replacing brakes??

[turbonate2003]

Hello, I have a '03 GT Turbo PT and the brake pads are starting to squek on me, I think they might be the front wons. I was going to replace them myself, its been a few years since I changed my own pads but Im wondering if any of you have replaced them and how difficult it was to do. Also if you could give me a quick run down on the DO's and DONT's so I dont make any major mistakes.
Thanks alot
turbonate

[quicksilverdon]

VERY EASY.
Crack the lug nuts.
Jack up.
Take off wheel.
Unbolt caliper - 2 bolts (10mm?).
Caliper will be clamping the disk - I use a BFS (Big....screwdriver) to pry a little to free caliper. Hang the caliper on the Springs - DON't let it hang by brake line.
The old pads should pull right out of caliper.
Take a big C-Clamp and slowly push in the piston into the caliper, all the way.
Put new pads in - check that they don't stick.
Put caliper back on disk.
Tighten the claiper on.

If you got new shims with the pads, they're most likely the ones for the non-turbo and will screech like hell - I just wiped down the old ones - they're stainless steel and are good for life.

The disk will look like a phonograph record with grooves in it - that's normal - unless you feel a pulsing when you apply the brakes, your disks should be good for at least 1 pad replacement.

Once you've done both sides, start engine in park - the brake pedal with go right to the floor. Let it up, apply pedal, let it up, etc, until pedal is firm.
Next, drive to about 50 MPH - apply brakes (not slam on them) and slow to 30 MPH - repeat several times.

Milller Time![^]

[SteelBlueGT]

The only thing I do diferently is I open up the master brake cylinder before using the C clamp and monitor if the fluid will go over the top. I also skinm the rotors if they do have heavy tracks on them but do not pulse when used hard. This wil require a very good machine shop cause most take too much meat off the rotors and render them no good for next time. If you are not happy with the brake dust then use ceramic (pepboys Raybestos for me) pads. The job is very straight forward and not worth what most mechanics charge. Also repack the wheel bearings unless they are permantly sealed type but go light on the excess slop! A little on the axle shaft never hurt but again very light!

[CREWZIN]

Through some new pads and rotors on mind a few months back. Pretty easy to work on. Follow the advise above and you'll make out just fine. One thing: always support the caliper. Don't let it hang by the rubber brake line.

[turbonate2003]

Hello again, I took my car to get a free inspection at a shop and they said that my brake pads are fine and have plenty of life left but the problem was all 4 rotors are bad, this is what they told me...

normal spec for the front rotors is 929, mine was RF=925 and LF=975
normal spec for the rear rotors is 463, mine was RR=438 and LR=438
They quoted me a price of front rotors at $80x2 and rear rotors $59x2 plus $85 for labor.

Do you think that its worth it to pay this price or would I be able to just buy the rotors and install them myself?
turbonate

[grantwildbill]

check moss motors they have a inventory clearance sale 50 to60% off

[SteelBlueGT]

Buy and install yourself easier than pads realy!

[quicksilverdon]

quote:Originally posted by SteelBlueGT

Buy and install yourself easier than pads realy!

Agree.
Once you have the caliper off, there's just 1 metal ring on 1 stud you have to take off, then pull off the disk! (don't bother putting the ring back, it's just there to hold disk on while it's on the assembly line).
Go to NAPA and buy their best disks (they're better steel than their cheaper ones).
I bought all 4 of the best disks and all 4 sets of the best pads (ceramic front) NAPA had for about $300. If you have AAA, show your card and get 7% off.

The brakes were fantastic after I was done.

As to master cylinder - I never added brake fluid - if you ever have, heed SteelBlueGT's advice about watching the master cylinder fluid level so it doesn't overflow - you might have to take some out.

[turbonate2003]

ok, thanks for the advice. Also, the shop said that I would need to have the pads sanded down. Is this true? and is there anything else I should be aware of when I install the new rotors?
thanks
Turbo Nate

[quicksilverdon]

quote:Originally posted by turbonate2003

ok, thanks for the advice. Also, the shop said that I would need to have the pads sanded down. Is this true?

No. Ask them why.