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How to add Fog lights to your PT. (Guide)

 
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Old 20 Aug 2016, 12:13 pm
Cool Cruiser
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 406
Default How to add Fog lights to your PT. (Guide)

This is a guide on how to install Fog lights, on a PT Cruiser. The model used for this guide is an 05' all parts and fitment in the guide are in reference to this. This guide will not work on 06' and later and parts are not guaranteed to interchange, Prior to 05' must use best judgement to ensure proper compatibility.

Background: The PT cruiser from the factory has at least 2 different configurations for wiring harnesses. The engine bay almost always has the electrical connectors for the fog light bulbs clipped to the bumper behind the cover where the fog lights are supposed to be located. The Interior has 2 options for interior wiring harnesses, One that contains the wires and connector sleeves for fog lights, and one that does not. The 05' PT used in this guide, Did not have wiring pre installed and all wiring was inserted by hand.

Parts/tools: To add fog lights you will need:

Multifunction switch w/Fog lights
https://www.amazon.com/CRUISER-MULTI...ion+switch+fog

Two housing with bulbs
https://www.amazon.com/CHRYSLER-CRUI...ser+fog+lights

The wiring diagram and install procedures for the mopar fog light kit (discountinued).
(file is too large for me to attach, but can be found Mopar Accessories 82205451 | Buy Mopar Accessories Fog Lights at JEGS
at the bottom of the page under instructions.)

About 30 ft of wire.

Soldering iron, and solder.

Screw driver, a needle, small ratchet & socket, and possible panel pullers.

The last item you need is very hard to find, but necessary to ensure a factory wiring replication.
You need the metal sleeves out of the connectors for the entire fog light circuit. If your PT is pre-wired for fog lights, you do not need them as they are already installed, but If it is not prewired you need them.
I found mine in a junkyard PT, none of the dealerships had them, and I could not find them online.
Once you understand and trace the wiring circuit you will know what pins need to be pulled from another PT.

Part 1: Tear the dash apart.
First step is going to be getting access to the connectors needed to wire in the fog lights. You need to remove the gauge cluster to access the connector for the dash light, and you have to remove the multifunction switch in the steering column, Removing the wheel wells will allow access to the fog light housing mount points.
To removed the guage cluster you need to first unplug the window motor switches at the top of the radio bezel. This should pop out when the top or bottom is pried from the bezel. Once removed there is a screw that holds down the entire radio bezel. The radio bezel can then be swiftly yanked out, and you may then proceed to pick up all the HVAC knobs off the floor. There is then 2 screws that hold the top deck of the dash. Before removing the top deck of the dash, Pull the two A pillar covers off. Then pull the top deck of the dash towards you and up. This should free the entire top section of the dash.
Then proceed to take apart the steering column, removed the screws on the bottom of the column to remove the shroud around the column. The multifunction switch should come out after removing the two screws that hold it down. Replace it with the new multifunction switch when putting everything back together.
The bottom section of dash under the steering column should swing open with a yank from the top of that section directly under the steering column. The section to the left that contains the fuse access hatch should also be removed after removing the two screws holding it in place along the right edge of the now exposed area.
The bezel around the gauge cluster should now come straight out with a yank. Careful of the trip button and the turn signal wiring.
The guage cluster should be held down by 4 screws located around the cluster. Once those are removed the cluster can be removed by pulling out and tilting up with a yank. Don't tilt too far and dont pull too hard, It is only held in by the force of the pins in the connectors and should slide right out.

At this point the entire dash should be apart.

Following the install kit from the mopar kit should be fairly straight forward, the hardest part is running all the wires and ensuring the factory pin sleeves are installed in the correct location. I pulled the actual wires from another PT so my terminal pins exit to the correct factory color before being soldered to another wire to connect them.

the first wire will connect the Headlight relay to the fuse. There should only be 1 open pin on the headlight relay from the back side of the fuse block under the dash. This will connect to the fuse pin along a 4 inch long wire to the fuse location in slot 10 (might be a different number, check owner manual) under the dash. The other side of the fuse will snake up to the multifunction switch and insert into slot 13 of the 20 pin connector. Slot 14 in the 20 pin connector is the continuation of the circuit witch will have to connect through a splice to the fog lights and the instrument panel indicator light. The instrument panel connector that you plug into is the small 8 pin connector on the left side (looking at the guage cluster head on from the driver seat) simply pop it off the plastic panel it is on and slide the metal sleeve into the connector into cavity 1. From there it will ground out through the common ground to the gauge cluster.

The wire from the gauge cluster to the multifunction switch should have another wire connected to the same wire (you have to solder it this way). That wire will go through the firewall and to the fog lights. Once you snake it through the engine bay in your favorite manner. Simply splice it into the power side of the pre installed fog light connector behind the bumper. If you splice into and leave the rest of the circuit intact, then you will provide power to both bulbs and they will ground through the common ground they share.

At this point plugging in the cluster and the Multifunction switch, and a fuse. You should be able to operate the fog lights. If they do not work, Something has been incorrectly installed. Refer to the wiring diagram at the end of the mopar kit's instructions. Reassemble the dash in reverse order and enjoy the new fog lights.

Further explanation of the circuit.
Power is provided by the headlight relay when the high beams are not on. Power flows through the relay (which is located under the dash) to the fuse (also under the dash). It then travels to the MFS in the steering column. When the headlights or low beams are on, The switch can be pulled out, to allow power to continue flowing through the circuit. This is achieved by a spring tensioned band that bridges two terminals, It is held open when the switch it pushed in, and allowed to drop crossing the terminals when the fog light switch is pulled out. This commonly gets stuck when the pin breaks, and/or the track guiding the band starts to melt and hold the band down. This is a common problem with MFS's as the additional current from the fog light circuit heats up the plastic housing the MFS and starts to melt the case, which in turn leaves the fog lights on, draining the battery. From the MFS the power then splits towards two locations. One flows to the bulbs to light them to be grounded out afterwards. The other flows to the gauge cluster and illuminates the fog light symbol in the dash, it is then grounded along the common ground for the gauge symbols.

I am posting this, because when I went to install fog lights for my own PT I could not find all of this information in one place. Please share with anyone who wants to know how to add fog lights to their car. If you have any questions, you can ask me and I will do my best to answer. You may repost this with proper credit and may even retype and post pictures for this guide.
__________________
03' Dream Cruiser Manual: 130k Stage 1, BOV, Koni Shocks, Eibach Springs/Sway Bars, TSW 18x8 Rims, Composite Manifold, 3inch Catless
Downpipe w/Cutout, Magnaflow Catback, Quaife LSD

04' GT Manual Purple PT Mileage: 95k (Died Spring 2018)
05' N/A Automatic Red PT Mileage:121k (Died summer 2017)
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Old 20 Aug 2016, 12:33 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Sep 2001
Posts: 27,744
Default Re: How to add Fog lights to your PT. (Guide)

Thanks. Added it to the HOW TO section.
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  #3 (permalink)  
Old 22 Aug 2016, 10:47 pm
Cool Cruiser
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Howell, MI
Posts: 406
Default Re: How to add Fog lights to your PT. (Guide)

This is to show that I actually did add fog lights and got them to work.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg PTfog.jpg (98.2 KB, 41 views)
__________________
03' Dream Cruiser Manual: 130k Stage 1, BOV, Koni Shocks, Eibach Springs/Sway Bars, TSW 18x8 Rims, Composite Manifold, 3inch Catless
Downpipe w/Cutout, Magnaflow Catback, Quaife LSD

04' GT Manual Purple PT Mileage: 95k (Died Spring 2018)
05' N/A Automatic Red PT Mileage:121k (Died summer 2017)
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  #4 (permalink)  
Old 29 Mar 2018, 06:34 am
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Mar 2018
Location: Italy
Posts: 1
Thumbs up Re: How to add Fog lights to your PT. (Guide)

Quote:
Originally Posted by UnitD77 View Post
This is a guide on how to install Fog lights, on a PT Cruiser. The model used for this guide is an 05' all parts and fitment in the guide are in reference to this. This guide will not work on 06' and later and parts are not guaranteed to interchange, Prior to 05' must use best judgement to ensure proper compatibility.

Background: The PT cruiser from the factory has at least 2 different configurations for wiring harnesses. The engine bay almost always has the electrical connectors for the fog light bulbs clipped to the bumper behind the cover where the fog lights are supposed to be located. The Interior has 2 options for interior wiring harnesses, One that contains the wires and connector sleeves for fog lights, and one that does not. The 05' PT used in this guide, Did not have wiring pre installed and all wiring was inserted by hand.

Parts/tools: To add fog lights you will need:

Multifunction switch w/Fog lights
https://www.amazon.com/CRUISER-MULTI...ion+switch+fog

Two housing with bulbs
https://www.amazon.com/CHRYSLER-CRUI...ser+fog+lights

The wiring diagram and install procedures for the mopar fog light kit (discountinued).
(file is too large for me to attach, but can be found Mopar Accessories 82205451 | Buy Mopar Accessories Fog Lights at JEGS
at the bottom of the page under instructions.)

About 30 ft of wire.

Soldering iron, and solder.

Screw driver, a needle, small ratchet & socket, and possible panel pullers.

The last item you need is very hard to find, but necessary to ensure a factory wiring replication.
You need the metal sleeves out of the connectors for the entire fog light circuit. If your PT is pre-wired for fog lights, you do not need them as they are already installed, but If it is not prewired you need them.
I found mine in a junkyard PT, none of the dealerships had them, and I could not find them online.
Once you understand and trace the wiring circuit you will know what pins need to be pulled from another PT.

Part 1: Tear the dash apart.
First step is going to be getting access to the connectors needed to wire in the fog lights. You need to remove the gauge cluster to access the connector for the dash light, and you have to remove the multifunction switch in the steering column, Removing the wheel wells will allow access to the fog light housing mount points.
To removed the guage cluster you need to first unplug the window motor switches at the top of the radio bezel. This should pop out when the top or bottom is pried from the bezel. Once removed there is a screw that holds down the entire radio bezel. The radio bezel can then be swiftly yanked out, and you may then proceed to pick up all the HVAC knobs off the floor. There is then 2 screws that hold the top deck of the dash. Before removing the top deck of the dash, Pull the two A pillar covers off. Then pull the top deck of the dash towards you and up. This should free the entire top section of the dash.
Then proceed to take apart the steering column, removed the screws on the bottom of the column to remove the shroud around the column. The multifunction switch should come out after removing the two screws that hold it down. Replace it with the new multifunction switch when putting everything back together.
The bottom section of dash under the steering column should swing open with a yank from the top of that section directly under the steering column. The section to the left that contains the fuse access hatch should also be removed after removing the two screws holding it in place along the right edge of the now exposed area.
The bezel around the gauge cluster should now come straight out with a yank. Careful of the trip button and the turn signal wiring.
The guage cluster should be held down by 4 screws located around the cluster. Once those are removed the cluster can be removed by pulling out and tilting up with a yank. Don't tilt too far and dont pull too hard, It is only held in by the force of the pins in the connectors and should slide right out.

At this point the entire dash should be apart.

Following the install kit from the mopar kit should be fairly straight forward, the hardest part is running all the wires and ensuring the factory pin sleeves are installed in the correct location. I pulled the actual wires from another PT so my terminal pins exit to the correct factory color before being soldered to another wire to connect them.

the first wire will connect the Headlight relay to the fuse. There should only be 1 open pin on the headlight relay from the back side of the fuse block under the dash. This will connect to the fuse pin along a 4 inch long wire to the fuse location in slot 10 (might be a different number, check owner manual) under the dash. The other side of the fuse will snake up to the multifunction switch and insert into slot 13 of the 20 pin connector. Slot 14 in the 20 pin connector is the continuation of the circuit witch will have to connect through a splice to the fog lights and the instrument panel indicator light. The instrument panel connector that you plug into is the small 8 pin connector on the left side (looking at the guage cluster head on from the driver seat) simply pop it off the plastic panel it is on and slide the metal sleeve into the connector into cavity 1. From there it will ground out through the common ground to the gauge cluster.

The wire from the gauge cluster to the multifunction switch should have another wire connected to the same wire (you have to solder it this way). That wire will go through the firewall and to the fog lights. Once you snake it through the engine bay in your favorite manner. Simply splice it into the power side of the pre installed fog light connector behind the bumper. If you splice into and leave the rest of the circuit intact, then you will provide power to both bulbs and they will ground through the common ground they share.

At this point plugging in the cluster and the Multifunction switch, and a fuse. You should be able to operate the fog lights. If they do not work, Something has been incorrectly installed. Refer to the wiring diagram at the end of the mopar kit's instructions. Reassemble the dash in reverse order and enjoy the new fog lights.

Further explanation of the circuit.
Power is provided by the headlight relay when the high beams are not on. Power flows through the relay (which is located under the dash) to the fuse (also under the dash). It then travels to the MFS in the steering column. When the headlights or low beams are on, The switch can be pulled out, to allow power to continue flowing through the circuit. This is achieved by a spring tensioned band that bridges two terminals, It is held open when the switch it pushed in, and allowed to drop crossing the terminals when the fog light switch is pulled out. This commonly gets stuck when the pin breaks, and/or the track guiding the band starts to melt and hold the band down. This is a common problem with MFS's as the additional current from the fog light circuit heats up the plastic housing the MFS and starts to melt the case, which in turn leaves the fog lights on, draining the battery. From the MFS the power then splits towards two locations. One flows to the bulbs to light them to be grounded out afterwards. The other flows to the gauge cluster and illuminates the fog light symbol in the dash, it is then grounded along the common ground for the gauge symbols.

I am posting this, because when I went to install fog lights for my own PT I could not find all of this information in one place. Please share with anyone who wants to know how to add fog lights to their car. If you have any questions, you can ask me and I will do my best to answer. You may repost this with proper credit and may even retype and post pictures for this guide.
Thank you!

I kept looking for info and your tutorial is pretty clear ... great!

This afternoon (Italy time) I will finish the front fog installation.

Later, hope to find something similar about cruise control installation (using factory component from an old pt).

Thank you and thanks to the forum,

Antonio
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  #5 (permalink)  
Old 29 Mar 2018, 06:53 am
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Texas
Posts: 15,518
Default Re: How to add Fog lights to your PT. (Guide)

Quote:
Originally Posted by brigantart View Post
Thank you!

I kept looking for info and your tutorial is pretty clear ... great!

This afternoon (Italy time) I will finish the front fog installation.

Later, hope to find something similar about cruise control installation (using factory component from an old pt).

Thank you and thanks to the forum,

Antonio
Welcome to the forum

Please go to Welcome New PT Cruiser Members - PT Cruiser Forum and create an intro thread telling us a little about yourself and your PT. It's always cool to hear about PT's especially in other countries.
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