2002 PT Leak detection pump leaking?

[Only1Balto]

2002 PT N/A @ 110000


I've done some reading up on the forums and have decided that I have a faulty LDP in my 2002 PT. I have both the major leak code and the minor leak one. Besides the having the codes, the tank does NOT vent when I crack open the tank to refuel. This tells me that I actually do have a leak somewhere. I've dropped the tank and took a quick look over the lines and have not noticed anything damaged or out of place. I'm waiting a new LDP as we speak as I'd ordered the 2003+ version prior.

Is it at all possible that the leak is coming from the pump itself?
Where else can I check for leaks to make sure before I button her back up?
Are the Dorman replacements sufficient?

Thank you ask in advance for your help.

[JoeX]

I believe the pump activates for a vacuum test and it only take several seconds. It's not a constant pumping action.

I've had several PT Cruisers of both generations and I've never witnessed the tank venting.
Sometimes its the gas cap. Some older cars may find rust pin holes on the filler tube.
There is one part down by the steering column and the other is on the tank.

[Only1Balto]

Originally Posted by JoeX

I believe the pump activates for a vacuum test and it only take several seconds. It's not a constant pumping action.

I've had several PT Cruisers of both generations and I've never witnessed the tank venting.
Sometimes its the gas cap. Some older cars may find rust pin holes on the filler tube.

Thank you Joe. The car is a California car so there's no rust or major damages to any of the lines or hoses.

I just had the Evap system of my 92 Olds Custom Cruiser repaired- and when I crack the tank open I hear a loud hiss for almost 5 whole seconds. I guess I was expecting something like that from the PT although I don't ever recall hearing it vent like that either. I'll replace the gas cap (although I vaguely recall doing that 2 years ago when smoging) and hopefully a new pump will stop the lights from coming on. I'll also zip tie the ends of the evap lines around the tank just to make certain.

[ptcruisersteve]

I would suggest checking the filler tube if the leak detection pump is working properly. The Filler tube is made of 2 pieces the metal tube and a plastic insert that the cap screws into and sometimes there is a leak between the 2 pieces.

[Only1Balto]

Originally Posted by ptcruisersteve

I would suggest checking the filler tube if the leak detection pump is working properly. The Filler tube is made of 2 pieces the metal tube and a plastic insert that the cap screws into and sometimes there is a leak between the 2 pieces.

Thanks Steve. I wasn't able to drop the filler neck down all the way- I tried twisting and turning it but it wouldn't drop down. Do I need to remove the plastic wheel well in order to get to it?

[ptcruisersteve]

Originally Posted by Only1Balto

Thanks Steve. I wasn't able to drop the filler neck down all the way- I tried twisting and turning it but it wouldn't drop down. Do I need to remove the plastic wheel well in order to get to it?

You will need to remove the rear half of the inner splash shield. You will need to drain the fuel if the gas tank is more than half full.

[Only1Balto]

Originally Posted by ptcruisersteve

You will need to remove the rear half of the inner splash shield. You will need to drain the fuel if the gas tank is more than half full.

Gotcha thanks. I'll keep the post updated.

[Only1Balto]

Update:

I got everything put back together today. When I dropped the filler neck, there was this clear plastic tape wrapped around where the metal and composite met- and in the center of the tape was a 1" wide black rubber adhesive that went all the way around the neck. I removed the plastic, left the soft rubber tape there and used electrical tape to tightly wind around the neck (3-4" wide) about 20 times. I didn't see any holes or any evidence of a leak. The black rubber looked clean.

I installed the LDP without issue. I zip tied all the rubber evap hoses around the tank. Pluged up the two connectors and reinstalled the tank. It went a lot easier than I thought it would. Using a jack is key.

I had also bought a stant gas cap to replace the soft plastic one that they sell at autozone. The Stant seems to be a lot thicker in plastic material as well as the gasket they use. Hopefully I won't have any issues and I'll be able to smog.

There's just a few monitors left to clear- but no codes thus far.

As far as dropping the tank, I was able to do it by removing the back end of the stock exhaust (muffler) and unhinging the rest of the exhaust from its hangers. This left the exhaust hanging down from the flex pipe near the cat. Using a jack to support the tank (probably want to have something flat to increase the width of support), I removed the filler neck hose and zip tied a thick plastic bag over the opening of the tank to prevent fuel from coming out. I removed the two 15mm tank strap bolts and slowly lowered the tank about 1/4 way. Once there I disconnected the two electrical connectors near the front right of the tank, as well as the vent line that connects to the top of the LDP. I continued to lower the tank, and once the tank was low enough I had to tip the tank back (rearward) and to the left to get it to pass under the exhaust pipe and finally lay flat on the ground.

Install was the reverse.