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I have a 2005 pt cuirser I just bout 94 thousand miles and iit has p0344 could for cam shaft sensor as well and a miss fire in cylinder 4 and 1 change the censor code came back up manual transmission and when I get about 3000 rpms the engine looses power and starts to jerk please help
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![]() ![]() It sounds like you may have an ignition related problem. The rough running can often trigger other codes that aren't necessarily defects, as you found with the sensor you replaced, but the code came back. Have the plugs and wires been changed? Usually when you have original wires after this long and so many miles, they are not working well anymore. You will probably notice a big change with replacement wires if they haven't been changed already. Often when the ignition coil fails, it doesn't actually trigger a code. These cars tend to be a bit fussy with replacement coils. Do you live near a serve yourself junkyard? If you have a pick a part or whatever name those yards go by in your area, you can often find relatively new wires and coil on any Pt Cruiser or Dodge Neon. That's what I did. I got a nice set of newer NGK blue wires and a coil for next to nothing from a Neon. Last edited by myckee; 25 Apr 2017 at 08:05 am. |
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I think it depends which code came back. If it was the misfire, then the ignition would be my first suspect. If the 344 came back after changing the sensor, my first choice is the wiring to the cam sensor. Check the connector and then follow it back.
The 3000 rpm jerk and miss sounds like cam sensor to me. They are like an on/off switch when you hit that rpm. I think it is a failsafe. If the new sensor didn't fix it, my next steps would be the wiring and checking if the magnet cracked. I think some hamfisted mechanics <cough, cough> over torque the sensor which can crack the magnet. I've never seen it in practice, but I've read it here a few times. Good luck
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2003 GT 5 speed 162,000 miles |
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P0344 - Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent Conditions
Possible Causes: 1. Wiring harness fault 5 volt supply circuit open or shorted to ground 2. Tone wheel/pulse ring is damaged or corroded 3. Camshaft Sensor has failed 4. Camshaft Sensor signal circuit is open, shorted to ground or battery voltage or 5 volt supply 5. Camshaft Sensor ground circuit is open 6. PCM has failed Was the target magnet removed lately? The target magnet is very easy to crack and there has been warnings about over tightening it.
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Just a quick FYI. I replaced my cam sensor at around 100k miles. The first one I bought was an aftermarket. It did NOT work. I bought an OEM sensor and it DID work. I just replaced the cam sensor again at 172k and I decided to give the aftermarket one another try. So far, it is working fine. So, I'm guessing if you bought an aftermarket sensor, you may have gotten a bad one.
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