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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 19 Jan 2013, 12:58 pm
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Default Elect problem

I have a 2010 PT. About a month ago I was using a air pump to pump up my tires when the pump just stopped working. I was using the cars Aux outlet on the dash area. Well I thought I had burned out the air pump but it worked all right using the power outlets on our Dodge Caravan so the pump was OK. As far as I know the newer PTs only have one fuse box and so I checked all of the fuses including #11 which is the Aux power supply and they were all good. I even replaced the #11 fuse. I wonder what else could be wrong. Still have NO power from the Aux power outlets, frunt or back, key on or off.
Yes I know that the newer PTs have a modern fuse/power buss that saves a lot of wireing.
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Old 19 Jan 2013, 03:55 pm
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Default Re: Elect problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by white View Post
Yes I know that the newer PTs have a modern fuse/power buss that saves a lot of wiring
...and makes it hard as heck to trace down any kind of electrical fault.

Just a thought. When I'm using my Black & Decker Air Pump to go around all the tires on all three of my cars (do it once a month) and a couple of them need air, the pump can overheat and the safety feature turns the pump off before it craps out. 5 minutes of cool down and it's OK again. Just maybe, when yours stopped working, it did the same. Cooled off before you tried the Caravan so it worked there. Did you try the air pump again in the same PT power outlet? Make sure it's making good contact.

If you looked at all the fuses, make sure everything else in the car is working as with the new CAN-BUS system, there's usually more than one thing that goes out, not like the first generation PT's.
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Old 19 Jan 2013, 04:53 pm
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Default Re: Elect problem

Fuse 11 provides power to the outlet in the console (armrest), if equipped. It can be installed in the TIPM (fusebox) in either of two positions...consult your owner manual...in the one position it receives power directly from the battery bus and is hot all the time...in the other position it is switched via the ignition switch and electronics in the TIPM. The instrument panel outlet is fused by fuse 16 and the rear outlet is fused by fuse 13...both are switched via the ignition switch and electronics in the TIPM. If after checking the fuses you still don't have any voltage at any of the outlets it would unfortunately seem to indicate a problem in the electronics in the TIPM.

Note that this information is specific for an 08 but your 10 may be similar.

Last edited by Carl48; 19 Jan 2013 at 04:56 pm.
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Old 19 Jan 2013, 06:10 pm
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Default Re: Elect problem

Sure thanks for the answers. I have pulled all of the fuses and put an ohm meter on them. And I just checked 11 & 16 again just now. When I plug the power cord in for the air pump there is nothing there, from either the dash or the rear location. And the cord is good also. O well, off to the shop.
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Old 19 Jan 2013, 07:40 pm
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Default Re: Elect problem

Your best bet at this point is a trip to the dealer...the TIPM may have to be "reset"...hopefully your 2010 is still under warranty.
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Old 23 Jan 2013, 01:18 pm
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Default Re: Elect problem

OK got it fixed yesterday. Cost me $200 with a oil and filter change and a $20 part. Ended up that the frunt power outlet was shorted out and that shut down the circuit. They needed a special tester to find out that there was a short. Then they replaced the power outlet part and everything is going again. I have the old part but cant see anything wrong with it even after I tear it apart. Great Fun. I wonder why just using a power air pump would do that?
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Old 23 Jan 2013, 01:32 pm
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Default Re: Elect problem

Quote:
Originally Posted by white View Post
OK got it fixed yesterday. Cost me $200 with a oil and filter change and a $20 part. Ended up that the frunt power outlet was shorted out and that shut down the circuit. They needed a special tester to find out that there was a short. Then they replaced the power outlet part and everything is going again. I have the old part but cant see anything wrong with it even after I tear it apart. Great Fun. I wonder why just using a power air pump would do that?
If you are the original owner. Should it be covered by the warranty? Should be detectable with a multi meter. Should also be some arcing or melting damage of some sort.
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Old 23 Jan 2013, 02:57 pm
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Default Re: Elect problem

No the warranty is only for the drive train (100,000). And I have 44,000 miles on it now. And yes if I had known I probably could have found a problem if I could have gotten the plug out, which I can't because I can't get down on my knees (getting toooooo old, to soon).
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