What did you do to your PT today?

[rockandroller]

me too! I'm a total noob with all this carwashing tech... what the heck is D/A?

( whatever it is - I want some...)

[Big Jon]

Dual action polisher / buffer, I've used a Porter Cable brand for years. Unlike a hi-speed rotary buffer the only way it will harm your paint is if you drop the machine on you car. I think the drill attachment version looks a lot sketchy.

[rcktpwrd]

D/A = dual action
I have a Griot's Garage 6" d/a with a 25' cord, got a great deal on it a number of years ago... I also have a Griot's 3" d/a for smaller areas.
like this dual action polisher

Many people use a Porter Cable that can be found in the local home improvement store. They can be used as sanders as well...

I use Meguiars buffing and polishing pads and products, but there are many other great products out there...

Porter Cable 7424 https://smile.amazon.com/PORTER-CABL...730771&sr=8-15

[ed9msi]

Originally Posted by Carl48

Yesterday did a quick wax job with some spray liquid stuff. Looks OK for now but really needs the annual clay bar treatment.

Today did some rust treatment. The PT has seen 13 Michigan winters and the underside looks like it. The cars around here usually rot out before they wear out. Found a product called Fluid Film at the auto parts store. It comes in a spray can and contains a non-solvent penetrating lubricant that soaks into the rust and supposedly prevents further corrosion. Have never heard of or used this product before today so time will tell how well it works.

I hear you to a 100%, In Sweden it's the same, they pour out salt on the streets during winter and the cars look accordingly. I got hold of a nice non rusted PT since my wife liked it and me too. So the first thing was to clean it from the underside and fill all cavities with rust preventer some other type on the bottom from the outside. Removed the rear and front bumper and fixed the beginning rust there. Same for the rear and headlights. I mean we searched for a rust free PT for almost a year before we found one so you really get to learn where they rust.

[Carl48]

Originally Posted by ed9msi

I hear you to a 100%, In Sweden it's the same, they pour out salt on the streets during winter and the cars look accordingly. I got hold of a nice non rusted PT since my wife liked it and me too. So the first thing was to clean it from the underside and fill all cavities with rust preventer some other type on the bottom from the outside. Removed the rear and front bumper and fixed the beginning rust there. Same for the rear and headlights. I mean we searched for a rust free PT for almost a year before we found one so you really get to learn where they rust.

The rocker panels rust from the inside out... water and dirt get trapped in there. Behind the front wheel well at the bottom is especially bad spot. See if you can get in behind the small front rubber mud flaps and clean out the accumulated dirt, leaves, and crud.

[Carl48]

Spent the morning doing a clay bar and wax job. Used Mothers spray Detailer on the clay bar, seemed to make it glide better than water. Buffed it with a microfiber cloth. Then went around with Mothers Carnauba wax and again buffing with a microfiber cloth. Lots of work, took most of the morning, but the end result is worth it.

[rockandroller]

Today... took 'Pete' into the local shop, up on the hoist for blacklight dye exam (had a long drive on the weekend since they didn't see anything noticeable friday). Turns out the little oil leak seems to be coming from the pan gasket , but haven't ruled out a crank seal yet ( though my mechanic thinks it unlikely)..
However, it definitely needs engine mounts ( again!) and actually the rad is starting to leak a bit at the bottom welds - likely last week's long-overdue rad flush had flushed away some ancient sealer.
So the plan is to go ahead and do all the upcoming maintenance now: change a couple hoses, do the timing belt/water pump/idler, engine mounts, radiator...

If there is room afforded by all the stuff that will have to be taken apart, I definitely want to have those legendary "fender ground wires" checked ( they are on the driver's side fender somewhere, right?) Not to mention seal up any sensor wiring that might look chafed or flakey!

I'm looking forward to getting another seven years of trouble-free service. Any recommendations for "must do" checks or maintenance, since it's going to be in the shop for a few days ?? Thanks in Advance!

[Carl48]

Originally Posted by rockandroller

I definitely want to have those legendary "fender ground wires" checked ( they are on the driver's side fender somewhere, right?)

Yes, and on my 08 there is also a ground connection on the passenger side fender, hard to see as vision is blocked by the A/C lines and upper motor mount.

Also, take a look at the tie rod ends, front sway bar bushings, and rear watts link bellcrank.

[ed9msi]

Originally Posted by Carl48

The rocker panels rust from the inside out... water and dirt get trapped in there. Behind the front wheel well at the bottom is especially bad spot. See if you can get in behind the small front rubber mud flaps and clean out the accumulated dirt, leaves, and crud.

Yepp, done both of these as well and was surprised how little rust i found in the front lower fender part. Removed the screws and "bent" the fender out about 4 inches to fix everything. Also cleaned the drainage holes in the sills and filled them with anti corrosion gunk where the excess ran out of the drainage holes. Cleaned them again so the gunk wouldn't clog them up.

[rockandroller]

Today... added up the maintenance costs for this week ... tax in, total came to USD 3600.
I think I'm good for the next six or seven years - what all got done?

Complete front brakes (rotors, pads, calipers, etc)
Timing Belt/water pump/ tensioner
Cam and crank seals
all three motor mounts
Radiator
rad hoses
power steering hoses
starter
crank sensor
some sensor wiring and connectors
some ground wires
pcv valve
intake and valve cover gaskets
misc shop supplies...

The really good news is that the chassis is still rust-free and the rest of the drive train (axles, etc) and suspension still check out excellent.

Next up: body, paint, and glass...