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-   -   03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention (http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/general-pt-cruiser-discussions/56455-03-lift-gate-handle-rust-prevention.html)

Flash619 15 Apr 2015 08:21 am

03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
Hello all, so I recently tore my lift gate handle off the back hatch because rust was building up behind it. (not sure how or why but the one stud was completely rusted out of the lift gate handle!) After fixing the paint/metal behind it, I've re attached a new lift gate handle with standard decal adhesive (and the two studs that go through the lift gate).

My question is this, I know originally they used strong double sided adhesive (which I couldn't find anywhere), so will the standard decal adhesive work as well? My only worry in the world is the stud rusting out again. :/

And now I'm thinking of sanding the entire hatch down to metal below the groove and repainting because its difficult blending the old/new paint and it may be less noticeable if done that way. If I had money I'd just have a pro repaint the entire back hatch, but I'm saving up my 800 dollars to get the rockers cut/welded.

Busted_PT 15 Apr 2015 08:58 am

Re: 03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Flash619 (Post 566142)
Hello all, so I recently tore my lift gate handle off the back hatch because rust was building up behind it. (not sure how or why but the one stud was completely rusted out of the lift gate handle!) After fixing the paint/metal behind it, I've re attached a new lift gate handle with standard decal adhesive (and the two studs that go through the lift gate).

My question is this, I know originally they used strong double sided adhesive (which I couldn't find anywhere), so will the standard decal adhesive work as well? My only worry in the world is the stud rusting out again. :/

And now I'm thinking of sanding the entire hatch down to metal below the groove and repainting because its difficult blending the old/new paint and it may be less noticeable if done that way. If I had money I'd just have a pro repaint the entire back hatch, but I'm saving up my 800 dollars to get the rockers cut/welded.

I don't know you capabilities are as a body and paint person. Or your equipment. But I use a DA and feather edge the paint. Then use a direct to metal high fill primmer. Three coats and then dust on a guide coat(usually a contrasting spraycan color). Just a dusting. Then block sand and reprime if necessary and block again. :cool:

Talk to rob342 on the tape for the hatch handle. He has the number of what to buy.:cool:

Flash619 15 Apr 2015 09:00 am

Re: 03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Busted_PT (Post 566147)
I don't know you capabilities are as a body and paint person. Or your equipment. But I use a DA and feather edge the paint. Then use a direct to metal high fill primmer. Three coats and then dust on a guide coat(usually a contrasting spraycan color). Just a dusting. Then block sand and reprime if necessary and block again. :cool:

Talk to rob342 on the tape for the hatch handle. He has the number of what to buy.:cool:

Well the hatch lever is already glued on ;) so umnnnn... pull it off? And by glue I mean that clear decal adhesive that did a lovely job of getting all over my new paint. -_-''' So I'd have to pull it, and then sand the back of the lever to get the stuff off. Thats what I get for taking advice from the guy at the car place.

Do you have to buy the sticky tape from Chrysler? Will the glue hold a few weeks until I can get the tape? (hopefully without rusting??)

By DA what do you mean? Can you explain what a guide coat is? Or rather, maybe a guide on how to use a guide coat? ^^;;; I'll admit I'm not a complete noob to painting, but painting on cars is very new to me, so I'm hoping to learn. (besides it cant get worst than the terrible blend job it already has ^^;;; as long as there's no rust I'm happy.) Who knows maybe 5 years from now I'll get it completely repainted anyways, idk, until then, I need a fix ;)

Busted_PT 15 Apr 2015 09:29 am

Re: 03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Flash619 (Post 566148)
Well the hatch lever is already glued on ;) so umnnnn... pull it off? And by glue I mean that clear decal adhesive that did a lovely job of getting all over my new paint. -_-''' So I'd have to pull it, and then sand the back of the lever to get the stuff off. Thats what I get for taking advice from the guy at the car place.

By DA what do you mean? Can you explain what a guide coat is? Or rather, maybe a guide on how to use a guide coat? ^^;;;

First that stuff is junk. Discovered that back in the 70's. I was very young at the time lol. Any way the guide coat is just a light dusting of a contrasting color spray over the primed area. You don't need any full coverage. Just an visable over spray. You then block sand the it off. You want to block sand in a crosshatch pattern to be sure your getting it straight in all directions. Low areas and pits will retain some of the guide coat. If you sand to the point that you begin to remove to much primer over that area and still have areas with guide coat showing. It may be necessary to reprime and guide coat again. If you block all the guide coat off and only have a a few bare places just reprime and sand for finish coat. This helps you get the surface flat and helps you to see the low areas as you go.

The first 9 pages show some body work and a example of the guide coat in use. There is more but that should get you going on that question you asked. :cool: Things are spread out all through the thread.:D

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...ct-1-a-24.html

Flash619 15 Apr 2015 09:35 am

Re: 03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Busted_PT (Post 566152)
First that stuff is junk. Discovered that back in the 70's. I was very young at the time lol. Any way the guide coat is just a light dusting of a contrasting color spray over the primed area. You don't need any full coverage. Just an visable over spray. You then block sand the it off. You want to block sand in a crosshatch pattern to be sure your getting it straight in all directions. Low areas and pits will retain some of the guide coat. If you sand to the point that you begin to remove to much primer over that area and still have areas with guide coat showing. It may be necessary to reprime and guide coat again. If you block all the guide coat off and only have a a few bare places just reprime and sand for finish coat. This helps you get the surface flat and helps you to see the low areas as you go.

The first 9 pages show some body work and a example of the guide coat in use. There is more but that should get you going on that question you asked. :cool: Things are spread out all through the thread.:D

http://www.ptcruiserlinks.com/forum/...ct-1-a-24.html

Do you have any recommendations for rust with the frame itself? I have no bad rust, but I've noticed my control arms have peeling paint, and my suspension support crossmemember on the passenger side (where the torque strut connects) has peeling paint and light surface rust starting. :/ (want this car to stay good and not die.)(The rust belt sucks.)

Is it better to try to blend the paint on the hatch with the old stuff? Or just draw a line somewhere? Whenever I use lines from tape or something, theres always a ridge where the new paint sticks up higher. ><

Busted_PT 15 Apr 2015 09:47 am

Re: 03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Flash619 (Post 566153)
Do you have any recommendations for rust with the frame itself? I have no bad rust, but I've noticed my control arms have peeling paint, and my suspension support crossmemember on the passenger side (where the torque strut connects) has peeling paint and light surface rust starting. :/ (want this car to stay good and not die.)(The rust belt sucks.)

Not sure were your from but feel your pain. I would get a 3m stripper wheel attachment for your drill and bust off the rust and pealing powder coat and use some rustoleum primer and paint. You can get it in semigloss and will look great when your done. This will slow the rust down a ton. Just keep it wash out under there from now on. That the best you can do. Thats why I like a manual car wash or pressure washer. Spraying underneath is as important as the out side. :cool:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Ubq8EuOPg6iwvA

Flash619 15 Apr 2015 09:48 am

Re: 03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Busted_PT (Post 566156)
Not sure were your from but feel your pain. I would get a 3m stripper wheel attachment for your drill and bust off the rust and pealing powder coat and use some rustoleum primer and paint. You can get it in semigloss and will look great when your done. This will slow the rust down a ton. Just keep it wash out under there from now on. That the best you can do. Thats why I like a manual car wash or pressure washer. Spraying underneath is as important as the out side. :cool:

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...Ubq8EuOPg6iwvA

What about rubberized undercoating?

Slowing it down? What about just plain out stopping it? I understand rust is a constant battle. lol I'm in eastern Wisconsin.

Busted_PT 15 Apr 2015 10:05 am

Re: 03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Flash619 (Post 566158)
What about rubberized undercoating?

Slowing it down? What about just plain out stopping it? I understand rust is a constant battle. lol I'm in eastern Wisconsin.

Undercoating over what you have will only seal in the rust along with the oxygen to feed it under there. You need to remove as mush as you can and treat it with products designed to keep it under control. Your in the worst areas all right for that for sure. The better you clean it off the longer you will have. But short of parking it in the winter in the garage. Your not going to stop it. But you can greatly prolong it with the effort your willing to make and proper cleaning and repairs.:cool: Anything that simply covers it up is not something that will make it go away. Most actually accelerate it. You might put some undercoat on after the fix. But you can periodically spray more paint on as you think it needs done. And see what is going on. Something you may not be able to see with the undercoat over it.:cool:

3rcruiser 15 Apr 2015 10:27 am

Re: 03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
undercoating works fine if you first get rid of all rust then coat it...auto armor cars for years back east...if it wasn't for that stuff a lot of my friends cars would be a rusty mess..that POR 15 stuff kicks ass too..hard as hell tough coating...used gallons of that stuff restoring old cars

Flash619 15 Apr 2015 10:49 am

Re: 03 Lift Gate Handle Rust Prevention
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by Busted_PT (Post 566161)
Undercoating over what you have will only seal in the rust along with the oxygen to feed it under there. You need to remove as mush as you can and treat it with products designed to keep it under control. Your in the worst areas all right for that for sure. The better you clean it off the longer you will have. But short of parking it in the winter in the garage. Your not going to stop it. But you can greatly prolong it with the effort your willing to make and proper cleaning and repairs.:cool: Anything that simply covers it up is not something that will make it go away. Most actually accelerate it. You might put some undercoat on after the fix. But you can periodically spray more paint on as you think it needs done. And see what is going on. Something you may not be able to see with the undercoat over it.:cool:

True, but what I mean, is is it possible to keep the metal from decaying to nothing over time? I mean, if you keep the rust down to a minimum, will it prevent eventual structural damage/having to cut and weld frame pieces?

I meant use the undercoat after the rust was removed. :) But would undercoating, or rustoleum be better?


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