PT Cruiser Forum  
Advertisements
       

Go Back   PT Cruiser Forum > General Forums > General PT Cruiser Discussions

PT Cruiser Forum

Advertisements
Alternator / Electrical problems

 
Like Tree2Likes

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 29 Nov 2016, 06:25 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
Default Alternator / Electrical problems

Hi, bought my 1st PT , 05 , non-turbo . 195000 k. pretty good shape. 3rd owner. Was running pretty well for 3 weeks , battery light came on a few miles from home, figured it was alternator gone bad. When I went to disconnect Batt. it looked in bad shape so I replaced with new one I had on hand, started car but batt. lite still on. Checked voltage at batt. first, 11.46 V. ,checked volts at Alternator , 11.46 , same as batt. so figured alternator was toast like I first thought. Replaced alternator with reman, when started, alternator was still showing 11.46 volts. Figured it was a bad reman . Put in 2nd Alt. , batt. lite doesn't come on at 1st but turn on heater or lite or rev up it comes on. Still 11.46 V. at Alternator , don't think the 2nd one would be bad as well. I know PT's have the external regulator in the computer but don't know if it would affect the voltage coming out of the Alternator. Codes that come up are - P0032 & P0038 . Would any long time PT owners have any ideas on this issue ? I'm a Lada Niva owner and normally fix that thing with a hammer and cursing in Russian but don't figure this will work on a PT. Any ideas at all would be helpful. Thanks.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 29 Nov 2016, 06:38 pm
NitroPT's Avatar
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: USA kalyfornia
Posts: 15,969
Default Re: Alternator / Electrical problems

Welcome to the forum
__________________
To view larger pictures simply "click " on the picture!

Dalai Lama
"Share you knowledge. It's the best way to achieve immortality."
ASE MASTER TECHNICIAN
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 29 Nov 2016, 07:03 pm
rob302's Avatar
Veteran Cruiser
 
Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Darien, IL | Forest Park, IL
Posts: 3,557
Default Re: Alternator / Electrical problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by CANNON59 View Post
.......normally fix that thing with a hammer and cursing in Russian but don't figure this will work on a PT....
i would say you are correct, but it may make you feel better anyhow.

check this thread:
2001 PT - o2 sensor code but looks like it's the PCM
it contains a post about getting the o2's to show activity by pressing HARD on a PCM connector(kinda fits your hammer motto) ..which may lead you to start swearing in Russian. it also contains a page to PCM repair that i believe to be in Russian

Last edited by rob302; 29 Nov 2016 at 07:05 pm.
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 29 Nov 2016, 08:27 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
Default Re: Alternator / Electrical problems

I pulled the 3 connecter plugs to the PCM to check for anything out of the ordinary but found nothing, plug them back in and started car but with same results. Something happened when I moved the wiring about 5 inches down on the center plug , engine sputtered and almost died. Did this a few more times till engine did stall. Started back up again no problem but still showing no charge from alternator. Just can't figure out why I can't get any more then 11.46 volt out of a supposedly good alternator. If the external regulator was bad you'd think i'd still get around 13. 5 or 14 from the alternator hot terminal but only 12 or less from the battery . Going to pull the new Alt. and bench test it for voltage tomorrow I guess.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 29 Nov 2016, 09:44 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 7,471
Default Re: Alternator / Electrical problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by CANNON59 View Post
Hi, bought my 1st PT , 05 , non-turbo . 195000 k. pretty good shape. 3rd owner. Was running pretty well for 3 weeks , battery light came on a few miles from home, figured it was alternator gone bad. When I went to disconnect Batt. it looked in bad shape so I replaced with new one I had on hand, started car but batt. lite still on. Checked voltage at batt. first, 11.46 V. ,checked volts at Alternator , 11.46 , same as batt. so figured alternator was toast like I first thought. Replaced alternator with reman, when started, alternator was still showing 11.46 volts. Figured it was a bad reman . Put in 2nd Alt. , batt. lite doesn't come on at 1st but turn on heater or lite or rev up it comes on. Still 11.46 V. at Alternator , don't think the 2nd one would be bad as well. I know PT's have the external regulator in the computer but don't know if it would affect the voltage coming out of the Alternator. Codes that come up are - P0032 & P0038 . Would any long time PT owners have any ideas on this issue ? I'm a Lada Niva owner and normally fix that thing with a hammer and cursing in Russian but don't figure this will work on a PT. Any ideas at all would be helpful. Thanks.
I would suggest you have a battery load test done on both batteries. Until this is done we are guessing on what might be the problem. Battery fully charged should have at least 12.25 volts.
NitroPT likes this.
__________________
If at First You Don't Succeed - Try, Try Again
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 29 Nov 2016, 10:01 pm
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
Default Re: Alternator / Electrical problems

1st batt. was charged and load tested OK but POS. post is wobbly . New batt. was installed with full charge but is getting low to about a doz. starts and about 15 minutes running time with no charging from alt. , haven't had a chance to load test it yet. I come across a few sites on the net that describe a similar problem with PT's. Apparently the dark green field coil wire from the alt. (from one of the 2 pin connections) runs near the CV Boot and under the exhaust manifold, this set of wires are prone to rubbing on the CV Boot or the manifold and burn thru. If the green wire to the PCM fails it will shut down the charge from the alternator they claim. Something I haven't checked yet but the weather is supposed to turn nasty here tomorrow so I imagine a day of two of laying in the freezing cold wet snow is in order. Hopefully it as simple as a burnt wire.
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 29 Nov 2016, 10:21 pm
Obsessed Cruiser
 
Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: Thousand Oaks, CA
Posts: 7,471
Default Re: Alternator / Electrical problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by CANNON59 View Post
1st batt. was charged and load tested OK but POS. post is wobbly . New batt. was installed with full charge but is getting low to about a doz. starts and about 15 minutes running time with no charging from alt. , haven't had a chance to load test it yet. I come across a few sites on the net that describe a similar problem with PT's. Apparently the dark green field coil wire from the alt. (from one of the 2 pin connections) runs near the CV Boot and under the exhaust manifold, this set of wires are prone to rubbing on the CV Boot or the manifold and burn thru. If the green wire to the PCM fails it will shut down the charge from the alternator they claim. Something I haven't checked yet but the weather is supposed to turn nasty here tomorrow so I imagine a day of two of laying in the freezing cold wet snow is in order. Hopefully it as simple as a burnt wire.
This usually only happens with the 2001 & 2002 PT Cruisers.
__________________
If at First You Don't Succeed - Try, Try Again
Reply With Quote
  #8 (permalink)  
Old 30 Nov 2016, 01:13 am
_PTGT03's Avatar
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia.
Posts: 768
Default Re: Alternator / Electrical problems

replace your PCM. the most likely problem is your voltage regulator, which is built into the PCM, has completely failed. your cel codes are related to an O2 sensor and are not related to the problem.
your alternator is not the problem.
the voltage regulator sends a pulse width modulation signal to the alternator field windings which determines the level of charge to produce. if you had a scope meter you could determine the frequency and if was out of range you can confirm a failed PCM.

if a sensor where to fail which would determine the battery charging voltage, the voltage regulator would go to a failsafe mode at 13.5 volts. since that is not hapenning and there is no engine codes indicating a bad sensor, replace the pcm.
__________________
2003 GT M/T in Onyx Green Pearl on Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 Plus Tires 205/50ZR17. Dark Slate Gray Interior. OEM cargo net, parcel shelf, slush mats and trunk protector, mud flaps, mopar subwoofer. Platinum edition pedals, Neon SX 2.0 steering wheel with black+grey wrapped leather cover. Generic lowering springs, KYB gas shocks, Valeo solid flywheel conversion and clutch kit. Urethane insert engine mounts. Energy suspension full body urethane bushing kit. Chrysler premium front speakers, Jenson 6x9 rears. Boston Audio 4x55W amp. Panasonic head unit with xtenzi bluetooth. 300W AC power inverter. Escort 360max and Escort Shifter ZR4, dual front+rear dash camera. stage 1 blow off valve and syked tune computer . Boost and oil pressure gauges with Turbo-Timer. Needswings 3" exhaust elbow, Electric valve actuated Y-pipe with catalytic converter. To do: coilovers, 2step controller, quaife diff, Air-Fuel Meter
Reply With Quote
  #9 (permalink)  
Old 30 Nov 2016, 02:44 am
Fresh Cruiser
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 8
Default Re: Alternator / Electrical problems

Really hoping it's not the PCM, in this area a used one is near impossible to find, a reman is almost half of what I paid for the vehicle and the Local Stealership want an arm , leg , 1 kidney and your 1st born to flash the unit you switch in. Just looking to save a few bucks due to the fact i'm hardly living on a small shitty pension.
Reply With Quote
  #10 (permalink)  
Old 30 Nov 2016, 12:09 pm
_PTGT03's Avatar
Fanatic Cruiser
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia.
Posts: 768
Default Re: Alternator / Electrical problems

Quote:
Originally Posted by CANNON59 View Post
Really hoping it's not the PCM, in this area a used one is near impossible to find, a reman is almost half of what I paid for the vehicle and the Local Stealership want an arm , leg , 1 kidney and your 1st born to flash the unit you switch in. Just looking to save a few bucks due to the fact i'm hardly living on a small shitty pension.
almost impossible to find is actually a bit of a laugh, come on, let's be serious here. there where 1.3 million of these cars produced so parts are plenty and cheap.
there are actually online suppliers that can offer a reman unit programmed to your vin number at a reasonable price and you can find some by doing a little looking around the forum and google.

the last thing you should do is test the current path from the computer charge signal to the alternator harness switch and it should be less than 5 ohms for resistance.
there are two wires going to the generator switch. one is ground (pin 1). the other is gen field control. (pin 2)
if you open the connector probe pin 1 to the battery gnd post with engine off and you should get <5 ohms.
probe from pin 2 of generator harness pin to Connector 2 (second from left when looking director at the face of the computer), Pin 19 of PCM connector 2. The wire colour is DG or dark green. you should get less than 5 ohms for this measurement.

once you eliminate the wiring to the generator as a problem, the last remaining is the PCM to replace.
__________________
2003 GT M/T in Onyx Green Pearl on Michelin Pilot Sport AS 3 Plus Tires 205/50ZR17. Dark Slate Gray Interior. OEM cargo net, parcel shelf, slush mats and trunk protector, mud flaps, mopar subwoofer. Platinum edition pedals, Neon SX 2.0 steering wheel with black+grey wrapped leather cover. Generic lowering springs, KYB gas shocks, Valeo solid flywheel conversion and clutch kit. Urethane insert engine mounts. Energy suspension full body urethane bushing kit. Chrysler premium front speakers, Jenson 6x9 rears. Boston Audio 4x55W amp. Panasonic head unit with xtenzi bluetooth. 300W AC power inverter. Escort 360max and Escort Shifter ZR4, dual front+rear dash camera. stage 1 blow off valve and syked tune computer . Boost and oil pressure gauges with Turbo-Timer. Needswings 3" exhaust elbow, Electric valve actuated Y-pipe with catalytic converter. To do: coilovers, 2step controller, quaife diff, Air-Fuel Meter
Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Electrical Problems flexitrux Tech & Performance Forum 6 21 Sep 2015 03:26 pm
Alternator/Starter Problems joancall1 Tech & Performance Forum 6 03 Mar 2015 01:20 am
alternator problems bnpt01 Tech & Performance Forum 2 13 Sep 2014 10:45 am
PT Electrical Problems DDPTman Tech & Performance Forum 1 17 Feb 2009 03:34 pm
Electrical Problems sdalley Tech & Performance Forum 3 08 Nov 2008 06:20 pm


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:12 pm.




Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.2
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
LinkBacks Enabled by vBSEO 3.6.0 PL2 © 2011, Crawlability, Inc.
vB.Sponsors