New reason to love my pt!

[technobear]

Today i found a new reason to love my pt!
I was adding the keyless power window mod from PTDIY and had to get under the dash to run a power lead out to the power distribution box in the engine compartment. In other chrysler cars (like my old mini van) taking off the panel under the steering wheel involves removing atleast one other panel and several screws.

In the PT you just pull down on the panel!!! IT SWINGS DOWN!! Sweet!! In less than 30 seconds you can have access to a good portion of the drivers side underdash area!!!

I LOVE MY PT!!

[?]

[CREWZIN]

Yea, I saw that when the shop was running the wires for my amp and subwoofer. It looks like almost the entire inside of the PT just pops right off...door edge panels kick panels, speaker panels...just about everything you see just pulls off and snaps back together again.

[quicksilverdon]

If only spark plugs were as easy to change as on other 4-bangers.[:0]

[SRG]

quote: If only spark plugs were as easy to change as on other 4-bangers.

Chryslers got some sort of problem moving air/fuel into the cylenders. With PTs, the spark plugs are through the valve cover as usual(that is usual, isn't it?) But then, they are covered by these massive "fingers" over them, down the front of the engine. In my wife's old 97 Neon, Chrysler had this big plastic air intake starting at the top front of the engine, going over the top of the sparkplugs/valve cover/coil, then down to the air filter box directly behind the engine. From there, a 3 inch plastic tube went around the driver's side of the engine, to, you guessed it!, the front of the engine again!!

[jmack]

Hm...Id love to hear step by step how to do the power window mod!

[quicksilverdon]

quote:Originally posted by SRG

Chryslers got some sort of problem moving air/fuel into the cylenders. With PTs, the spark plugs are through the valve cover as usual(that is usual, isn't it?) But then, they are covered by these massive "fingers" over them, down the front of the engine. In my wife's old 97 Neon, Chrysler had this big plastic air intake starting at the top front of the engine, going over the top of the sparkplugs/valve cover/coil, then down to the air filter box directly behind the engine. From there, a 3 inch plastic tube went around the driver's side of the engine, to, you guessed it!, the front of the engine again!!

I'm told that with the turbo intake, you can get at the plugs without taking the intake manifld off.

[technobear]

its really easy. You can go to PTDIY or:
1.get a "blade" fuse holder from radio shack
2.open your fuse panel inside the car
3. pull the power window relay ( top of block, left hand side, long silver metal thingy)
4. put solderless blade connectors on the fuse holder
5. plug one into the RIGHT slot that you just created by removing the relay
6. on the other solderless connector cut a very small bit off of it ( to narrow the width)
7. look at the bottom of the fuseblock you will see a black box relay, this is for the headlights; next to that you will see where there could be another of these black box relays; as part of this area there is a HORIZONTAL opening ( for one of the tabs on a relay) that is right next to the headlight relay; plug the trimmed end of the fuse holder into that.

Side Note: if you have heated seats, or if you have anything less than a Limited Edition there will be no way to plug into that spot because there is no power going to it. So, you will need to tap into a 12v power supply.

12v power supply:
I went to the fuse block in the engine compartment. there should be several openings where cubes can be inserted. I went to the one for power seats ( since i dont have power seats) and used the male tab (poking up at you *get it? male?*) and ran a wire from that (using a female solderless connector) through the firewall and to the "trimmed " end of the fuse holder that you have been working with.

Entry to the Inside from the outside:
1. raise your steering wheel up all the way
2. grab the panel under the steering wheel at the place closest to the steering wheel itself
3. pull down, it swings away ( sweet!!!)
4. look towards the firewall and to the left a little, you should see 2 cables leading out. one is a conduit of power and electrical crap that we will leave alone, the other is a small cable that i assume is for the hood latch.
5. go to the engine compartment, and look just below and to the right of the master brake cylendar (spelling?) you should see where this thin cable pokes through the firewall and its rubber grommett
6. give this grommett a good shove and push it into the passenger compartment.
7. go back to the interior and pull that grommet to a place that is easier for you to reach
8. Now, take some wire ( i used 10 awg red wire from radioshack) and feed it along the black cable through the small hole ( i had to lubricate it a bit and it was a b**ch getting it through. BUT IT WILL FIT!
9. When this is fed through push the grommett back into the firewall ( this wasnt near as difficult as getting that stupid wire to feed along the release cable!)
10. Once again: connect one endof this wire to the "modified" end of the fuse holder that you have been so carefully working towards getting to use, and the other end to one of the CONSTANT 12v MALE connections on the engine compartments fuse block.

Final touch:
Take the Silver metal relay thingy that you originally took from the interior fuse block and plug it into your newly wired fuse holder ( it snaps in tightly, it possibly might be nice to use some electrical grease). Give it a try! take out the keys from the ignition and enjoy your new power window feature.

Some explanation:
In the PTDIY instructions they want you to look under the dash and find a "pink wire with a thin black line" YOU GOTTA BE KIDDING ME!!! have you seen the number of wires under there!? Not to mention 1. i dont like separating stock wireing looms, and 2. i definetly dont want to direcctly tamper with existing wire.

Running the wire to the engine compartment fuse block may have taken longer, but! its clean, easy to remove, and gives you a new place to tap into 12v power on the inside of the car that dont involve tapping into D/C wires. We all know how they are about warranty work.


*gasp*
i think this covers how i did mine. if you need or want more info just ask.
[B)][:0]

[jmack]

WOW!
I didn't know i would be that involved. Maybe I don't want that after all

[technobear]

It really is easy!!! I just tried to give extremely involved instructions so you dont get "lost".

The jist of it is:
remove the existing window relay and plug one end of a fuse holder into its right side, then plug the other end of the fuse holder into a constant 12v power supply, then plug the relay into the new fuse holder.


but that description lacks severely in detail.

[jmack]

yah.....I think Ill just fly you over techno and you can do it for me LOL!