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Motor mounts changed this evening

 
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Old 13 Apr 2016, 11:08 pm
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Default Motor mounts changed this evening

The first 2 parts of my Rock Auto order arrived today so I was able to change the upper and lower engine strut mounts to my 2009 Base Cruiser and boy did it make a difference!

This is a "new" car for us purchased on Easter Sunday afternoon.

NitroPT gave it a thorough examination and spent a huge amount of time diagnosing it and reviewing my order. A Big thank you again to him.

The first order of business was to fix the malfunctioning radiator fan until the repaclement came in. Being an EE, I figured it out pretty easily and put in a cabin switch to operate the fan relay while still keeping the PCM happy by feeding it a 100 Ohm load to think it's still controlling the relay solenoid.

Back to the subject at hand. It took a little over an hour going slowly to replace both the upper and lower struts and adjusting the engine to keep the 119mm spacing.

Here is a picture of the lower front bushing. The lower part was essentially floating as well as the upper part.


I was guided to purchase the version for the manual transmission (I have and AT) with the caveat that I might need to open up one of the bolt holes, but in reality the bolts fit snugly but perfectly.

Here are both of the new struts:


and the old lower next to the new lower:


After replacing them with the bolts still loose, I tried to get the 119mm spacing set but I was only able to get it to about 116-117mm. I tried adjusting the engine back and forth with a jack lifting the engine but with just about zero pressure on the jack, the max distance I could get was that length. Oh well, it was certainly better than the neutral position for the bolts to feed in which was about 110mm.

After buttoning up the car, I took it for a test drive and it was like night and day. A "floating" engine feels like you are sitting on a chair with the front two legs off the ground. Now it feels firm and I can really feel the engine putting the power to the pavement.

Most notable was the elimination of the "clunk" when accelerating from coasting at low speed.

Thanks again to this forum and most notably NitroPT.

I'm now doing a multi-day flush of the radiator. Next comes the front shocks and lower control arms.

Last edited by rsrocket1; 08 Dec 2017 at 02:18 am. Reason: change links to imgbox instead of Photof*cket
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Old 13 Apr 2016, 11:22 pm
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Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
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Default Re: Motor mounts changed this evening

Quote:
Originally Posted by rsrocket1 View Post
The first 2 parts of my Rock Auto order arrived today so I was able to change the upper and lower engine strut mounts to my 2009 Base Cruiser and boy did it make a difference!

This is a "new" car for us purchased on Easter Sunday afternoon.

NitroPT gave it a thorough examination and spent a huge amount of time diagnosing it and reviewing my order. A Big thank you again to him.

The first order of business was to fix the malfunctioning radiator fan until the repaclement came in. Being an EE, I figured it out pretty easily and put in a cabin switch to operate the fan relay while still keeping the PCM happy by feeding it a 100 Ohm load to think it's still controlling the relay solenoid.

Back to the subject at hand. It took a little over an hour going slowly to replace both the upper and lower struts and adjusting the engine to keep the 119mm spacing.

Here is a picture of the lower front bushing. The lower part was essentially floating as well as the upper part.


I was guided to purchase the version for the manual transmission (I have and AT) with the caveat that I might need to open up one of the bolt holes, but in reality the bolts fit snugly but perfectly.

Here are both of the new struts:


and the old lower next to the new lower:


After replacing them with the bolts still loose, I tried to get the 119mm spacing set but I was only able to get it to about 116-117mm. I tried adjusting the engine back and forth with a jack lifting the engine but with just about zero pressure on the jack, the max distance I could get was that length. Oh well, it was certainly better than the neutral position for the bolts to feed in which was about 110mm.

After buttoning up the car, I took it for a test drive and it was like night and day. A "floating" engine feels like you are sitting on a chair with the front two legs off the ground. Now it feels firm and I can really feel the engine putting the power to the pavement.

Most notable was the elimination of the "clunk" when accelerating from coasting at low speed.

Thanks again to this forum and most notably NitroPT.

I'm now doing a multi-day flush of the radiator. Next comes the front shocks and lower control arms.
Did you check the I.D. of the bolt holes comparing it with the original torque struts?
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Old 14 Apr 2016, 08:04 am
rsrocket1's Avatar
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Default Re: Motor mounts changed this evening

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptcruisersteve View Post
Did you check the I.D. of the bolt holes comparing it with the original torque struts?
Not with calipers, but using the original bolt as a crude "pin gauge" showed that they were identical as far as I could feel.

Part I bought and installed:
Anchor 2949 Front Lower; Standard trans.

Part "recommended" by the Rock Auto parts catalog:
ANCHOR 3169 Front Lower; Automatic trans.


EDIT:

I just did a search on the mount and what else, it came back to this forum and a thread discussing this exact issue 3 years ago.

Post #16 points to a Technical bulletin by Anchor.
Bulletin Summary:
2949: Not notched, smaller hole. Not usable on turbo, use it on non-turbo.
3169: Notched, bigger hole, for turbo, not recommended for non-turbo because of the bigger hole

HOWEVER
This bulletin is over 4 years old.

In 2016 reality:
2949: Smaller hole, notched, proper fit in my 2009 non-turbo auto transmission car.

Fortunately NitroPT gave me a tutorial last week about all the part number shenanigans that manufacturers have to play in order to satisfy big retailers who are their main customers. There's a very good chance that had I bought the 3169, it may have the same part in the box.

Last edited by rsrocket1; 14 Apr 2016 at 08:29 am. Reason: Additional information after EDIT mark
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