect.

Are parts (pump and belts) hard to get?

I can afford the flush in several weeks, but will have to save some money to replace the rest. I hope I can wait until Feb to get the parts replaced. I drive 30 miles a day and 80% is highway but I do have to go through 10 lights.

I do wish I was in a better location and close to a dealer. Oh well.
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Old 05 Aug 2009, 09:28 pm
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Oregon.
Posts: 3,521
Default Re: Buy or run?

Quote:
Originally Posted by quicksilverdon View Post
It's a timing BELT. It should be replaced (water pump at same time) by 100,000 miles. It costs $700 - $1200 to replace.
The auto should be flushed every 50,000 miles - flushed by a flushing machine to get all the fluid - and be sure they use ATF+4 - runs approx. $200.
I'm just giving you things to expect. If they fix the other issues, you should be okay.
I'd change the oil as soon as I got it (so then you know when it was changed and what is in it, and do the wires and plugs (get aftermarket wires) - stop in if you get it...
Good way to lose your auto tranny as I did in my '01 at 81k. Every 30k alternate between a drain/fill and a full flush. This was told to me by the service mgr at my dealer when I questioned him about the crappy 41TE going out in my '01. No problem with my wife's '04 auto tranny with the alternating 30k schedule. The car now has almost 124k.
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