Electrical issue?

[Hooligan]

Originally Posted by wbwalsh

I had the same thought... yes there is more weight on my keychain than my wifes and the issue does not often occur when she is driving.

You have any idea of a fix or replace cost?

Take some keys off!!!

[JOEMAMA]

Originally Posted by Hooligan

Take some keys off!!!

I have only one key and the fob on my key chain - has been that way since day one and I had the problem again last night.

For me, its only the warning lights that all come on - the gauges and backlights still work without any glitches. So far, the engine hasn't bogged down or cut out.

I'm not sure what the deal is, but hopefully someone figures it out soon.

[JOEMAMA]

It happened again today. This time the gauges also went out for a split second. I wonder if my alternator and or battery is starting to go. The instrument cluster seems to resetting itself due to a loss of power.

I have pulled on the keys and moved the steering column (tilt steering) while driving and I haven't been able to re-produce the symptom.

[Matt42]

How old is the battery? Friends over on the Chrysler Town & Country board (they also do Dodge Grand Caravans) report that an about-to-die battery will cause all sorts of electrical gremlins.

See: 2005 Town & Country LX Electrical Problems - The Chrysler Minivan Fan Club Forums

I am to some degree still living in the good old days when about all the electrical system did was run the starter, the lights and the battery. I am slowly getting educated. As far as electrical quirks go, there is some correspondence between the Town & Country minivans and the PT Cruisers.

[JOEMAMA]

The vehicle itself is only 3 years old. The original battery died about 6 months later. So the second OEM battery is a little over 2.5 years old. It was tested a few months ago and tested fine. But that being said, I don't trust the cheap Mopar batteries.

I have always had electrical issues - the headlights and other interior lights dim EVERY single time I hit the brakes when dirving in the dark. Its not minor dimming either - it is VERY noticeable. I have checked the ground to the body and it is fine.....I still need to check the wiring coming off of the battery.

I guess I'm going to need to invest in an Optima battery.

[Matt42]

Originally Posted by JOEMAMA

The vehicle itself is only 3 years old. The original battery died about 6 months later. So the second OEM battery is a little over 2.5 years old. It was tested a few months ago and tested fine. But that being said, I don't trust the cheap Mopar batteries.

I have always had electrical issues - the headlights and other interior lights dim EVERY single time I hit the brakes when dirving in the dark. Its not minor dimming either - it is VERY noticeable. I have checked the ground to the body and it is fine.....I still need to check the wiring coming off of the battery.

I guess I'm going to need to invest in an Optima battery.

I suggest that you think twice about the Optima. I used nothing but Optimas for many years until Johnson Controls closed their Colorado factory and moved production to Mexico. Then I started having nothing but trouble with Optimas. I've had three $150 Mexican-made Optimas give out at less than two years old. Now I am using US-made Dekka batteries in my truck, but for now I am having success with the $50 Checker house brand wet-cell batteries in my PTs.

You might be able to read this thread at the Turbodiesel register:
Optima Battery Install - TDR Roundtable

Here's the news item:
Aurora Battery Maker Moves Operations To Mexico - cbs4denver.com

A very good Diesel forum discussion
Optima Batteries made in mexico - Diesel Forum - The Diesel Stop.com

Your experience may vary greatly from mine!

[JOEMAMA]

Optima is officially out for me....I'll have to look around and see what else in out there....

[DMod]

Here is an update from me:

I haven't seen the issue again since I first posted this, until this weekend. I was driving on the highway and it happened about 4 times in a row to me. All the diagnostic lights would come on and go off, followed by the seat belt light, then it too would go off. Essentially the same sequence when I first start the car. Still didn't affect drivability at all. It was also bone dry outside, so I have ruled my water theory in my original post.

Still not sure what is causing it, as it is few and far between when it actually happens.

[JOEMAMA]

Originally Posted by DMod

Here is an update from me:

I haven't seen the issue again since I first posted this, until this weekend. I was driving on the highway and it happened about 4 times in a row to me. All the diagnostic lights would come on and go off, followed by the seat belt light, then it too would go off. Essentially the same sequence when I first start the car. Still didn't affect drivability at all. It was also bone dry outside, so I have ruled my water theory in my original post.

Still not sure what is causing it, as it is few and far between when it actually happens.

You're having the EXACT same problem as me.

I'm going to test the battery this week and I'll likely end up replacing it. I'm certain its either the alternator or battery - but after reading the Caravan forums, I'm strongly leaning towards the battery.

[JOEMAMA]

I took my Mopar Pro 60 battery (which was 30 months old) to be tested. The battery had lots of cold cranking amps left (490 out of 540), however, the guy said there must have been at least one cell dead inside because the battery failed the test. He tested it 3 times, just to make extra sure!

So, I went out and purchased a Energizer battery (from Wal-Mart) with a 3 year replacement/9 year prorated warranty. Its made by Johnson Controls.

After a lot of research I found that there are only two major battery companies around - Johnson Controls and Exide and they make 99% of batteries out there.

The Energizer battery was the best bang for the buck and offered the longest warranty for the price.

I'll report back and let you know if my problem is solved.