Battery Cable Assembly... Whats the Deal

[PTGirl2001]

I needed to replace by battery cables. I called the Dealership for my positive one, since they are the only place you can buy it. I was quoted just over $65. A bit steep for me so I asked the tech I was talking to if there was any other way I could got about it. He said I, he was pretty sure I could just buy a plain old regular positive cable from Napa and be fine as long as it was the right length. I called my local auto store and checked to see that they had the negative cable in stock. Measured my cables, and purchased what I thought would work...

No dice! There are two problems. The first is the negative cable. It only has one place to ground to. While my manufactures grounded in two places. And they second is the generic Positive cable isn't set up for the remote jump spot.

Do either of these things matter? I work on the assumption no. Didn't get me very far. I attached the negative to the frame and not the space underneath and Attached the positive to the starter, skipping the remote start. I got no juice. A friend was giving me a jump and I couldn't even get the click or the starter trying to turn over.

Any advice? Should I just shell out the seventy bucks for the cable assembly? Is it the positive and the negative?

Thanks for all your help!

PTGIRL2001

[quicksilverdon]

Welcome.
I can't follow you.....I get things aren't working, but not sure why...
AdvanceAuto and others sell pre-made cables of varying lengths. Just be sure the thickness of the copper in the cable you buy is at least as thick (thicker is better - size does matter ) as stock.
I haven't follwed the stock positive cable on mine, but I did add another couple of ground cables, leaving the stock one in place.

[cjb15]

A couple of ideas. If you want just replace the main cables and the other smaller ground and positive wires are OK, you could attach the smaller wires with by crimping on an eyelet to the small wire and putting it under the nut of the batttery terminal.
Or you can buy universal battery terminal ends that have spot where you clamp down on the end of the bare wires to make the connection.
You'd have to put dielectric grease on the connections.
However, neither of these are as good as the sealed connection that comes with a cable assembly. But they are potentially cheaper. You'll probably have to check and clean these exposed connections more than a sealed cable.

[thender]

I just bit the bullet and bought the factory cable.

The cost was around $90, which included both positive and negative cables.

By the time you add up the cost for buying two generic cables, and the time needed to cobble together something that works, the cost isn't that much different.

Everybody puts a different value on their time.

If you ever need a jump start, you'll wish you had that positive jump terminal available. But that is a risk you may be willing to take....

As my dad used to say, "You pays your money and you takes your cherce"

-TH

[PTGirl2001]

All,
Thanks all for the great comments. After a night of sleepless thinking here is how I fixed the problem:

1: My stock cables weren't corroded or warn out, just my connectors. So I returned the generics that I purchased yesterday and bought two brand new connectors, the absorbent felt pads and the Petroleum Jelly used to protect the cables. The total was literally LESS the $10!

There are FOUR spots you need to disconnect to get your stock cable assembly out. For the Positive it is the the Starter and the Positive Jump Bolt (which is also connected to all of your fuses.) Just follow your positive battery cable up in to the back of it. for the Negative the Car Frame and a spot slightly under the starter. Its a total of Five Bolts (the Jumper Bolt has two). You may also have to cut away some tape at a couple of places the assembly is secured to the car. No big deal.

Getting to them is the tricky part
First DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY! To do this pop off the air filter cover and gently push aside. Now loosen the connectors. Like I said my connectors were bad so I barely touched the positive one and it fell apart (No wonder my battery wasnt charging or starting my PT!!!)

Pull out the Air Filter and the Box it is in. The box has two Rubber pegs that hold it in place. The box lifts out with a small bit of force. Pull straight up. Be aware: there is a Elbow Shaped PVC Hose coming out of your right side. Its not attached to anything but will bump the frame when you pull out the box. Be gentle so you don't bust it.

There is a bolt holding your battery in place at the front center of the base. Loosen it enough to get the battery out. Lift the Battery out. There are 6 bolts holding the base down, I think. Loosen them and remove the battery base.

Now you can get to all Four spots!

I Took the battery cables off in the dark with a girl friend holding a flashlight. I then went into my kitchen cut the wires and attached the new connectors. Then put everything back put everything back. This took maybe an hour.

I am not a mechanic. I didn't even know I had a place to jump start my car without moving the air filter the first time I needed a jump. When I changed my battery I followed step by step instructions off some eHow website. Ten Bucks and maybe a day (if you count how long my PT was out of commission)? I will take that over ninety dollars anyday

QUICKSLIVERDON - I think the problem I was having was that the battery HAS to be hooked up to the Jumper Bolt because it is also attached to the fuses there. What hit me was that even if you turn your inside lights completely off, when you open the door your mileage shows on the dash. That is what makes me think that you have to be attached up there.

Thanks EVERYONE!

[cdynaco]

Nice write-up. Thanx!

[Hooligan]

This should be made a "sticky"!!! There is a number of good tips included, not for just replacing battery cables.

[Chromenut]

Originally Posted by Hooligan

This should be made a "sticky"!!! There is a number of good tips included, not for just replacing battery cables.

Agree, and love the fact that a woman is admitting to a sleepless night over her PT!!!! I thought that was only guys....lol....

[quicksilverdon]

Originally Posted by cdynaco

Nice write-up. Thanx!

Agreed!

[ejstith]

I replaced the negative cable on mine. Got a heavy duty one at Autozone. I did have to put the end on the wire that went to the body port under the fender. It was sort of a pain but not impossible. I used tie warps instead of the tape to hold the cable to the brackets on the battery box. I got rid of all that wrapping that was on the original. It seems to me like these posts corrode worse than most cars. I put the felt things on the posts and greased them with dielectric grease and they still seem to try to corrode. The originals were corroded really bad.