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Hi, I have a 2006 PT Cruiser (2.4 L NA DOHC).
It has overheating issues. It was my daughter's car while she was in college. A month ago, I decided to drive it back home so I can tear into it finally. The drive was about 450 miles. During the entire trip, I was monitoring the coolant temperature using the OBD read-outs (through WIFI and phone). With the outside temperatures about 60 deg F, the coolant temp averaged 190 deg F for at least 300 miles... keep in mind that I kept the rpms at around 2500 (definitely under 3K). However, I had to overtake a car and stomped on the throttle a bit to the point that it downshifted and probably shot past 4000 rpms. That's when I noticed that the coolant temp creep up fairly rapidly. I pulled over before it reached 240 deg F... it was boiling over at that point. After it cooled, I filled it back up with water and drove the remaining 200 miles uneventfully (again, under 3K rpm and coolant temps registering in the 190 deg F range). When I got home, very little water was lost. I have a very strong suspicion that it's my cylinder head (or gasket). I'm actually in the process of removing it now (have not removed the timing belt yet). Am I right in my hunch? I also want to know if I can do the cylinder head removal WITHOUT removing the AC line. Can anyone answer this question? Thanks. |
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Thanks, Handy Cruiser! I failed to mention that the following things have been replaced: Radiator, thermostat, cooling fan, radiator cap. My wonderful daughter did manage to overheat it to the point of engine shutdown at least once prior to my 450 mile drive. The lost coolant spews out from the overflow reservoir.
Since I am replacing the timing belt, along with the fact that the car overheats and PT Cruisers are notorious for cylinder head/gasket issues compels me to pull out the head. Do you know if I need to remove the AC lines for this endeavor? |
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A compression test may or may not tell the story. On some really small head gasket leaks, I've had several cases where neither a compression test nor a cooling system pressure test showed anything. But if you have a compression tester, it might be worth it. If not, I'd do a chemical test since it will be the most definitive. Either way, as mentioned, I'd try to confirm the head gasket failure before I start pulling the head. And doing the compression test can give you an idea of the condition of the head itself. For me, I always have the head rebuilt when doing a head gasket job. It's money well spent. And yes, you can remove the head without discharging the AC system. The hoses are not really in the way. I figure the service manual says to do this because it's a little safer for both the technician and the environment since it eliminates the chance of the rupture and release to the environment. But after pulling the timing belt and camshafts a couple of times on my GT, I believe the risk is pretty low.
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the ac lines don't need to be removed and are fairly durable as I had to "persuade" then a few times changing out the head in my 2.4 turbo .... to my amazement the a/c still works in my car
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My roommates and I did a water pump and timing belt replacement without removing the cooling lines. Just be mindful of what you're doing when working around them and take time to see how any parts that need to be navigated around them need to be turned and twisted to get around them.
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2018 Jeep Compass Trailhawk 2015 Chevy Colorado Z71 Trail Boss (22k) 2004 Saturn ION Redline (9k) |
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Thank you for the feedback, guys! I've actually partially disassembled the top end (meaning everything up to and including the valve cover has been removed). Your confirmation that the AC line does not need to be disconnected helps a lot.
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Mykee can you please provide?post this member with the info of the library to obtain a FSM.
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