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Hi,
New to this forum. I've had a problem with starting my Cruiser. I've had it at the dealer and the charging system/battery are good. No error codes come up under the scope. It clicks but doesn't turn over. The day I bought the vehicle almost 3 years ago I had the same problem but played with the key and it did turn over on the 3rd try. Didn't think much about it at the time but over the past year the problem has gotten progressively worse. I need to get a boost almost every morning. During the day I can run around shutting it off and on many times with no problem. Two or three times my husband was able to start it immediately after I couldn't. One time I had it towed home in minus 30 degree weather because it wasn't starting even while trying to jump start it. The next afternoon it started just fine. What could be the problem if even the experts are stumped? Actually they think I'm an idiot because when ever I bring it in it starts just fine. ![]() Thanks |
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These intermittant problems are the most frustrating.
The click you mention is it a quiet click from inside or a louder one that you can hear and feel. The louder one may be the starter solenoid clicking but not connecting the starter motor. If it is that one, a new starter will fix the problem. If it is a quieter click, there is a relay that sends power to the starter solenoid that is clicking but not making contact. This part I know less about because I'm not a PT cruiser expert. Anyone else? A couple tricks to try for now that may help the mechanic trying to fix your PT. 1. Try start the car in neutral instead of park (keep your foot on the brake so your car does not roll). 2. Keep trying and retrying to start when you get the clicking. It may start after a few tries. 3 One old fashoned trick was to smack the starter with a hammer (not too hard). If that makes it start, you know for sure it is the starter. This should be done by someone who know what they are doing so you don't break the starter. |
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Agree with the others.
Try WalMart or Sears - I believe they will test your battery/charging system for free (in hopes of selling you a battery) -- Whacking the starter is to coax the solenoid ( the loud click) into moving and making contact. It could be: Battery Starter Ignition switch
__________________
'05 Limited Turbo Lite, (Silver, of course)4-wheel ABS, Sunroof, Spoiler. Mods: E&G Classic grill, K&N FIPK, BTG duals, rear lowered 1.5", LED washer lights, $20 catch can, Aoogah horn, Weatherflectors, Sunroof Deflector, Fuzzy Dice, rear logo flames, rear pinstripe graphic, Gen3 Taillights, rear sway bar, hood struts, Strut bar. Traded in '02 Silver Touring Edition w/87,000 miles |
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I had the dealer check all of the above. I had 2 AVR tests that came back "good". I have been trickle charging the battery because I read online that an alternator doesn't charge a battery when it's dead and it works great. . .for about 3 weeks and then guess what: YEP, Battery is dead but not empty enough for the interior lights/buzzers to not work.
Now I'm 4.5 hrs out of town and the darn thing won't start. I bought a new charger as I didn't have mine with me and it isn't charging/starting How many times can a battery die before it's toast? Shouldn't the warranty cover the battery even if the AVR says it's "good" when obviously it isn't? |
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Your battery is probably toast. Each time a battery is drained totally down, it shortens it's life.
Might have been a faulty battery to begin with, but no way of knowing that now. If you get someone to jump-start you, it's pretty well confirmation battery is culprit. |
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