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Front sway bar cluster ****

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 07 Jun 2017, 10:12 am
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Default Front sway bar cluster ****

Has anyone driven a PT WITHOUT the front sway bar installed I just had a goddamn thread tap snap off in the hole I was trying to fix that had a bolt snap inside of it. I drilled out the bolt hole and was tapping new threads when my piece of chinese shit tap snapped of inside. I'm ready to go apeshit on this car.
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Old 07 Jun 2017, 10:21 am
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Default Re: Front sway bar cluster ****

Ya, drove mine with it just hanging there for awhile. Take corners slower than normal and you'll be ok.
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Old 07 Jun 2017, 10:26 am
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Default Re: Front sway bar cluster ****

You'll be OK. More roll in the corners.

A little extra sway to go with the cool tunes you're groovin' to!
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Old 07 Jun 2017, 10:39 am
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Default Re: Front sway bar cluster ****

90% of drivers don't push their cars hard enough to even notice the difference the swaybar makes. i removed both on my mustang, the front because it allows for more front end rise, the rear because the arms i bought said i should ditch it. i cant tell a difference at all in the handling and now my car weighs less.
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Old 07 Jun 2017, 11:06 am
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Default Re: Front sway bar cluster ****

I have driven cars with out front sway bar and you don't want to drive curvy roads. You will notice on this too heavy cruiser a lot of roll. When you are tapping a hole with cheaper brittle taps. It very important to drill the correct size hole that is recommended for that size tap. Use oil to lub. Use a lite hand turning it. When it gets harder to turn. Back it out a few turns then go again. Do this until you complete the tap. This will prevent braking the tap off.
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Old 07 Jun 2017, 11:47 am
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Default Re: Front sway bar cluster ****

Quote:
Originally Posted by rob302 View Post
90% of drivers don't push their cars hard enough to even notice the difference the swaybar makes. i removed both on my mustang, the front because it allows for more front end rise, the rear because the arms i bought said i should ditch it. i cant tell a difference at all in the handling and now my car weighs less.
Clutch out, nose up!
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Old 07 Jun 2017, 11:59 am
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Default Re: Front sway bar cluster ****

There is at least 2 of us on this forum that have either removed or unbolted the end links to DRAG Race ONLY. I do not recommend driving with the sway bar only disconnected, better to remove it completely if you can not service it properly.
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Old 07 Jun 2017, 02:32 pm
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Default Re: Front sway bar cluster ****

Being from Arkansas, I've had the privilege of driving many vehicles with the front sway bar links broken. As already said, it just puts more sway in your day. But it can also cause the front wheels to bottom out and hit the inner fenders on some cars. So you want to take it easy until properly fixed. And yeah, total removal of the bar is going to be better than just driving with no links. On some cars, the lower control arm will hit the loose sway bar and give you a loud pop when going over bumps.
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Old 07 Jun 2017, 05:05 pm
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Default Re: Front sway bar cluster ****

Right now the sway bar IS completely removed. The bolt that snapped is one that holds the bracket in place around the bushing on the front drivers side.

I have tapped many a redrilled bolt hole. I used oil, and was employing the correct technique. This was a shitty tool failure, and nothing more. Still, now I have a hardened steel thing now buried and lodged deep enough inside the hole that I am not sure how I'm going to go about getting it out. My roommate wants to drop the entire sub frame to get at it. All this mess over rotten rubber making the car clunk and bang over every bump.
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Old 07 Jun 2017, 11:56 pm
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Default Re: Front sway bar cluster ****

Greetings from the Philippines. �� I have some downtime so I am able to browse the forum briefly.

Anyway I had a very similar thing happen except instead of a cheap tap breaking, it was a cheap hardened drill bit. Since all 4 bolts broke off, I had to drill and tap all 4. Of course it was on the last one that the drill bit broke off about 1/3 of the way that it needed to go. I ended up by heating it up red and then using a punch to punch the whole nut and all into the frame. Then I used a tapered reamer to open up the hole just big enough to clear the hex of a shouldered nut. The shoulder or lock washer incorporated part of the nut prevents the nut from dropping into the frame. Then I welded the nut in place.

Anyway that's what I did and I am satisfied with the result.

Last edited by myckee; 08 Jun 2017 at 12:01 am.
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