Bye Bye wheel bearings

[Cal Cruzer]

I had to have my driver side done at about 50K, now the passenger side is going bad at 66K. This seems to ge par for the course.

[mjb457]

Again now at 56k miles,,just done at 42k last Janauary with Chrylser paying for a new hub assembly & bearing & me paying $100.00 Now its grinding again...Dealer wants $237.00 to just replace bearing this time since Chrysler wont pay..... private shop wants $215.00 so close in price but why do BEARINGS go so quick ??? Is there something that I can do to get Chrysler to pay again>> Its past the 12 months & 12k miles.... No car should eat bearings so fast..I actually baby this car,,imagine if I beat it!!! HELP CREWZIN>>>>>>

[Damselflylight]

Wow! So this is a pretty common problem. I've got a 2004 Limited Ed. Turbo with 33900 miles that has been totally babied, but I found out yesterday that both wheels need new bearings... at 33900! 50K or 60K I would still be surprised, but at 34K I'm sick to my stomach. The mechanic said that both are very loose, have too much play. My warranty already expired so I have no recourse with the dealership. Any suggestions out there?

I did file a consumer complaint with my Attorney General... maybe we can get Chrysler to do a recall and be responsible for their product.

[CREWZIN]

Sorry fellas, I can't help. I'm coming up to 94K without a single suspension problem and the very first mod I did was lower the whole car with Eibach springs 7 years ago. I thought that might put a strain on the system but apparently not. Maybe I'm just easier on the car? Just put new rear shoes on the rear because I though it was about time but the old ones looked almost new (but I bought the parts anyway so why not do it). The roads here in Florida are really good as we have no severe weather to make pot holes and ridges so maybe you guys have been hitting those kinds of hazards. How bout it?

I know on the United Kingdom PT forum ALL they talk about is replacing the "bushes". That's bushings to us and apparently whatever supplier they use for the overseas cars, use junk as they don't last very long at all.

[JoeHundredAire]

Just had to do this on the driver's side. had to replace the hub since the bad bearing was basically welded into the hub from the heat. Cost me just under $340!
I think I'm going to have the passenger side done ASAP before it goes bad. Then I can save the price of another new hub since that was the expensive part anyhow.

[JoeHundredAire]

This seems to be a common problem. Is there a higher quality aftermarket bearing that will last longer??? If I'm gonna do the other side, i might as well buy someting that will last.

[teahead]

Someone who has done this DIY needs to post instructions w/pics.

It'd really help save us some coin.

[towncrier1]

I too was bitten by the wheel bearing ghost! I'll explain>
I had to have my left front bearing replaced at a cost of $347. My "02 cruiser has 68,000 miles on it.
The mech had "mentioned" some time ago. something about a ground wire connection from my front end assembly and the body of the car.This will cause the wheel bearings to carry current from static electricity to travel along into the front end, causing the bearing wear.
He patched it up but it seems that it didn't help, I need the original strap.

\ Now, About one year later the bearing went. He told me that Chrysler knew about it and
told him about it. Now, get this my local dearlership doesn't even keep the item in stock! I am now special ordering them to be put in my car at a cost of $8 per strap. If this is news to anyone fear not because it was news to me. You might want to pass this along to other owners.
that;s my two pennies

[CREWZIN]

Our PT Guru (MX-5) posted this back in 2003 about ground straps....but nothing to do with wheel bearings. Do you have an exact location???
====================================

There are several ground straps throughout the PT. They are all there for noise suppression. Not only is the radio a concern, but all 9 computers on-board. Don't eliminate any ground straps.

From page 8A-6 of the 2002 service manual:

Factory-installed radio noise suppression is accomplished
primarily through circuitry or devices that
are integral to the factory-installed radios, audio
power amplifiers and other on-board electrical components
such as generators, wiper motors, blower
motors, and fuel pumps that have been found to be
potential sources of RFI or EMI. External radio noise
suppression devices that are used on this vehicle to
control RFI or EMI, and can be serviced, include the
following:
² Ground straps - This length of braided ground
strap has an eyelet terminal connector crimped to
each end. They are located in various locations on
the vehicle.
² Radio Noise Suppression Capacitor - This
component is attached to the throttle control support
bracket.
² Resistor-type spark plugs - This type of spark
plug has an internal resistor connected in series
between the spark plug terminal and the center electrode
to help reduce the production of electromagnetic
radiation that can result in radio noise.
OPERATION
There are two common strategies that can be used
to suppress Radio Frequency Interference (RFI) and
ElectroMagnetic Interference (EMI) radio noise. The
first suppression strategy involves preventing the
production of RFI and EMI electromagnetic signals
at their sources. The second suppression strategy
involves preventing the reception of RFI and EMI
electromagnetic signals by the audio system components.
The use of braided ground straps in key locations
is part of the RFI and EMI prevention strategy.
These ground straps ensure adequate ground paths,
particularly for high current components such as
many of those found in the starting, charging, ignition,
engine control and transmission control systems.
An insufficient ground path for any of these
high current components may result in radio noise
caused by induced voltages created as the high current
seeks alternative ground paths through components
or circuits intended for use by, or in close
proximity to the audio system components or circuits.
Preventing the reception of RFI and EMI is accomplished
by ensuring that the audio system components
are correctly installed in the vehicle. Loose,
corroded or improperly soldered wire harness connections,
improperly routed wiring and inadequate audio
system component grounding can all contribute to
the reception of RFI and EMI. A properly grounded
antenna body and radio chassis, as well as a shielded
antenna coaxial cable with clean and tight connections
will each help reduce the potential for reception
of RFI and EMI.

ENGINE GROUND STRAP
(1) Install strap and bolt to strut tower. Tighten
bolt to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
(2) Install strap and bolt to engine cylinder head.
Tighten bolt to 28 N·m (21 ft. lbs.).
(3) Connect battery negative cable.

HOOD HINGE GROUND STRAP
(1) Install strap and bolt to fender. Tighten bolt to
4 N·m (35 in. lbs.).
(2) Install strap and bolt to hood. Tighten bolt to 4
N·m (35 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect battery negative cable.
MUFFLER GROUND STRAP
(1) Install strap and bolt to rear floor pan. Tighten
bolt to 8 N·m (75 in. lbs.).
(2) Install strap and bolt to muffler. Tighten bolt to
8 N·m (75 in. lbs.).
(3)
RADIO NOISE SUPPRESSION CAPACITOR
(1) Install capacitor and bolt.
(2) Connect electrical harness connector to capacitor.
(3) Connect battery negative cable.
STRUT BRACKET TO BODY GROUND STRAP
(1) Install strap to frame rail.
(2) Install strap and bolt to strut. Tighten bolt to
12 N·m (105 in. lbs.).
(3) Connect battery negative cable.

[CREWZIN]

UPDATE: I did some more searching and found this.....
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I've had to replace both driver and passenger side front wheel bearings on my '02 Limited. There originally was a static strap on each wheel but it was prone to snapping and I noticed after the driver's side bearing went at 70K and was replaced under warranty, the broken strap was removed not fixed. When I asked the dealer techs about it they said it had been installed because of a problem with Neon wheel bearings but the PT didn't really need it. Later at 100.5K (out of 100 K warranty but I got them to go 50/ 50)the passenger's side went. At 120K the driver's side went again. After that I made my own static strap using 8 Gauge Copper wire, hope it helps.
The best test to see if it is the wheel bearing is to raise the front end on to jack stand so the front wheels are off the ground and then jack up the bottom of the suspension at the front wheel to compress the suspension. Try and move the tire in and out, if it wiggles, the bearing is shot.
==================================

I have a strap on both front wheels. You can see it attached to the front strut mounting running up to the round rubber grommet on the inner fender.