ARRG!! Odd problem and loose sensor

[Jason_L]

I am having an odd problem.

AFTER my car warms up, it won't idle worth a cr@p. It will only run on a few cylinders when idling and the entire car shakes and often stalls. It shakes so badly that it has busted a muffler clamp weld. I have the following error codes:

P0517-battery Temperature Sensor High
P0633-skim Key Not Programmed In Pcm

I replaced the battery, but it turns out 517 was just a symptom, not the problem. It still is doing the same thing.

Any ideas? I hesitate to bring it to the dealership, as every time I do they only screw things up. I have found tools in the engine bay, incorrect oil being used, tranny linkage not fully connected after a rebuild, etc. This is touchy, as my family owns the place

While under the hood this weekend, I found yet another mechanic screw-up: A sensor of some sort has come loose. Maybe someone can tell me where it is supposed to go?? If you follow the harness of the sensor on the intake manifold (the sensor is close to where the manifold splits into the seperate runners), about 10 inches up the harness you will see where it splits off to another small sensor(?) of some sort (the split is at the upper left hand corner of the head as you face the it). At this split, there's about 6 inches of wire leading to the senor(?) I am speaking of. This sensor has a small metal mounting tab on it. On my car, this is no longer connected to anything and is just hanging there. Based on the wear of the tab, it is clearly evident that the mechanic forgot to mount it back correctly (ie, a bolt through the mounting hole) when the Stage 1 was installed, and merely "tucked" the tab under a bolt and torqued it back down. Not surprisingly, it has worked itself loose. Any clues on what this is and where it should be mounted? I am going to go take a pic of it in a bit so I can show it to the service manager, I will post it if it helps any. Oh - I have tried to ground this on existing bolts and it did not take care of the idle problem.

[quicksilverdon]

I just replaced plug wires this weekend - there's a plug-in on the left side of the intake manifold right about where you describe it separating into individual runners... Plugs right into manifold.
Your symptoms sound ignition - related ...have you replaced plug wires? Very common for them to go bad. don't waste money on stock ones, get Cranes (RAceAndStreet.Com) and they'll last.
Let us know...

[Jason_L]

If you follow that harness to the block, you'll see it splits off and there's another sensor.. where in the world does that other little sensor mount?

I just ordered new plugs and wires this weekend At first I couldn't see how the problem could only be at idle on a warm engine, but now that I think about it starts to make some sense. High temps = higher resistance. Idle = lower alternator rpm's, which probably means more dependence on the battery. If my plug wires are bad, they probably are seeing a lot more resistance, and even more once they heat up, and at idle the alternator just isn't providing enough juice - hence a big load on my battery.
Thanks for the thoughts!
Jason

[wsd0836]

The sensor you described is the noise filter capacitor. It's there to remove any ignition voltage spikes from the electrical system. Reattach the tab to the bolt that attaches the back of the intake manifold to its support bracket.

[OurPTGT]

quote:Originally posted by wsd0836

The sensor you described is the noise filter capacitor. It's there to remove any ignition voltage spikes from the electrical system. Reattach the tab to the bolt that attaches the back of the intake manifold to its support bracket.

Good answer, That's what i was going to suggest.
Your MAP sesnor will make it stumble. Try and blow it off with air.
P0633 is the S1 code. It's always there.