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Timing belt change

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 22 Dec 2012, 02:55 pm
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Default Timing belt change

Hello, Cruisers!

I'm proceeding with my timing belt change (02 PT with 2.4L), with the help of the Haynes manual. It's telling me that there is an upper and a lower torque strut, then proceeds to direct me to "Remove torque strut". I have a jack supporting the engine and the upper strut off, but is it necessary to remove the lower strut (and pencil strut), too? I don't see that it is in the way of anything.
It appears that I also need to remove the right side engine mount. That looks like fun.

Thanks!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
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  #2 (permalink)  
Old 22 Dec 2012, 03:44 pm
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Location: Lima, Ohio
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Default Re: Timing belt change

You have to remove the lower torque strut and pencil strut because you have to move the engine up and down to reach things and provide clearance as you're doing this job. I found it helpful to remove the right headlight too, but it's not required.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 22 Dec 2012, 05:38 pm
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Default Re: Timing belt change

Yeah, after watching a few videos on youtube, I see that I will need to jack the engine up and down.

Thanks for the response!

Steve
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 22 Dec 2012, 05:41 pm
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Default Re: Timing belt change

Also see my PM!!!
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 22 Dec 2012, 05:49 pm
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Default Re: Timing belt change

Quote:
Originally Posted by zamfir2 View Post
You have to remove the lower torque strut and pencil strut because you have to move the engine up and down to reach things and provide clearance as you're doing this job. I found it helpful to remove the right headlight too, but it's not required.
X2
Both arms have to come off and the pencil support, it all comes apart as a set. Your going to have to lift the front of the engine WAAY up to get the front engine mount bracket off. This is probably the most PIA about doing this job (IMHO).

If you don't want to discharge your AC, you can get around disconnecting the lines in front of the engine. It makes it a little tighter to work in the area, but it is worth it not having to fiddle with the AC. I also disconnected the AC compressor off the engine so when the engine went up the compressor stayed put, thus not jamming on your AC lines. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE PLUG ON THE REAR OF THE AC COMPRESSOR! it is not visible and will break if not unplugged. Mine was broke from the previous owners "crack mechanic" or should I say mechanic on crack.

Just thought I would pass along some tid bits. I worked out of the factory service manual, but the Haynes manuals are very good too. (I prefer them over the Chiltons)
Good Luck!
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Old 23 Dec 2012, 02:33 pm
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Default Re: Timing belt change

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
X2
Both arms have to come off and the pencil support, it all comes apart as a set. Your going to have to lift the front of the engine WAAY up to get the front engine mount bracket off. This is probably the most PIA about doing this job (IMHO).

If you don't want to discharge your AC, you can get around disconnecting the lines in front of the engine. It makes it a little tighter to work in the area, but it is worth it not having to fiddle with the AC. I also disconnected the AC compressor off the engine so when the engine went up the compressor stayed put, thus not jamming on your AC lines. MAKE SURE YOU DISCONNECT THE PLUG ON THE REAR OF THE AC COMPRESSOR! it is not visible and will break if not unplugged. Mine was broke from the previous owners "crack mechanic" or should I say mechanic on crack.

Just thought I would pass along some tid bits. I worked out of the factory service manual, but the Haynes manuals are very good too. (I prefer them over the Chiltons)
Good Luck!
Thanks, Motorhead -
By following the Haynes manual, the first thing I did was to have the A/C discharged. I've removed or shifted all of the stuff directed by the manual, and am now at the point where I need to remove the RH engine mount. This is where my next question comes in:
The engine mount appears to be in two parts: a sheet metal bracket bolted to the outboard body of the car with four or five 13mm bolts, and the big heavy cast iron part to which the P/S pump is attached. Is it necessary to remove both parts, or just the heavy one? I have the T55 Torx engine mount bolt removed. I guess this is where the engine jacking begins to access the bolts?

Thanks for all responses, and thanks to all for your welcome messages. I won't try to respond to each individually, but they are most appreciated.

Steve Byers
Havelock, NC
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  #7 (permalink)  
Old 23 Dec 2012, 03:57 pm
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Default Re: Timing belt change

I have been working around the bracket on the shock tower. The big cast peace definitely has to come off. That's one of the reasons for jacking the engine up for. When you get in there you will realize why all these things need to come out. I also chose to replace the cam & crank seals.
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Old 23 Dec 2012, 10:44 pm
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Default Re: Timing belt change

Good on disharging the AC. it will make working in the front area much easier.

But like I mentioned earlier Make sure you remove the plug on the compressor. It does not clear when the motor is lifted, and will break.

Once you remove that torx it is time to lift the engine. And be patient with taking off the long bolts that hold the heavy bracket on the engine, a bit of finagling will have to be done to get all 3 out (as well as putting them back in).

Good luck
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Red tint tails, chrome trimmed grille, custom towel rack buttonless flamed shifter, auto dimming rear view, Homelink remote transmitter, driver seat drawer, MOPAR sub, lowered 1" rear, MOPAR/Borla dual tipped exhaust, chrome trimmed GT gauge/airbag surround, front 35% tint, and the ever so important Fuzzy Dice
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  #9 (permalink)  
Old 23 Dec 2012, 10:48 pm
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Default Re: Timing belt change

Forgot to mention, (which you probably already know by now), you don't have to remove the motor mount that is on the engine cradle, just the heavy one on the engine.
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Red tint tails, chrome trimmed grille, custom towel rack buttonless flamed shifter, auto dimming rear view, Homelink remote transmitter, driver seat drawer, MOPAR sub, lowered 1" rear, MOPAR/Borla dual tipped exhaust, chrome trimmed GT gauge/airbag surround, front 35% tint, and the ever so important Fuzzy Dice
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  #10 (permalink)  
Old 24 Dec 2012, 07:37 pm
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Default Re: Timing belt change

Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorhead View Post
Forgot to mention, (which you probably already know by now), you don't have to remove the motor mount that is on the engine cradle, just the heavy one on the engine.
Thanks for the tips Motorhead. I had taken the A/C compressor off its bracket and moved it close to the center of the grille opening. The electrical connectors were disconnected and out of the way.

Anyway, success! I have everything off the engine down to and including the waterpump and didn't break anything (that I know of). While I wait for the kit to arrive at Autozone with the replacement parts, I'll clean up the engine a bit (it's pretty clean anyway). That was a heap of work just to get access to the third screw attaching the lower timing belt cover! .
One surprise was finding two large cracks in the rear plastic belt cover. Is that typical? I know the kit has replacement covers, but didn't think I would need them. Can't imagine that the thing would move enough to crack the way it's bolted in. It must be heat stress rather than cracking from vibration.

Thanks again to everyone for all the help and advice. I couldn't have done this as easily without you.

Merry Christmas to all, and to all a Good Night!
Steve Byers
Havelock, NC USA
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