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We have an '05 PT Cruiser 2.4 turbo Limited Edition, owned from new. Most recently developed electrical problems. Started with PCM needing replacement. It was corroded and half burned out. A local mechanic did the job. While doing the job, he noticed a glitch in the key actuator. He replaced the broken 'toothpick' in the actuator and then the other small pieces when the 'toothpick' didn't solve the glitch. Ran fine for a month and then the no crank scenario started. New battery, alternator is good, starter and solonoid both check good. Voltage at starter 12.8+ volts, just like battery. Running voltage reads around 13.5 Volts. No crank at start position, however at times, a slight turn of the steering wheel will allow engine to crank and start. Also, attaching my booster in engine start mode will override the fault and start the engine. I replaced the electric side of the ignition switch to no avail. I have not replaced the actual key actuator. Could this be the problem? Does it require reprogramming if I do?
It sounds like a short in the steering column but where? Any ideas? Thanks for any help. Last edited by bgkidz; 23 Apr 2017 at 10:25 am. |
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Welcome to the forum.
I am suggesting this might be an electrical problem. First thing I would suggest is to check the ignition switch assembly. Check the voltage going to the starter from the ignition switch. If no voltage check to make sure you have voltage going to the ignition switch. Some members have had the wiring go bad from the ignition switch to the starter and bypassed the original wire with a new wire.
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Thanks Steve. I am not an electrical wizard or a wizard of any sort for that matter. How do I check these voltages? Do I check these at the PCM? Another mechanic friend checked the computer and no codes appeared. He then went into the PCM and bypassed the auto shut down relay with a jump wire and the starter cranked. Thanks.
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Welcome to the forum. I used to live in Nashville and ran a delivery route through Lebanon. Years ago! Anyway, since the problem seems to have reappeared since the "mechanic" fooled with the ignition switch, I'd do what Steve suggested first and then, most likely, get a new ignition switch and replace the old one.
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Thanks Chuzz, The only componant not new in the ign switch is the key actuator. I'll try that next.
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