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Installed a WiFi obd2 reader. connected and read the coolant temps.
mine range from 195 then at 206 the fan comes on (the first time after startup the temps go to 215 but never after the first cycle) This seems too hot to me? if so i would think thermostat? |
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I've tested this before with my UltraGauge, fan comes on at 208* for me. Once you start driving fan will cut off. ![]()
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![]() 2006 Touring Edition in Cool Vanilla...aka/Ghost |
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The dongle I have and the app I connect to it shows real-time data while driving, so i put a guage that shows the temps and I can tell when it comes on. But based on your image, it's working perfectly. Quote:
![]() As for the search, you're right. i searched google and didn't get the results I was hoping for. I guess it didn't dawn on me to search again using the forum search. the bad part is I'm a developer. i'm usually the one bitching about people not using the search ![]() Last edited by story97; 01 Mar 2017 at 12:11 pm. |
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For all.
Whenever you use the diagnostic connector for scan tools or DATA viewing devices like my recommended ULTRA GAUGE they are using the on board sensors for their input information. The assumption is that those sensors are in working order and sending correct information. In the case of operating temperatures a follow up should be a hand held temperature gun. ![]() Had you used the SEARCH FEATURE of this forum you may have found this thread having to do with PT Cruiser temperature concerns? Honestly I hate the search feature most of the time but at least it gets a start for finding information? Here is one of many threads having to do with temperature concerns. WHACKY Temp Gauge Readings – HELP PLEASE!! :)
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To view larger pictures simply "click " on the picture! Dalai Lama "Share you knowledge. It's the best way to achieve immortality." ASE MASTER TECHNICIAN ![]() ![]() Last edited by NitroPT; 01 Mar 2017 at 12:49 pm. |
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I have a couple questions. i have an IR temp gun similar to that (everyone should have one. they're dirt cheap and wonderful for finding where you're losing heat/cold in a house. Even good ones are less than $80. Mine is a Fluke 62 MAX IR and I think it was $80?). Where are you pointing that to verify the ECT result? I honestly don't even know where the ECT is getting the info. are they screwed into the block? Second, if i'm testing this driving down the road, i can't use that tool. are you referring to testing in the driveway? because it varies quite a bit from sitting idling and driving. I don't know where i'd point the gun? the outside of the radiator? does that give effective readings? i assume the dissipation of the heat would change that. is it that it doesn't change it enough to matter? Honestly never thought of trying that Last edited by story97; 01 Mar 2017 at 01:04 pm. |
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I would suggest look at the pictures posted on the provided thread in my previous response? *The coolant temperature sensor is located in the thermostat housing
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To view larger pictures simply "click " on the picture! Dalai Lama "Share you knowledge. It's the best way to achieve immortality." ASE MASTER TECHNICIAN ![]() ![]() Last edited by NitroPT; 01 Mar 2017 at 01:14 pm. |
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Since you are reading the temperature using the temperature sensor, the ideal spot to check is at the temperature sensor location:
Coolant Temp Sensor Location Now sometimes those IR meters don't like the surface it's looking at such as shiny surfaces (like the top of a pool of molten lead), but around the neck of the coolant filter is a fairly good location. I did a bunch of obsessive temperature monitoring with my PT when replacing the fan, changing the fluid and later sealing a heater core leak. My experience has been that after filling the coolant and bleeding the air out, the temperature cycles up and down as little air pockets work their way out of the cooling system. After a couple of days of driving, the temperature should be rock solid while driving at a constant speed down the highway. If it fluctuates wildly, something is wrong. Also, at the beginning of the day after the car has been sitting overnight, you should be able to open the coolant cap ("radiator" cap) and the fluid should be right at the level of the cap. That means all the air has bled out and as the engine cooled down, enough coolant was sucked out of the reservoir to fill the entire volume of the engine and radiator. |
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