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Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

 
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 28 Sep 2017, 07:56 pm
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Default Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

So after lots of looking and probing I can't seem to find where the parasitic drain on my battery is coming from (2006 PT non-turbo).
As I mentioned in my other posts about this problem, it is only noticeable in cold weather and the cold weather is coming.

So I though I would solve the problem by installing a kill switch in the negative line between the negative wire and the negative battery post.
Only thing is, my daughter occasionally drives the PT in winter so I need to mount the actual switch inside the car.

Anyone have any experience with this?
It is about 4 feet from the battery to the dash so what gauge wire should I use?
How many volts/amps should the actual switch be rated for?
Is there a simpler way to isolate/cut off the battery?
Any opinions, ideas or info is greatly appreciated.
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Old 28 Sep 2017, 08:51 pm
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Default Re: Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

Every time you use a battery disconnect switch will put the car into a learning mode and mileage may suffer, radio buttons will be erased.
You would need a wire at least a big as the ground wire going to the engine block and there is another going to the the left fender for PCM, and sensor grounds.
PCM might not like getting spiked with power ever time you use the disconnect.

Just my thoughts.
Have you pulled the fuses one at a time to see what is causing the voltage drain.
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Old 28 Sep 2017, 09:07 pm
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Default Re: Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JoeX View Post
Every time you use a battery disconnect switch will put the car into a learning mode and mileage may suffer, radio buttons will be erased.
You would need a wire at least a big as the ground wire going to the engine block and there is another going to the the left fender for PCM, and sensor grounds.
PCM might not like getting spiked with power ever time you use the disconnect.

Just my thoughts.
Have you pulled the fuses one at a time to see what is causing the voltage drain.
Thanks for your thoughts, they are much appreciated.

I have tried pulling the fuses one by one, but came up with nothing conclusive.
My amps between the negative wire and the negative post were constant between .035 and .040.
I have also put in a new battery, disconnected both the alternator and starter and did the amps test, cleaned all the grounds and connections and bought a Solar BA9 Battery/Load tester that checks the alternator and starter as well. All of the tests on the BA9 show everything is OK.

As you mentioned that every time the battery is disconnected there would be a shock to the PCM. So how do professionally installed kill switches get around this problem?

I should also mention the PT is a second car and not the daily driver.

Once again JoeX thanks for sharing that valuable info.
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Old 28 Sep 2017, 11:33 pm
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Default Re: Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

Well, now I've been running manual kill switches on both my PT's for a year or so now and no PCM problems yet. Do loose Radio Presets, and clock settings but no big deal to me.





Numerous battery disconnect switches are available from various speed component sales for rear/remote mounted batteries with various methods of activation from cable, lever and relays.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?...y%20disconnect
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Old 28 Sep 2017, 11:34 pm
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Default Re: Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by bob2006 View Post
So after lots of looking and probing I can't seem to find where the parasitic drain on my battery is coming from (2006 PT non-turbo).
As I mentioned in my other posts about this problem, it is only noticeable in cold weather and the cold weather is coming.

So I though I would solve the problem by installing a kill switch in the negative line between the negative wire and the negative battery post.
Only thing is, my daughter occasionally drives the PT in winter so I need to mount the actual switch inside the car.

Anyone have any experience with this?
It is about 4 feet from the battery to the dash so what gauge wire should I use?
How many volts/amps should the actual switch be rated for?
Is there a simpler way to isolate/cut off the battery?
Any opinions, ideas or info is greatly appreciated.
I have heard the Totally integrated power module (TIPM) can be a cause of loss over time.

Disconnected and reconnecting the battery wont cause a voltage 'spike' to your computer, there is nothing to worry about there. The only time voltages can increase to any dramatic effect is when power is removed from a inductor coil winding - and that's how your spark plugs get their high voltages.

I recommend to use #4 welding cable, along with something called a 'night switch' - and better known as a 'master battery disconnect switch'. You will need terminal lugs crimped onto both ends of the cable, and may as well put a new battery terminal clamp on one end.
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Old 29 Sep 2017, 12:16 am
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Default Re: Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Carnut View Post
Well, now I've been running manual kill switches on both my PT's for a year or so now and no PCM problems yet. Do loose Radio Presets, and clock settings but no big deal to me.





Numerous battery disconnect switches are available from various speed component sales for rear/remote mounted batteries with various methods of activation from cable, lever and relays.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?...y%20disconnect
Thanks for the excellent info and the great photos.
I never thought of modifying the air filter to make access for a kill switch.
That's a job well done!
I am OK with losing radio presets and clock too.
So glad to hear that you have had no problems with the PCM.
Thanks for sharing
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Old 29 Sep 2017, 12:20 am
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Default Re: Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by _PTGT03 View Post
I have heard the Totally integrated power module (TIPM) can be a cause of loss over time.

Disconnected and reconnecting the battery wont cause a voltage 'spike' to your computer, there is nothing to worry about there. The only time voltages can increase to any dramatic effect is when power is removed from a inductor coil winding - and that's how your spark plugs get their high voltages.

I recommend to use #4 welding cable, along with something called a 'night switch' - and better known as a 'master battery disconnect switch'. You will need terminal lugs crimped onto both ends of the cable, and may as well put a new battery terminal clamp on one end.
Thanks so much for this informative response!
I am going to look into getting some welding cable and a proper switch.
I have seen some youtube videos on how to attach the terminal lugs to the cable and I am comfortable with doing that.
Thank you for helping me get this problem resolved.
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Old 29 Sep 2017, 07:42 am
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Default Re: Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

I would do this a little differently.

First, this is really a hillbilly way to put a band aid on a problem. The right answer is to find and fix the parasitic draw. However, sometimes the hillbilly fix gets the job done cheaper and faster. At least maybe for while.

Disclaimer out of the way, if you put a disconnect on the negative battery lead, that switch has to handle full battery power during starting. A better way to do this might be to put a "continuous duty" solenoid between the battery and TIPM. This solenoid could then be triggered by a low amp toggle switch inside the cab. I've done this maneuver myself several times on industrial vehicles and equipment but never on a PT. So anybody wanting to grab a banjo, some moonshine and take a wack at this themselves will need to get her done at their own risk. Let I said, my choice would be to find and fix the parasitic draw.

Here's a diagram for the solenoid. The patch wires used can be the same gauge as those cut. Again, this is just an idea for discussion. And this should not impact the CANbus anymore than a mounting a kill switch on the negative battery lead.

RemoteSolinoid1.jpg
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Old 29 Sep 2017, 10:05 am
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Default Re: Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

Didn't I read somewhere that there is a dealer mode switch on the pcm that cuts non essential power when the key is off?
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Old 29 Sep 2017, 10:20 am
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Default Re: Solving The Battery Parasitic Drain Problem With A Kill Switch?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Handy_Cruiser View Post
if you put a disconnect on the negative battery lead, that switch has to handle full battery power during starting.
Thanks for the info.
I imagine it is the same if I put the kill switch on the positive side as well.

I noticed that in Carnut's photos he has mounted a kill switch directly on the positive terminal.

Is there any down side to putting a switch on the positive side versus the negative side?

Thanks again Handy_Cruiser for the alternate kill switch arrangement.
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