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Winter storage...what to do?

 
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Old 15 Oct 2010, 08:51 pm
Young Cruiser
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
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Default Winter storage...what to do?

New guy here, had my Cruiser registered for about 5 hours now. Have not used a manual tranny in 5 years and had a great time out for the last couple hours.

Did a search for winter storage on forum and did not get any related results. Long story short, love the body style and want to make this thing last. Today my regular ride becomes the winter beater and the new2me 2002 Pt Cruiser becomes the summer hot rod... so to speak. I plan to drive it for a week then stick it in a garage till spring. I am assuming I should pull the battery and keep it in basement and charge it from time to time. Full tank of gas with stabilizer I assume.

Anything else that should be done?

Thanks,
Don

Last edited by Lakota; 15 Oct 2010 at 09:16 pm. Reason: removed attachment
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Old 15 Oct 2010, 09:18 pm
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Cool Re: Winter storage...what to do?

Tell her you love her, and cruise a little on good days.


I would start her up every week or so; even if it is blocked in with snow.
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Last edited by soonercruiser; 14 Dec 2014 at 10:21 pm.
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Old 15 Oct 2010, 11:57 pm
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Default Re: Winter storage...what to do?

Winter storage... you ask 10 people and you'll get 10 answers and they will all claim that their's is the right way to do it and everyone else is wrong. Mine gets driven all winter, but my MGB I drive it into storage, take out the battery and don't get to see it til spring. Come spring I plug in the battery, turn it over a few times with the distributor disconnected to get the oil flowing, and then connect the distributor, fire the beast up and drive it home
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Old 16 Oct 2010, 03:00 am
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Smile Re: Winter storage...what to do?

Hey their Lakota,

Welcome to the Forum! Now um....winter storage.....what is that winter stuff again? Sorry everyone, California joke.

And now for my best answer.

Proper Winter Vehicle Storage

Storing your vehicle - ranging from a convertible that's reserved for sunny days to a show car; for whatever reason, only requires a few precautions to ensure that it is preserved and will be operational after it’s in winter hibernation All cars hate to sit idle, so don't expect to top off the fluids and drive out of the garage. Also, notify your insurance company that you are storing the vehicle and tell them to make adjustment to the policy.

A little work now can protect a vehicle from rust, animals and other storage-related headaches. To help vehicle owners keep their stored vehicles in good shape, here are a few storage tips.

•Change the oil and filter.

•Replace brake fluid with DOT 3

•Do not drain the fuel tank, as an empty tank will cause condensation and it will start to rust! Top off fuel tank, then pour Stabil into the tank and run it for a few minutes (to get it into the fuel lines) If you don't cycle your fuel through the tank every two months, it starts an oxidation process and will turn into varnish over time, this can clog your fuel lines, One ounce protects three gallons of any type of fuel.

•Top off coolant with a 50/50 water and corrosion inhibitor and fill all fluids

•Spray distributor with WD-40

•Protect the paint, give the vehicle a good washing, dry it thoroughly and then apply an oil rich polish, buff the polish and then apply a second coat but do not buff

•Clean the interior of the car, apply a generous coating of Leatherique Rejuvenator oil to all leather surfaces, and use a box of some type of moisture absorbing products, also leave a bar of scented soap under the seats (vermin don't like the smell)

•Apply clear spray lubricant to seat rails and sunroof guide rails

•Apply a conditioner to `rubber' weather stripping (Zymol Seal)

•Apply leather conditioner to all leather surfaces.

•Close all windows, trunk, and hood, and stuff the exhaust so as mice do not enter, steel wool works better than rags as they cannot chew or use it for nesting material.

•Close windows but leave a small gap to ensure rubber seals are not completely flattened, same for doors, close to first `click'

•Over inflate the tires (50psi) Do not place car jacks as these will unload the suspension and may do harm. Some vehicles should not be stored with the suspensions unloaded (check with manufacturer)

•Store the car in gear; do not apply the emergency brake.

•Remove spark plugs and inject a little oil down into each of the cylinders.

•Remove the battery, clean and store separately (the myth about storing a battery on concrete is just that, a myth) coat the terminals with Wurth battery and terminal cleaner, do the same thing with the cable terminals, coat battery hold down bolts with WD40.

•Alternatively use a Battery Tender, a fully automatic two-stage lead acid battery charger, lightweight, compact size, trickle charger that assures batteries are maintained after charging. Ideal for all lead-acid, sealed maintenance free and gel cell batteries. After full 14.4 VDC charge is reached, converts to float charger and monitors battery at 13.2 volts. When voltage drops below 12.6 VDC, charger resumes charging back to 14.4 VDC. Two-color LED indicator, Spark-proof; reverse polarity protected, twelve-foot output cord and quick-connect harness. Comes with a set of quick disconnect clamps and rings

•Cover the car with a good quality cotton car cover. If you are storing the vehicle outside use a UV sunshade on the windshield and rear window, plus a car cover

•Place a plastic sheet under to the vehicle to avoid dampness capillary action and it will also form a moisture barrier.

•Store convertibles with the top up. Convertible tops can actually shrink if they are left in the down position, for an extended period of time.

•Inspect the vehicle from time to time and check to ensure that the moisture absorbing material is still operational



Start Up:

•When time comes to start the engine, pull the fuel pump relay/fuse and crank the engine without it getting any fuel for a while to prime the lubrication system/circulate the oil. This will avoid washing down dry the cylinder walls with fuel before it starts up.

•Assuming you heated up the car to full operating temp after changing the oil and filter (pre-storage) at start-up there should be only minimal deposits and contamination.

•Fill the stored car with low viscosity oil during storage and start the engine occasionally to ensure the oil and water gets a chance to circulate

•Drain the oil system and before replacing the oil and filter fill it with oil as this will enable oil priming upon start up and prevent dry cranking



A special thank you to a fellow Detailing Associate TOGWT for the preceding information in regards to winter storage of a vehicle.

If you Guys can think of more to add to the list, please do so and I will make adjustments to get it as complete as possible for a good write up.
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Last edited by Candyman; 16 Oct 2010 at 03:07 am.
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Old 16 Oct 2010, 04:39 am
Young Cruiser
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: London, Ontario, Canada
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Default Re: Winter storage...what to do?

I thank you all for the answers. I hesitated about asking at first, thinking it may be a dumb question, but apparently not. I had not even considered mice. Last year I had a major mouse nest built inside my lawnmower engine cover over the winter to the point the pull start was seized solid.
-Don
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Old 16 Oct 2010, 04:50 am
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Default Re: Winter storage...what to do?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lakota View Post
I thank you all for the answers. I hesitated about asking at first, thinking it may be a dumb question, but apparently not. I had not even considered mice. Last year I had a major mouse nest built inside my lawnmower engine cover over the winter to the point the pull start was seized solid.
-Don
I would have lured them all in and torched it.
Might get that grass cut in the process
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Old 16 Oct 2010, 08:17 pm
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Default Re: Winter storage...what to do?

the only thing that bugs me about storage is this: I once stored my daughter's Honda Accord over the winter--and I didn't start it up or run the A/C the whole time. Some spring, the A/C charge had leaked (I assumed due to not doing the weekly turning on of the A/C once a week).

So, if you're going to let the car sit idle all winter, you definitely want to have the A/C charge checked in the spring. If you run the compressor too long on a low gas/compressor oil charge, it can be very expensive to fix ....

Tim
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Old 17 Oct 2010, 03:24 pm
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Default Re: Winter storage...what to do?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lakota View Post
I thank you all for the answers. I hesitated about asking at first, thinking it may be a dumb question, but apparently not. I had not even considered mice. Last year I had a major mouse nest built inside my lawnmower engine cover over the winter to the point the pull start was seized solid.
-Don
Funny you should mention that, had a similar problem but with a BBQ, not thinking winter storage was necessary, needless to say, that BBQ got thrown out.
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Old 14 Dec 2014, 08:02 pm
Young Cruiser
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Posts: 78
Default Re: Winter storage...what to do?

I don't have a garage, so I will have to leave my Cruiser outside, it will be only for three weeks though. However, it might snow, go below freezing point, etc. Any additional recommendation on top of those listed before?
I was thinking to add Stabil, but I'm wondering it's necessary for only three weeks. Better safe than sorry?

Thanks!
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Old 14 Dec 2014, 08:39 pm
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Default Re: Winter storage...what to do?

Quote:
Originally Posted by siddharta1979 View Post
I don't have a garage, so I will have to leave my Cruiser outside, it will be only for three weeks though. However, it might snow, go below freezing point, etc. Any additional recommendation on top of those listed before?
I was thinking to add Stabil, but I'm wondering it's necessary for only three weeks. Better safe than sorry?

Thanks!
Nothing special needed - a bit of stabil shouldn't hurt, but shouldn't be needed.
Be ready to add air to tires and be ready with a jumper battery, in case, after the 3 weeks.
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