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Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

 
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Old 21 Apr 2019, 04:22 pm
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Default Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

Yo! me again!

Firstly. my shocks and struts are pretty much totally shot. I see an affordable set on Amazon that I am thinking of getting. But I am just making sure I dont need any special tools to change them out. Online videos seem to show y ou can jsut jack the car up, and swap them out. (the front pair have the spring included and installed already). But I hear there may be issues with alingment as well?

Secondly, I get some slight vibration side to side in the steering wheel and some slight shaking in the car as well. is this due to the shocks and struts, and changing them will fix it?
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Old 21 Apr 2019, 05:19 pm
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Default Re: Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

1. Likely all your issues are not just shocks, but some front end parts. (control arms bushings, etc.)

2. Front shocks are called "Struts" and require a special tool/effort to compress the springs before placing. Doing it as a rookie could be dangerous to your health! You can probably rent or loan the spring compression tool at an auto parts store.
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Old 21 Apr 2019, 05:23 pm
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Default Re: Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

Strut assemblies are straight forward to replace. The two bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle are good sized, a 1/2" drive breaker bar and torque wrench are in order. Have someone on hand to help guide the new strut into place and start the nuts holding the strut in the engine compartment. Follow service manual torque specifications and have the alignment checked after replacing the strut assemblies.

Shocks are the standard fare. Couple of bolts out, couple of bolts in. The only problem is if you encounter grumpy, corroded hardware.

You'll be fine.

Last edited by RickinPA; 21 Apr 2019 at 05:28 pm.
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Old 21 Apr 2019, 06:58 pm
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Default Re: Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

Quote:
Originally Posted by soonercruiser View Post
1. Likely all your issues are not just shocks, but some front end parts. (control arms bushings, etc.)

2. Front shocks are called "Struts" and require a special tool/effort to compress the springs before placing. Doing it as a rookie could be dangerous to your health! You can probably rent or loan the spring compression tool at an auto parts store.
The struts I have have the spring with them already!

Quote:
Originally Posted by RickinPA View Post
Strut assemblies are straight forward to replace. The two bolts holding the strut to the steering knuckle are good sized, a 1/2" drive breaker bar and torque wrench are in order. Have someone on hand to help guide the new strut into place and start the nuts holding the strut in the engine compartment. Follow service manual torque specifications and have the alignment checked after replacing the strut assemblies.

Shocks are the standard fare. Couple of bolts out, couple of bolts in. The only problem is if you encounter grumpy, corroded hardware.

You'll be fine.

I may have a breaker bar already. Though do you know what size bolts it has? Dont want to find out that I dont have one that fits

Last edited by Mashuu; 21 Apr 2019 at 07:06 pm.
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Old 21 Apr 2019, 07:45 pm
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Default Re: Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

I don't remember the exact size. If your socket and wrench set includes up to 19mm you should be OK.
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Old 21 Apr 2019, 07:50 pm
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Default Re: Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

Oddly enough, I did this job just today (well, took it easy and started yesterday). From memory, you'll need a 13/16 socket for the lower strut bolts, and 14mm socket for the upper bolts.
I bought KYB struts from Amazon. You can buy cheaper struts, but you get what you pay for.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Removal is easy- pull the wheels, pull the grounding wire (M6 bolt with a 10mm head), pull the lower strut bolts (here's where the 1/2" drive breaker bar comes in handy), pull the upper nuts, and work the strut off the steering knuckle and ease it down and out.

Installation is the reverse, sort of. Raise the strut into place, and install the lower of the two lower strut bolts. Then use a jack under the brake disc to raise the steering knuckle so that the strut raises to its installation height. Use a pry bar at the top of the strut to guide the bolts into place. You can actually push against the brake disc with your knee to jigger the strut around while you use the pry bar to steer things into alignment. This sounds weird, but it works. Install the top nuts, install the remaining lower strut bolt, torque everything to spec, and you're good.

Hot tip: make sure the threaded studs on the top of the strut don't have plastic tubing inserted over them; you'll struggle and curse and wonder why the damn things won't pass through the upper strut mount. Don't ask me how I know this.

I did this in conjunction with replacing the lower control arms and sway bar links. Saved about $1K in labor doing it myself. Pretty straightforward wrench bending (unlike, say, the voodoo involved with changing the timing belt). You have nothing to fear.

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Last edited by SpaceMouse; 21 Apr 2019 at 08:03 pm.
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Old 21 Apr 2019, 08:09 pm
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Default Re: Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

Oh sweet. Thanks for the heads up. I will have to grab a prybar and Bigger breaker bar. harbor freight stuff should work, right?
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Old 21 Apr 2019, 08:28 pm
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Default Re: Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mashuu View Post
... harbor freight stuff should work, right?
For the most part. Thought I did split (in three places!) a 13/16 Chinese impact socket. Ended up using an ancient Craftsman 6 point spark plug socket; it worked just great.
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Old 21 Apr 2019, 08:42 pm
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Default Re: Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

I have a mixture of stuff. 1/2 stuff is mostly Harbor Freight Quinn. I aint a mechanic or anything, so I think Harbor Freight stuff will work OK for my uses.
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Old 22 Apr 2019, 12:13 am
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Default Re: Shaking, rattling, rolling, and shocks n struts

Re: steering shake. I suspect that might be tie rod ends. They get loose and allow slop (free play); that might be the source of the vibration. Lower control arms will give you rattle and clunk as they get loose.
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