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Refurbishing the power window switch in 2nd gens

 
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Old 03 May 2016, 12:06 pm
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 8
Default Refurbishing the power window switch in 2nd gens

Trying this again, this time with properly sized pictures.

The power window switch should rarely really need replacement, since it is a highly serviceable part.

Tools needed: flathead screwdriver, polishing tool or small files.

P/N: 12862726 is that's on the sticker on both of the switches I had on hand.



Getting the switch from the center panel is easy enough, the red tab being the hardest part. Once it's out it will look something like this:



Separate the back cover from the switch. It's held on by 4 tabs and gently lifting up the plastic with a flat head screwdriver works great.

Separate the black power window levers by gently prying them with a flat head screwdriver working your way around them if they are stubborn. Don't worry if the blue transparent parts seem to have come out of their places - we'll be removing them anyway.

This is what you will be looking at at this point:


After this the PCB with the switches will just slide out. Make sure you're sliding it out with the switches oriented up.

The reason for doing it with the switches up is the little piece that engages the rear window disable switch. You can see it in the middle in the next picture and it isn't actually held on by anything. It's small enough to get easily lost.



The problems that you usually encounter with these switches is that either some position stops working or the auto-down can get stuck. One of my switches wasn't moving the driver's window up and the other one was getting stuck on passenger side auto-down. I originally thought it was a window regulator problem until I noticed the switch sticking.

Let's examine what causes both problems.

Issues with engaging a position on the switch would usually be burnt contacts.

Here a driver's side up contact is burnt. It's best to clean it up by using a polishing wheel on a rotary tool, but a file or sandpaper will also work. There's a coating on the contacts, so try to be gentle.



The moving contacts will also need to be cleaned.


The window sticking in the auto down position is related to the blue toggle switch breaking a piece off. The way auto down works is that there's an SMD micro switch on the green PCB underneath the white plastic board. The way it is engaged is by a push rod that goes through the white plastic board and presses on the switch. There's an extension on the blue toggle switch that engages this push rod.

Push rod location circled. It is only present for the front windows.


The extending part of the blue toggle is circled. Left is good, right it broken.


To fix this issue simply unclip all of the toggles and swap front with rear. When working with the blue toggles, absolutely DO NOT play with flipping the switch up and down. There's two little pins with springs inside and there is nothing preventing the switch from going too far and they will fly out. They are quite small and difficult to find once they do fly out. If you gently lift the toggle up, they just tend to stay inside. Still make sure you don't lose them. The toggles are identical and the rear ones have never actually used this part of the toggle. There's a mechanical stopper on the outside of the body of the switch which prevents it from ever hitting the board. If you rarely use your rear windows I'd also swap the contact strips front to back.

Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Pay attention to the little contact for the rear windows disable switch. It needs to be on the right way for the switch to go back together.

Now, the actual black toggles that are on the outside are different for front and back windows.

The fronts have a little extension on the right of the toggle and they also have a back light opening in the center.


Speaking of back light on the buttons, both of my switches had good bulbs, but the pins to light them up were disconnected from the factory. Not sure why that is. I didn't bother to make them work since taking apart the green pcb from the white plastic board requires quite a lot of unsoldering at awkward angles and it just wasn't worth it for me.

The entire process of refurbishment takes about 15 minutes including pulling the switch out and having a root beer in between.
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Old 03 May 2016, 03:13 pm
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Default Re: Refurbishing the power window switch in 2nd gens

Good job, on the job and with the pictures.
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