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multiple electrical component failures

 
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Old 04 Sep 2016, 08:26 pm
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Exclamation multiple electrical component failures

O.K here goes. A couple of weeks ago I needed to get into my silver(bleah)2003 touring edition which I bought a year ago after someone totaled my black 2001 LTD, which I bought used and enjoyed driving a lot, although the mileage sucks and I probably put as many $ into as I paid for it, but I digress. Remote didn't work, so I used the key. Tried starting car; not a light or a peep, so got my jumper cables and used my wife's 2016 Kia Forte to jump mine. Here's where I really screwed up! Connected my cables OK but being unfamiliar with under Kia hood(3 inch thick manual and no good picture of jump points)saw what looked like negative symbol(but wasn't) and when I tried to jump, smoke came from jumper leads. Turned car off, hooked cables to Kia properly and my PT started. Then I noticed fog light indicator on, although knob not pulled out and lights not engaged at all. Drove to my nearby shop just before they closed. They called me Monday and said multifunction switch bad(I know, I know, there is a thread devoted to just that thing, but there is more to this) When I picked it up next day I noticed radio not working but they had no one to check it out that late at night. They said bring it back and they would diagnose no charge. Haven't taken it in yet, but have since noticed several other electrical component issues. Right; radio/cd doesn't work; neither do any interior lights, or the power mirror adjustment, or the power door locks either using remote or manual buttons inside driver's door. Also, just when idling, or ignition switch on but engine not running, the odometer reading flashes off every second, replaced by the words"no fuse" and even though odometer seems to be working properly, every time the engine is turned off the TRIP odometer resets to 0. Help! interior lights meaning dome/reading. others ok

Last edited by Ornald; 04 Sep 2016 at 09:32 pm. Reason: left something out
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Old 04 Sep 2016, 09:50 pm
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Default Re: multiple electrical component failures

I would suggest checking all your fuses.


Part of the diagram is for the radio.
2002 Radio Schematic.jpg
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Last edited by ptcruisersteve; 04 Sep 2016 at 09:56 pm.
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Old 04 Sep 2016, 09:59 pm
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Default Re: multiple electrical component failures

fuse_block 2002 PT Cruiser 1.jpg
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Old 04 Sep 2016, 11:06 pm
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Default Re: multiple electrical component failures

Thanks. I did check ALL fuses behind plastic door inside cabin and saw no breaks. Then I checked fuses in engine compartment fuse block after removing air cleaner top to access fuse block; needed needle nose pliars to pull them out. They looked unbroken as well except I couldn't check big square ones without fear of breaking them. No way to check relays
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Old 05 Sep 2016, 12:41 am
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Default Re: multiple electrical component failures

Check the IOD fuse.

The purpose of the IOD fuse is used during initial transport from the factory to dealers to minimize the drain on the battery by pulling it up.

It effects at least the following systems:

- Interior dome/reading lights (the dash lights, head- and tail-lights still work)
- Power locks (both the door switches and the remote fob capability)
- Radio/CD/Cassette player (though the unit will still show trim lighting)
- The trip odometer memory (which would reset each time the car was shut down)

The yellow 20-amp IOD fuse is in the fuse box (power distribution center) under the hood and just behind the air filter housing. It stands out because it is encased in a protective clip that allows you to pull it up to break the circuit, but leave it in place for transport and not get lost.

You'll see a small rectangle opening in the top where you'll be able to read the "20" on the fuse. Take the tip of your screwdriver and insert it in the opening, with the pressure up under the left side of the opening (the top is actually hinged, with the left side being where it clips down in place and the plastic hinges on the right). It takes a little effort, and use your left hand to try and help un clip the left side of the clip while you applied the out/lifting pressure with the screwdriver. The top should opened up to allow access to the fuse.

Take out the fuse and check it. Chances are it's bad.
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Old 05 Sep 2016, 07:01 pm
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Default Re: multiple electrical component failures

I just wrote a longwinded reply and by the time I was done the site had logged me off and I couldn't get it back! Short version: you were right. IOD fuse bad. Thanks for telling me all that it affected and how to get it out! Soon as new fuse went in all the little lights and gizmos started working again. Like magic! Many thanks for your help! Now to figure out why engine still lurches when stopped and idling. Took forum advise and changed PCV, then wires(Bosch) and plugs(champion)gapped to .050. still lurches, but now only if a/c is on. Anyway thanks again! Live long and prosper
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Old 05 Sep 2016, 07:42 pm
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Default Re: multiple electrical component failures

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ornald View Post
I just wrote a longwinded reply and by the time I was done the site had logged me off and I couldn't get it back! Short version: you were right. IOD fuse bad. Thanks for telling me all that it affected and how to get it out! Soon as new fuse went in all the little lights and gizmos started working again. Like magic! Many thanks for your help! Now to figure out why engine still lurches when stopped and idling. Took forum advise and changed PCV, then wires(Bosch) and plugs(champion)gapped to .050. still lurches, but now only if a/c is on. Anyway thanks again! Live long and prosper
I think you're very lucky the IOD fuse did its job and protected all those systems, when the battery cables were crossed when jump starting. As far as the lurching with the a/c on, you might want to check that both speeds of the cooling fan are operating correctly. But glad to hear that you got it back running to this point.
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Old 05 Sep 2016, 07:43 pm
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Default Re: multiple electrical component failures

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ornald View Post
I just wrote a longwinded reply and by the time I was done the site had logged me off and I couldn't get it back! Short version: you were right. IOD fuse bad. Thanks for telling me all that it affected and how to get it out! Soon as new fuse went in all the little lights and gizmos started working again. Like magic! Many thanks for your help! Now to figure out why engine still lurches when stopped and idling. Took forum advise and changed PCV, then wires(Bosch) and plugs(champion)gapped to .050. still lurches, but now only if a/c is on. Anyway thanks again! Live long and prosper

Gap was changed in TSB to .40, but some users say .42 is best.

Your idel problem could be your IAC (Idle Air Control Valve).
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Old 05 Sep 2016, 08:26 pm
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Default Re: multiple electrical component failures

Thanks, rckstein. Yeeaah, I thought I'd fried every one of those systems when I cross clamped the terminals! Imagine my relief. My shop said fan wasn't working ; was hoping it would work after replacing IOD but not sure. Could I have screwed up the low/hi fan speed relays?

to Lion PT: OK; screwed up the gap; maybe was reading about turbos?? Had my shop do plugs and told them .050. Last two times I did plugs myself was a royal pain. Always had trouble with larger of two bolts reattaching some pipe w/flange in back of engine, not to mention being afraid of screwing up all of those things you're supposed to disconnect in order to acces plugs. Will have to live with wrong gap for the present. Will try to check out IAC valve? Thanks
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Old 05 Sep 2016, 08:36 pm
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Default Re: multiple electrical component failures

Quote:
Originally Posted by ptcruisersteve View Post
Check the IOD fuse.

The purpose of the IOD fuse is used during initial transport from the factory to dealers to minimize the drain on the battery by pulling it up.

It effects at least the following systems:

- Interior dome/reading lights (the dash lights, head- and tail-lights still work)
- Power locks (both the door switches and the remote fob capability)
- Radio/CD/Cassette player (though the unit will still show trim lighting)
- The trip odometer memory (which would reset each time the car was shut down)

The yellow 20-amp IOD fuse is in the fuse box (power distribution center) under the hood and just behind the air filter housing. It stands out because it is encased in a protective clip that allows you to pull it up to break the circuit, but leave it in place for transport and not get lost.

You'll see a small rectangle opening in the top where you'll be able to read the "20" on the fuse. Take the tip of your screwdriver and insert it in the opening, with the pressure up under the left side of the opening (the top is actually hinged, with the left side being where it clips down in place and the plastic hinges on the right). It takes a little effort, and use your left hand to try and help un clip the left side of the clip while you applied the out/lifting pressure with the screwdriver. The top should opened up to allow access to the fuse.

Take out the fuse and check it. Chances are it's bad.
ptcruisersteve, looks like you get the prize on this one

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