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No compression

 
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  • 1 Post By Peterbylt
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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 05 Mar 2019, 11:20 pm
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Tampa Fl
Posts: 22
Default No compression

Was driving down the interstate when the PT lost power and I had to pull over, Engine died and would not start again, Temp gauge did not show over heated, when I tried to restart it swung over fast as if no compression.

Towed it back to the shop, checked for fuel and spark, had both, did a compression check and found, #1: 20psi, #2: 5psi, #3 5psi, #4: 20psi.
Thought the compression tester was bad, I tested it on another engine and it worked without issue.

Pulled the head, found the mother of all warps, with a straight edge across it there was a 1/16-inch gap in the middle.



Poured water into the combustion chambers and the water leaked right through the intake and exhaust valves on cylinders #2 and #3.

Took the head to the machine shop, they straight edged it and said, you need a different casting.

I just happened to have a spare PT cruiser engine that had over heated a few years ago, the issue with this engine looked to be the head Gasket, I took that head back to the machine shop, they pronounced that one worthy and reconditioned it, ground the valves, seals, light resurfacing.

While in the process of cleaning up the block I found what looked like a crack under some bubbled up paint on the Block, upon further examination I was able to see through a port into the water jacket and you could see the same crack on the inside.






What to do now.
I have a newly rebuilt head, I could put it back on the original block from the original overheated engine that has 140,000 miles, I asked about having the lower end rebuilt at the machine shop, parts and labor would run well over $1000.

I looked for used engines, most had over 150,000 miles and cost between $600 AND $1500.

Then I found this on EBAY, Brand new Mopar short Block for my year car, Iíve purchased one of these, Iím now waiting for it to arrive.


https://www.ebay.com/itm/253420883499

New short block and reconditioned head, should be just like a brand new engine.

Meanwhile Iím pulling the old engine and transmission out.

Iíve just encountered an issue where the Half Shaft on the passenger side will not pull out of the transmission.

Tonight I will be trying with two people and two pry bars, anyone have any suggestions?

Peter
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Old 06 Mar 2019, 02:17 am
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Location: Abbotsford, British Columbia.
Posts: 718
Default Re: No compression

You need a special adapter and a fairly heavy-duty slide hammer in order to remove most FWD cv axles. Because they attach inside the transmission differential with an internal clip. I recall however that the passenger side was bolted to the engine and there wasn't a clip on it. However the automatic transmission may be different. Anyhow, often times prying and such doesn't work because it does not create enough of a shock load to dis-lodge the shaft. It depends on how much effort and time and potential injury to yourself vs the costs of buying and using the proper tools. Keyword OTC (7509) Inner CV Joint Puller

If the slide hammer weight doesn't do justice I've seen the alternative of removing the threaded end adapter and using a 45lb olympic barbell weight just ahead of the existing slide weight.
And if that doesn't work, you need to heat up the CV shaft with a large 'rose bud' flame from an oxygen-acetelyne tank combination, get it smoking hot, that should break the rust and then go back to the slide hammering.
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Last edited by _PTGT03; 06 Mar 2019 at 02:23 am.
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Old 06 Mar 2019, 03:36 am
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Default Re: No compression

There were a few changes on the heads for different years.
Never had a problem removing half-shaft, pry next to trans with a small bar and they pop right out in one piece.
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Old 06 Mar 2019, 06:29 am
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Default Re: No compression

Peter; The machine shop was correct by not rebuilding the head. Think about the alignment of the camshaft bores!
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Old 06 Mar 2019, 12:15 pm
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Location: Tampa Fl
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Default Re: No compression

Yes, I agree that was the correct call by the machine shop, I figured that was what they would do.

I had a friend pry on the back of the CV joint from above, I pried from below and it popped right out.
The transmission is a manual Transmission.

That was the last thing I needed, unbolted the transmission mount and I was able to drop the engine and transmission down with the Motorcycle jack.

Now I have to jack the car way up, so I can pull the engine out from under it.



Peter
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Old 07 Mar 2019, 09:32 am
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Default Re: No compression

A cribbing project is in the making! Make sure to raise the whole car the same amount. It takes more wood or concrete blocks, but it's worth the effort. Things line up much easier when it's all level instead of at a 45 degree angle.
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Old 07 Mar 2019, 10:02 pm
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Default Re: No compression

Stupid question:

Is there some reason you can't hoist it from above?
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Old 10 Mar 2019, 04:32 am
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Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Tampa Fl
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Default Re: No compression

Quote:
Originally Posted by GotToGo View Post
Stupid question:

Is there some reason you can't hoist it from above?

It is easiest to remove the engine and transmission as one piece.


It will not fit out the top, must be dropped out the bottom.


Peter
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Old 10 Mar 2019, 07:25 am
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Location: southeastern PA
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Default Re: No compression

Thanks for the post. I was looking at mine, wondering how the engine would come out (idle curiosity, but it does have 141k miles on it), now I know how the engine comes out.

I clicked on the ebay link, interesting info, now I'll get bombarded with "do you want to buy an engine" ads.
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Old 10 Mar 2019, 10:22 am
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Default Re: No compression

Got it, thanks!
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