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2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

 
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Old 14 Jun 2016, 12:41 pm
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Default 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

The front driver's window is stuck up. I pulled the door apart and saw a bit of bare wire on the pigtail and thought that was the issue. I tested a new motor and it would only work in the up position so I popped the switch off and found a burned contact in there.

Should I just pop new switch in or should I replace both the window motor and switch? I don't want a new switch to get fried, but am not sure how to test the window without the new switch in.
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Old 14 Jun 2016, 01:08 pm
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Smile Re: 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

Was the bare wire actually shorting on something? If not, it's more likely just a duff switch. The quickest way to test, is to just fit the switch, obviously.

If you really want to test the window mech, then all you need is two wires and a battery. Disconnect the motor inside the door, connect your two wires to the motor and touch one on each side of the battery poles, then reverse those connections at the battery to make it run in the other direction. If the window mech travels fully without binding, in both directions, then there's nothing wrong with it
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Old 14 Jun 2016, 02:25 pm
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Default Re: 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

Welcome to the forum from Texas.

I agree with Spannerhound on checking the motor. Do you have any "wrecking" or U-pull-it yards close? When my switch went up in a cloud of smoke, I went to my local yard and picked up a switch for very little money. IF your motor is bad, I'm sure they are available also.
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Old 14 Jun 2016, 03:52 pm
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Default Re: 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

Take a fine piece of sandpaper and file the contact. I don't know how many switches I've saved doing this. A small flat tip screw drive will separate it if they're stuck together. Just a little light pressure. Don't bend it.
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Old 14 Jun 2016, 04:36 pm
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Default Re: 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

I would use a clamp on amp meter to see what the actuator motor is drawing. If it is drawing too many amps, that could be why your switch cooked.It just might be the motor or the mechanism itself binding and putting strain on the motor.
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Old 14 Jun 2016, 05:26 pm
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Smile Re: 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by alanrw View Post
I would use a clamp on amp meter to see what the actuator motor is drawing. If it is drawing too many amps, that could be why your switch cooked.It just might be the motor or the mechanism itself binding and putting strain on the motor.
I agree that would be the definitive test, assuming that:

1. Information on that particular motor is available
2. You have a clamp meter capable of measuring DC current.

I have yet to see one of these cheap motors that has current ratings or even stall current listed on the label. If there's anything at all is on the label, it usually just says 12V, along with manufacturers part numbers
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Old 15 Jun 2016, 12:40 am
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Default Re: 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

OK, so I grabbed a switch from the bone yard and the windows are acting weird. The drivers front went down but got stuck temporarily. The dome lights dimmed a little extra when trying to get it to go up and I could smell the switch working extra hard (popped it open and didn't see any burned contacts).

The drivers rear got stuck down also but eventually went up.

I'll try cleaning the contacts on the newer switch, and will also hook up a refurb cardone motor I ordered at O'Reily to see if I can cross some things off the list.

Can't stand having window issues with no AC working in this heat.
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Old 15 Jun 2016, 01:58 am
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Smile Re: 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

Place a multimeter across the motor wires and measure the voltage when you are operating the window. If the voltage drops much below about 10V, the window mech will struggle, even if it is good.

I have a question. Did this just suddenly happen, i.e before the switch died every window worked normally? I'm finding it hard to believe in the coincidence of both front and rear window mechanisms going faulty at the same time.

I'm wondering if perhaps one of the front window mechanisms jammed with the switch also jammed on, causing a wire burn with the stall current over an extended period of time. Hence my suggestion of taking a voltage reading to make sure that the motors, are in fact, getting the full 12V like they should. If you have the full 12V or close thereto across most of the range of movement, it points more to the motors struggling, but if not, more to the switch and wiring

Ok, I have to also ask the obvious at this point, your battery is fully charged, right??
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Old 01 Jul 2016, 02:14 pm
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Default Re: 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

The battery is new. The boneyard switch I popped in also shorted. Not sure when or how, but I can hear the motor try to engage up, but nothing down. Obviously, the downward motion is frying something on the original motor.

I bought a voltmeter ($6 harbour freight) but I have yet to acquire any useful skills with it.

The car does other weird electrical things, so not real sure where to start. I did pull a TIPM from the junkyard to see what it looks like, so now I can pull out the one in the car and give it a good look over.

Other things the car is doing:
CEL light on for cylinder 3 misfire. Sometimes it flashes when at a stop light for an extended period of time. Start to move and it stops flashing. (Just did plugs/wires/air filter in April and it fixed this issue until last week). Doubt this has anything to do with the electrical in the window but who knows. It is getting the best gas mileage it has ever had (26mpg hwy) and runs pretty smooth at speed. Idle might be a little rough. sits between 650 and 720rpms.

The car cuts off on occasion. Can't pinpoint anything in particular...usually only notice it when you go to turn and steering is hard, or step on peddle and realize you are slowing down. Happens once every few weeks.

When head lights are on and you use right turn signal with dash dimmed pretty low, everything gets bright on dash/clock/radio. If dash lights brightness is turned up and right blinker is activated nothing happens, except display below fuel/temp gauge gets dimmer. Also think its weird that the shift selector/trip gauge stays bright no matter what. Can't dim it all, not sure of that is supposed to be like that or not. Here is a quick video of the weird blinker action:
https://youtu.be/6Z1CtFg-SZ0

The gas gauge doesn't always register as full.

No other cel codes at all.

Pic of burnt window switches is attached.
IMG_20160701_134158911.jpg

Last edited by Amtrak23; 01 Jul 2016 at 02:30 pm.
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Old 01 Jul 2016, 02:36 pm
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Default Re: 2006 window switch circuit burned with window stuck up?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Amtrak23 View Post
Other things the car is doing:
CEL light on for cylinder 3 misfire. Sometimes it flashes when at a stop light for an extended period of time. Start to move and it stops flashing. (Just did plugs/wires/air filter in April and it fixed this issue until last week). Doubt this has anything to do with the electrical in the window but who knows. It is getting the best gas mileage it has ever had (26mpg hwy) and runs pretty smooth.
I will leave it to others to help with the electrical problems, but regarding the misfire:

What year is this car and is it a turbo? Have you done a compression check? Check the fuel pressure at the rail?

It sounds like you can scratch off the plugs and wires for the misfire, but you never know. Generally, like anything in a car you going to be looking at spark, fuel or compression. Is it sparking properly? Did you check the injector for leaking/O-rings? Do you smell gas? My car had a misfire on cylinder #4 that turned out to a piece of intake gasket blocking the injector port. Intake gaskets on the aluminum manifold turbo cars are a common cause of misfire codes, particularly at #4.

The flashing CEL is probably for raw fuel getting to the cat. When they run super rich (misfire) that will happen. I think with the misfire the gas can pool up at idle and then travel through and get to the cat (or presumably the 02 sensors warning you that they are going to get to and ruin your car)
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