PT Cruiser V-6 Conversion!

[2002Gold]

Hi Rusty, before I had cut the cross member, I made some referrence marks on the under side of the driver and passenger side frames and took the measurement across from frame to frame, and to the ground. After the cut was made, I checked to see if these measurements had changed, they did not. All the measurements remained the same. I think it had something to do with the placement of the jack stands on the main suspension frame, shown in the 2nd picture below, which did not allow any movement after the cross member was cut. I also completed the welding of the main cross member driver and passenger side support brackets shown below in the 3rd and 4th pictures below. The holes on the two stubs of the main cross members will be trimmed and covered with plates and welded solid as well. As for where the half shafts attach to the brake rotors. If you look good at the picture below you will note that I have removed the outer cv joint (gold in color with gear teeth around it) from the half shaft, I then grinded off a portion of that outer cv joint, painted it and re-installed it. This is what keeps the rotor and bearing assembly in place. Your project idea sounds very interesting. After I started on my project, I did look at the Prowler drivetrain assembly and was very interested in using it. But I had already purchased most of the drivetrain components that I needed for my project. Other wise, I would have gone with the Prowler drivetrain. As for the electrical side of your project, my experience has shown me that it is best to use the same engine harness and computer from what ever donar car you chose. This will make things much easier for you, believe me! Thanks for sharing your project with us. Be sure to post pictures of your progress. I will be posting more pictures shortly. Thank you, Tommy.

[2002Gold]

Here's the new modified gas tank that I picked up yesterday from the shop. It is equipped with two roll-over vent valves on the top left, and right sides, and the sending unit and fuel pick-up tube is located inside of the middle recessed hole. The angle iron frame around the tank will sit flush with the trunk floor. Then the cover plate will be installed on the tank which will act as the new floor section that was removed, shown in the second picture below. The gas tank, angle iron and cover plate, is made of mild steel. The cover plate is 1/8" thick. The gas filler tube is welded in and is located on the other side of the tank. The mounting holes for the tank and cover have not been drilled yet. After I drill the holes, I will then be sanding, priming, and painting the tank and cover. Thanks for looking, Tommy.

[ejstith]

This is just an awesome post. What made you decide to go with a Jeep rear end? Did you think of a 4 link rear suspension and find it more difficult than leaf springs? Awesome!! This is so cool. I love those turbo Buicks but aren't they all fuel injected? Speaking of the injected Chevy V6 doesn't somebody make a stand alone electrical system for them rather than the entire brain out of the donor car? How would those guys put them in hot rods? I love those 3.8 Buicks but I think a 4.0 Ford would actually fit in there better than the Buick. I think they are a 60 degree motor, real skinny and there are tons of speed stuff for them. This is the most interesting post I've ever seen on here .. Good Luck ... Oh yeah, I'm an old dude too, you're just a punk kid compared to me ... lol !!!

[2002Gold]

ejstith, when I first planned the project, I intended on using a coil over rear suspension. My research told me that the 2002 Jeep Wrangler rear suspension was almost identical in length with my stock PT Cruiser rear suspension. Trying to avoid unecessary cutting of wheel wells and rear end axles, is what made me chose the 2002 Jeep Wrangler rear end suspension. And being that the stock PT Cruiser rear suspension uses coil overs, I thought it would make things easier. As I progressed with the project, I took a closer, real serious look at what it took to use a coil over suspension. That's when I then decided to go with a leaf spring suspension. Definately less structural work. The engine I'm currently using, is a carbureted rebuilt 3.8L, 231 cubic inch V-6, from a 1979-1983 Buick LeSabre. The later models came out with the Turbo engines and electronic computer systems. I may go that route later, not sure right now. Actually, I would be more interested in the Buick V-6 engine that uses the stock Supercharger. The engine I'm using has an after market cam, headwork, with lifters and springs. The crankshaft rotating assembly which includes the crankshaft damper and transmission flex plate, were balanced as a unit, to avoid vibrations downstream. As you can see from pictures previously posted, I'm using an Edelbrock intake, and I will be installing a Holley 4 barrel 390 cfm carburetor. Not the best, but good enough to get the car running. When I started on the project back in April of 2004, there weren't too many options for the Chevy 3.8 application. At that time I did look at the FAST electronic system, and till today I wish I had gone with it. Too late to cry now! The Buick 4.0 V-6 is the same size externally as the 3.8L V-6. Internally it is different. Back then, I did think of using the 4.0L V-6 engine, however, I kept reading horror stories of problems with the cooling system, overheating due to the design of the heads. So, that is why I sticked to the 3.8L V-6. We shall see what happens. I will be posting another picture soon of my progress. Thanks for your support and comments. Aloha, Tommy.

[2002Gold]

The main cross member, and the engine cross member, are now painted and will be installed shortly to illustrate how they are tied in together. Here is a shot of the main cross member brackets painted. Thank you, Tommy.

[quicksilverdon]

Originally Posted by 2002Gold

The gas tank, angle iron and cover plate, is made of mild steel.

It doesn't appear painted - aren't you worried about rust? I'd powder-coat it.

[2002Gold]

Originally Posted by quicksilverdon

It doesn't appear painted - aren't you worried about rust? I'd powder-coat it.

Yes, I will be correcting a problem I observed on the long side, of one of the angle iron pieces. It is not completely level. It has about a 1/8" downward bow in the center. Hard to tell by looking at the picture. It is the right side as you are looking at the picture. I need to correct this problem other wise it will place a warp in the floor. It must be as level as I can get it. Should be an easy fix. After I correct that, I will sand these items, prime them, then paint them. I generally use a high heat engine paint for items that are exposed to the elements. The bottom of the tank will be black in color, and the top section and cover plate will be gray in color. I would love to have these items powder coated, however, that option does not fit into my current budget. Thank you for your support and concern. Aloha, Tommy.

[quicksilverdon]

It can rust from the inside, too... "rust never sleeps"...

Beautiful work.

[2002Gold]

Originally Posted by quicksilverdon

It can rust from the inside, too... "rust never sleeps"...

Beautiful work.

Yes, I'm aware of this! I hope it does not become a problem for me. I have had many cars, and they all had steel gas tanks. I have not experienced any problems with rust build up inside any of the gas tanks, for any of the cars I have owned. I have read articles about people who did have problems. I can only hope I don't become one of them. I will have one fuel filter installed right outside of the gas tank, and another just before the carburetor. I hope it helps! Thanks again for your concerns and commemts. Aloha, Tommy.

[PTrockcruiser]

Nice project. You've given me hope on mine seeing how little firewall chopping was needed.
Couple questions. I read this post over sort of quick so I may have missed it. Do you have the rear axle in there yet? Did I read that you're going to use a rear axle from a 2002 Wrangler and convert to leaf springs? The dana 35 or 44?