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A short guide to the 2nd gen power window switch

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Old 30 Apr 2016, 10:35 pm
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Default A short guide to the 2nd gen power window switch

I recently bought a 2007 PT Cruiser limited as a present for my wife. She doesn't know I'm on this forum, so it can't ruin the surprise, so I can post it while it's still fresh. The 5-gang power window switch in the dash was sticking in the auto down position for the passenger front window. Originally I didn't notice it was the switch, so I was blaming the regulator motor, but lucky for me I did notice the switch was just getting stuck. I read a bunch of threads that said this switch wasn't serviceable at all and that I should just get a new one. I bought a used switch off of ebay and it arrived with a different problem - drivers window would not go up. At this point I have 4 days until my wife is back and with OCD kicking into overdrive I just can't give her a present that's not in immaculate condition, so... if something isn't coming apart you're just not using a big enough hammer.

Armed with a full blown electronics repair shop and about 7 toolboxes worth of mechanics tools I thought I was well on my way to success.

I took the switch out and was wondering if I should just use a hammer on it.

I quickly realized that the spare key to the PT cruiser was the only "tool" I needed to take apart the switch. The back cover is held in place with 4 little tabs and pops off easily. At this point I was staring at the piece that seemed to have been assembled in a way that you couldn't disassemble it without unsoldering the PCB, but that's only at first glance.

The next step to disassembly is popping off the four knobs that toggle the switch.

This is again done with the car's own key by simply gently prying from underneath. They pop right off. Don't worry at this point if the blue transparent toggle pieces pop out of their hinge in this step, this is nothing to worry about.

After the four knobs are off you can pull the assembly out of the housing.

Make sure you're pulling straight down - that little see-saw contact under the rear window disable switch is not actually attached, so make note of its position and make sure not to lose i t.

DO NOT FIDDLE WITH THE BLUE TOGGLE SWITCHES as in do not play with them. If you try to engage and go too far the little pins with the little springs will go flying out and good luck finding them. I found them, but it took a while. If you gently work the switch out of the hinge they actually stay in the blue piece and don't fall out, just do so straight up.

You can see in this picture how the auto-down function works. There's actually an SMD microswitch soldered onto the green PCB and there's a little push rod that goes through the white board that engages the switch. There's an extension on the blue toggle part that engages the push rod. In my case it was this extension that was broken off and was making the switch stick in auto down.

Good on the left, bad on the right.

Lucky for me all four blue toggles are identical and there are no auto down switches on the rear windows. In fact there's a mechanical stopper on the housing which prevents the switch from ever traveling that far down, so if you're this far into it I recommend you just move the lower toggles in place of the upper ones even if your problem isn't with the toggles. They're basically brand new in the weakest point and why not have the extra insurance. My switch was fixed at this point.

There's also eight of these contact parts in the switch.

If your issue is weak or no engagement of the motor it's likely that these contacts are either bent or burnt. Just use the rear window contacts for reference since they're usually least used and bend them back into shape if that is your issue. If they are burnt try to use a dremel with a polishing wheel and soft compound to remove the burn from the contact. You could file or sand, but polishing works best here. If your issue is a burnt contact you will also have to clean the contact in the white board. Also use polishing if possible to clean that up.

Since you're now assembling the switch back it is nice to know that there are two different types of the actual switch toggles.

The one from the front windows has a tab on its right side, not sure why, I didn't find any useful function that it served. It also has provisions for backlighting a little spot on the button, but after tracing both of my switches I found that even though the bulbs were there they aren't actually connected to any pin. It can be made to work, but unsoldering the green PCB is a chore and not worth it. You can put LEDs in there if you really want, just look at the switch pinout for power and ground, but only the front window switches have that.

The one on the right is for the bottom two switches for rear windows.

This little guide is for P/N 12862726.

Good luck, have fun, don't throw away a perfectly serviceable part.
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